Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

Electric Drill Ice Auger


merrier212

Recommended Posts

Hi All, I have a milwaukee hole hawg 7.5 amp drill I am going to use this year as my ice auger in my wheel house. My question is where can I find an adapter to go from drill to a 10" jiffy ice auger? I tried to make one but can not seem to get it welded up with out a little wobble!

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nimrod and Ice Master make one, do not know if they fit a Jiffy though. Just do a big G search.........i am assuming yours does, but make sure the drill has a low and high setting. Also, i know this really does not help a whole lot, but when i looked into this i stumbled across a mom and pop one that seemed to be the best and is supposedly machined for each type auger, have no clue the name or how i got to the HSOforum, but it is out there somewhere.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey Merrier,

YOU'RE GONNA LOVE A 120 VOLT ICE AUGER!!!

That Hole Hawg will work sweet for you! Jiffy's take a lot less bite than a Strikemaster, so I think the high range may work best, but you'll have to experiment with it to see. Having it in high range with about half throttle on the trigger should get you around the right rpm's (600) with no load to drill a fast hole. Low range full bore will give you 300 rpms, which is close to Jiffy legend augers which spin at 390 rpms. Play around and see what works best.

I use a Ice Master adapter for a Strikemaster. Not sure if they use a different size shaft than a Jiffy (owned one a few years ago, but don't recall if it is the same as Strikemaster).

The Ice Master is designed for a hand auger, but you'll notice it starts out with a small shaft with a hole, then steps up to a bigger shaft. I drill out a bigger hole for the bolt and it bolted right into the lazer power auger shaft. I also had to modify the plastic circle peice with a dremel to keep enough clearance between the chuck and the adapter so it could spin.

The bungie cord it comes with to keep the auger attached to the drill (if the chuck loosened up) got caught in the chuck and was damaged. I replaced it with a steel cable and it works much better!

This still has some wobble, especially if you are just hanging it in the air and spinning it. Once your are drilling a hole it is fine.

I also use an 18" extension when the ice gets thicker, it allows me to drill holes with the house up, keeping the slush on the ice, not in the house.

I lower my house and insert the sleeves. Then I put the auger in reverse and flush the holes for 5-8 seconds (with the auger at least to the bottom of the hole) and it gets 99% of the shavings out of the hole!

Make sure whatever you go with (ice master, homemade etc) that you utilize a plate that attaches to your drill. It would sure suck to have the chuck loosen up and sink your auger frown

The ice is near!! smile

Link to comment
Share on other sites

outstanding advice thanks so much... I think I am going to have my adapter fabricated by a local machine shop.. I love the idea of "flushing" out the hole. That will make set up soo easy! We are going to put the house on mille lacs this year probably out of barnacle resort... Ice can not come fast enough!

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • Wanderer, thanks for your reply. I do intend for it to be 24 volt, with a thrust of 70-80. Spot lock is a must (my wife is looking forward to not being the anchor person any more).  With my old boat we did quite a lot of pulling shad raps and hot n tots, using the trolling motor. Unlikely that we will fish in whitecaps, did plenty of that when I was younger. I also need a wireless remote, not going back to a foot pedal. We do a fair amount of bobber fishing. I don't think I will bother with a depth finder on the trolling motor. I am leaning toward moving my Garmin depth finder from my old boat to the new one, just because I am so used to it and it works well for me. I am 70 years old and kinda set in my ways...
    • Dang, new content and now answers.   First, congrats on the new boat!   My recommendation is to get the most thrust you can in 24V, assuming a boat that size isn’t running 36V.  80 might be tops?  I’m partial to MinnKota.     How do you plan to use the trolling motor is an important question too.     All weather or just nice weather?   Casting a lot or bait dragging?   Bobber or panfish fishing?   Spot lock?  Networked with depth finders?  What brand of depth finders?
    • We have bought a new boat, which we will be picking up this spring. It is an Alumacraft Competitor 165 sport with a 90 horse Yamaha motor. I will be buying and installing a trolling motor,  wondering if I can get some recommendations on what pound thrust I will want for this boat?  Also, I will be selling my old boat, is there a good way to determine the value on an older boat ( mid-80's with a 75 horse 2-stroke  Mariner motor)  I will appreciate any help with these questions.
    • Sketti...  not out of a jar either!
    • Lol yeah I watched that
    • I went ahead and watched some of the MLF coverage.  Wheeler didn’t make the cut but the bigger story was the Poche/Avera fallout.   Kinda funny listening to both sides of the story and putting together the scenario, reading between the lines.
    • Yeah we fished like 6 or 7 lakes down here. 
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.