Wild Willie

Hate to say...but I miss being in the ice rod case business. Anyone still selling ReadyRig cases?

Lets say you are making your way to a morning set-up spot. You have about 60 minutes until first light. You have scouted this particular spot a couple of times and have even analyzed it by viewing aerial photos and topos. To your left/west is a big lake with a steep bank that drops straight down to the lake at about a 45 degree angle (for the entire length). The lake is about 1-mile long and your set-up spot is right smack dead in the middle of the length of the lake, about 5 yards from the drop off and 15 yards from the trail. You deem it a great ambush/blind location, because deer heading north up to, or south down from, a bedding area will not see you until it's too late. You can't set-up to the east because the terrain goes up at too steep of an angle. You know deer work the trail in both directions, to and from a bedding area, under a group of cedars, just 75 yds north of your ambush position. There are many secondary escape and travel trails branching off the primary trail away from the lake. Here is where a quick decision was required. You're about 50 yards from the set-up spot, when you notice two sets eye reflections, caused by the light of your head lamp, glaring back at you from the bedding location. They are stationary and do not move. Here are your three obvious choices: 1) Keep sneaking your way up along the trail as planned and hope the deer stay put? 2) Freeze, and back down the trail and locate a good secondary position on the trail? 3) Slowly cross over the trail to your right up a knoll/ridge that would conceal you from the pair of glaring eyes. You know on top the knoll you would be concealed from the bedding area, and have a good look down where the primary trail, secondary trail and a couple of escape routes meet. There would be two 25 yard to 30 yard shooting lanes. There was a slight breeze from the northwest that day. What would you have done?

If I'm still or stalk hunting or staying put for a while in a ground position, like behind a blind, or nestled up against a tree, or sitting in a ambush pocket, I will typically be sitting on my archer's chair. I'm careful to place the detached quiver along with my backpack behind me. I place the fall-back/second arrow propped up on my right hind side with the broadhead down and the fletchings up. I make sure it is low enough that it won't get in the way if I have to turn to the right, yet within easy reach if I need it in a hurry. I use the same strategy when I'm up in a stand. It's a little easier in a tree because typically, I do not have the backpack. I just simply remove the spare arrow from the quiver (which holds four). Then I secure the quiver out of the way and then place the spare arrow on my right hand side, usually with sharp end pointing dow or away. That way I can get quickly nocked again without much noise, motion or effort.

Off while practicing. On to-and-from the parking spot to stand/blind. Off once in position and I always take one arrow out of the quiver within easy reach. You never know when you made need the stand-bye due to an unnoticed missing blade, damaged vane or cracked/broken nock on the one you loaded at predawn. Also, the extra out of the quiver arrow can be nocked up with a whole lot less noise and motion if others follow the lead into your shooting lane.

OKAY HERE'S HOW IT PLAYED OUT THAT BEAUTIFUL AFTERNOON: Like I mentioned at the start of the thread the majestic eight pointer made it all the way down the trail to within 18 yards of my ground blind position. Post rut, but, he was completely oblivious to my position, as every environmental condition you could imagine was in my favor. I'm at full draw, contemplating whether or not to take the full frontal chest shot. Suddenly, but calmly, his nose drops and he makes a soft 90 degree turn to his left. Unfortunately he immediately puts a bush between us and now I have no shot and continue to hold for the proverbial perfect broadsider. In just one nano second I recognize his intentions to continue forward down into a shallow ditch directly in front him. I needed him to freeze immediately, or all hope would be lost. I shissssssshed him (for lack of a better term). He stopped dead in his tracks, but then launches into one of those classic complete and immediate 180 degree about face manuvers. The stare down begins. Seemed like an eternity. Probably only 15 -to- 30 seconds. Nose high. Then low. Then high and moving in a circular motion. So calm out that afternoon I was able to watch the steam from his exhale. Then nose down and he turns to his right (looking back from where he originally came) and then more to his right and then in an instant, with a swift and powerful leap, down the ditch to safety! To patrol, manage and grace his kingdom for one more day! I'm pretty confident I could have hit the mark, but I'm glad I didn't take the shot, no regrets! I'm sure he is too!

