MikeEiden

Well I just bought a Bowtech Assassin Black Ops 60-70# less sight, rest, quiver $450 unregistered so it will have warranty. Only shot a few times. I know there are nicer bows but should be a decent hunting rig and definitely an up grade from the ol' Diamond Rapture. Thanks for help guys, Mike

Never considered the General but will keep an eye for one. Really the only bowtech bows I've shot is the Assassin and I drew back the Destroyer. I've also shot the black ice and a PSE EVO. Each one definitely had it's own draw cycle, none that I didn't think I could get used to, but that's my limited experience so far. Might give you guys something to compare to. I liked the valley and letoff of the Assassin. It did have a little hard role going into the letoff but from there it was nice with solid wall. Blackice was decent at everything also. PSE was what I would expect from a speed bow and really what I'm looking to get right now. Just to many options I guess. Just really looking for a smooth shooter, quiet, and fairly easy to pull and let down in a stand. Oh ya, pulled back the new diamonds and the are not for me. Noticeable humps and hard to let down slow. You can tell they went for speed because that thing wants to send an arrow right now! Well I'm going to keep looking and thanks again for the suggestions. Keep'em coming.

Price was part of it. I can get a NIB 2010 Captain for $490 right now but sure it won't last. I've never shot a CP bow and read many good things. I appreciate the insight on the draw cycle as I have seen others say it is pretty harsh; then next forum people say it's not bad. I forgot about AC! Would be worth the trip anyways to check out the new store. I do appreciate the suggestions guys. Helps to bounce things off you folks. Mike

Ya, I have been to L&M but they don't have any. I did shoot the Assassin and a few others while I was there. I also tried 4 Rivers in Floodwood but they have only 2011 stuff also. I'll give that shop in Hakensack a try. A lot of nice bows out there but wanted to try a few more before buying. Thanks for the reply, Mike

Does anyone in the Grand Rapids area have either of these bows? I've been thinking of buying one but can't seem to find any locally to test drive. I would appreciate anyone willing to let me take a few shots with theirs to see how they feel. Thanks, Mike

To be honest unless you spend some time on the water in a number of different boats you wouldn't really notice some of these details mentioned. It really comes down to what you expect out of your boat. And being a new boat owner you might never know the difference. Like EsoxMag, he thinks Targa's are fine fishing boats but there is some things that could be improved upon; whereas may not have the same complaints. Definitly listen to what people say and sometimes you'll see a trend (such as power, rod lockers, seating, etc) and if that is an item that may be concerning down the road then go a different route. I just looked up the new Targa and I see Tracker has improved their packages some. Before you got a 52-55lb 12V cable steer MG TM. Now I see they offer 70lb 24V PD. And that Lowrance Mark-5x for a basic locator isn't really all that bad. The Hummingbird that came in my 2001 has pixels similar to Super Mario Bros and a screen size of an I-phone. Anyways, for a fishing ready package 18' (19'1") boat for around $20K new isn't to bad. Again, I've fished in a number of other boats and there are some nice rigs that offer more stability and possibly better built but it has never been a landslide. And once I see the price tag the boat envy stops cold! If you can wait till summer maybe you can test drive some rigs or meet up with others and fish out of their boats. If anything take along a group of friends that own boats and have them pick out stuff they like and dislike. You may not have notice these items on your own. Then weigh your options that are most important and get the big dollar items you want/need up front. Like Greg has said a few times. Don't do what I did and say it will be good enough. Btw, the head spins stop when you're running across the lake in your new rig!

Each brand will have its share of issues. As for Merc they are a good motor. Factor in how many of them have been sold over the decades and you'll expect to hear a few more horror stories. Plan ol' statistics. I have 2 buddies right now that haven't been able to hardly use their boats the past two summers because of powerhead failures on the Etec. One is a 90hp and the other a 50. Greg there were many reason why I went with the Merc 4-stroke. First off the price was far below other brands. T&M Marine had the best prices I could find anywhere. The 4-stroke went for $7500 and the Opti was $7100. I was going to put an Opti on it but they were backordered and the wife really wanted the 4-stroke for quietness. Also since I had a Merc on my boat I didn't have to change controls or wiring harness. After everything was said and done with my trade-in (which I got a fair price) the upgrade cost me $6000 which I did put back on the loan. I still owe less total than what it would have costed me to buy another brand. Even if I was to factor in the kicker and Terrova. I wish I could have the Opti performance but the 4-stroke isn't that bad. Just not what I first expected or wanted it to be. By the end of the season I was really enjoying my 'new' boat. As to the orginal poster, I drowled over the Superhawk and Trophy when I was looking to buy. Layouts are nice and great stable boat. Good luck finding your new ride!

BoxMN makes a good point. My new outboard is a Merc 4-stroke and regulars on this forums know the trials I went through in prop selection and trying to get to the point of being satisfied with its performance. And I still think more can be had from it. Because these motors need to be spun a little higher than the 2-strokes there are trade offs with hole shot vs. top speed since you have to prop it more for one or the other. I've grown to really like my new motor but after going from an underpowered rig I wanted some performance and it just wasn't what I expected at first. The family really appreciates the quietness and its really smooth running.

Well it wouldn't have paid for a Lund I was in his same shoes when I bought this boat. I'll share a little more on how I ended up with this boat because I'm sure he can relate. When I was looking any 'namebrand' boat with a 90hp or bigger was over $12K even if it was a 15yr old Lund. I didn't want to pay that much for an older outboard and inherit any issues they may have been dealing with. Motor problems will ruin any experience no matter what its bolted to. Well this Tracker boat was 4 years old in mint condition, and had 49hrs on the outboard. Which doesn't guarantee there wouldn't be any problems but it reduces the chances of having to deal with motor 'fatigue'. The package met my needs and I knew it was a little underpowered but the guy claimed it did 36mph and that was plenty for me and these smaller lakes I fished. It actually ran 34 on the gps