Lets say you are setup in a ground blind and are perfectly concealed. All the environmental conditions are perfect as you have done your homework. Then a majestic eight pointer comes walking down the trail. Unfortunately he will not cooperate by offering a broadside look, only full chest front with head/nose lifted high checking for scent. You patiently wait and watch until he stops 18 yards directly in front and level to your position. You are at full draw, with the top pin positioned in the middle of his chest. Would you take this shot?

Hawgman - great looking Brit! Where did you find him? Looks just like mine. I became familiar with the breed 30 years ago down in Missouri and I'm still amazed by their intelligence, athleticism, drive, competitive spirit and durability in the field. As well as their friendly soft nature at home with friends and family members. I appreciate all the sporting dog breeds but have a deep admiration and soft spot for the American Brittany. Choose the right breeder and you will have a great home and field companion to enjoy for many years too come.

Okay - went out today and shot my Parker at my block at 20 yards and here are the results: 1) My 20 yard pin was dead on the horizontal line 2) My 30 yard pin arrows on average hit 6" above the horizontal line 3) My 40 yard pin arrows on average hit 11" above the horizontal line 4) My 50 yard pin arrows on average hit 18.25" above the horizontal line 5) Parker Wildfire XP Bow, 60 lbs, Draw length 29", Beman ICS Hunter 340 carbon arrow, 75 grain field tip, arrow length 30.5", don't know total arrow weight, don't know arrow speed, FOC 8.898%

I'm looking to collect some data regarding arrow trajectory and I'm hoping a few die hard FM archers would like to participate: 1) Setup target at exactly 20 yards on level ground. Indoor or outdoor as long as wind does not enter into the equation. Your bow and pins must be previously sited-in at 20, 30, 40 and (50 yards if you shoot a five pin set-up.) 2) Place vertical line and horizontal line on target (X should be very low on block targets) 3) Shoot at least 6 arrows at horizontal line with your 20 yard pin to ensure you're spot on 4) Shoot at least 6 arrows at horizontal line with 30 yard pin and take average measurement on vertical line from X 5) Shoot at least 6 arrows at horizontal line with 40 yard pin and take average measurement on vertical line from X 6) Shoot at least 6 arrows at horizontal line with 50 yard pin and take average measurement on vertical line from X Post results with bow type, bow brand, poundage, draw length, arrow type: aluminum or carbon, arrow weight, (include field tip weight, fletching and nock), arrow length, vane style and arrow speed if you can get it. I understand there are many more variables involved, but what is listed above should provide enough input for my physics exercise/experiment. Thanks

Please confirm if I understand 2008 Wisconsin Resodemt/Non Resident Archery Deer regulations right: 1) Archery Anterless Carcass Tag: Any Unit Statewide 2) Archery Buck Carcass Tag: Any Unit Statewide except EAB and CDW. Archers need a Buck Authorization Sticker to bag a buck in EAB or CDW zones. Can only harvest Buck with a Buck Authorization Sticker when anterless deer is harvested in same EAB or CDW unit. 3) Anterless Deer Carcass Tag: Herd Control & EAB tag to harvest one anterless deer and necessary to earn a Buck Authorization Sticker in EAB units. Total Resident/Non Resident of 2 anterless deer (one anywhere in the state and one in Herd Control/EAB units) and 1 buck - Right? Appears that in some areas you could take as many anterless deer as you could afford.

Hey MNUser - I'm thinking about committing to hooking up with you, your son and your Britt if you're still planning on making the trip. It would be a 400 mile round trip for me and my Britt to meet up with you. We have a couple of spots close to home we've been hunting, but, we would like to head west or maybe even down south of Marshall while the weather is good and gas is reasonable. Let me know if you are still planning on making the trip.

Hey Brittman - great looking pair of dogs. The older one looks like a twin to my five year-old from Ben's Babe & Ike. I can tell from the photos you have had and will have many great days in the field for years to come. Looking at these pixs makes me want to get out to a game farm this weekend.

I'm also new to archery and just getting into it with a 2007 Parker Wildfire XP package. I like the way it feels and shoots. Plenty fast enough for me, very lightweight and relatively quiet. It came with the site, rest and quiver. My brother, who owns a Matthews Drenalin, shot my Parker a couple of times and liked the way it felt. I'm sure I will eventually upgrade, but for now my (what some would consider entry level) Parker is helping me learn the game. My suggestion to you is the same as everyone else's - shoot it first before you buy. Good luck! PS - I called their customer service about some vibration noise after a month or two of shooting. They got back to me right away with some good tips and info.

Take a look at the Illuminator Glow Jig. Pros: high tech, water activated, 80+ hours, lithium battery, circuit board & LED, also finished in traditional glow paint, and red hook. NO need for continual flashing or recharging. No switches as the lithium battery is built into the resin head, micro circuit turns on in the water and off when dry - huge plus. Cons: bit pricey, only available in one size - weighs about 1/8 oz (actually 3/8 oz in size), currently only available in pink and chartreuse.

You should also take a look at ReadyRig's round thermal tip-up bag. It is the only one I know of that has a large accessories pocket sewn onto the outside of it as well as a strip of reflective safety tape for low light conditions. They also make a standard tip-up bag with the same upgraded features.

Dark Cloud - thanks, good chat...can't help myself from climbing up on the soapbox. Metro Joe - I know where you can find a few of those 28" rod cases. Give me a call if you're still interested.

Thanks for your interest but the Ice Drill and bundled items have been SOLD.

Dark Cloud call 800.477.9920, ext 203

The auger needs to find a new home...will consider any reasonable offer.

I'll take $285 for the whole bundle....would make great Xmas presents. The auger is like new. No dings, no scratches, no rust, and runs great. Still have the boxes for the auger stored in the garage attick.

I just checked my inventory/warehouse spreadsheet and it indicates we stil have 8 pcs of IPCC28. I will ask the folks in our warehouse to take a look and see if they can find them on Monday. Would you want all eight if we can locate them?

I forgot to mention 651.747.6186 is my cell number. You can also call 651.501.9518. This auger new sells between $385 to $399. The value of the bundled items new are: head cover $15, rod case $17, chipper dipper $6 and drift sock $90.

MetroJoe is correct ReadyRig discontinued the 28" Ice Pro ice fishing case about four or five years ago. You might want to check with Cabela's as there may be a few in stock mixed in with thier inventory of 35" cases at one or two of their stores. FYI - this will be the last year for the 35" all black Ice Pro model as well. They are going to continue with the 38" Ice Pro Plus and I heard they have some new stuff on the drawing table for 2008.

Surface Tension is right on the mark. The 3-hp has to meet EPA standards when it leaves the factory. They are calibrated to meet that standard at room temp where they are made, I'm guessing at about 75 degrees. Take that same 3-hp powerhouse out into 0 degree temps and you've got an auger that won't start, idle or cuts out. I read some where that it is not just a Jiffy issue. It is a issue than can happen with practically all 3-hp engines. I think the 2-hp is exempt from this problem, hence the pressure release swith. I also read some where that the thing to do with a 3-hp right out of the box is to: 1) read the manual and do what it says, 2) put the auger in the garage or where ever and let it get cold, lets say about 15 -to- 20 degrees, 3) prime, choke and start engine, let it try to warm-up, 4) the mixture is going to be too lean so turn the idle screw counter clockwise until the engine idles smoothly, 5) now its time to adjust the high speed, hold the auger up above the ground while it is ideling, hit the thottle, if she sputters or cuts out you will need to turn high speed adustment screw counter clockwise just a bit, until you get max/consistent rpm output Most folks don't give the 3-hp (which is a legitimate engine/power house) enough time to warm-up, most assume the 3-hp should be warmed-up and ready to go just like its the 2-hp. That's what I have been told or heard. Good luck!

Like new Jiffy Stealth STX 2hp - 8" ice drill. Only drilled a dozen or so holes the last two seasons. Starts great, runs great, and cuts great. I'm including a used ReadyRig power head cover, new ReadyRig Triad rod case, new chipper dipper and new 50" Wave Tamer Drift Sock for 16' to 18' boats. All for the low, low, low, price of $300. Call 651.747.6186 if interested.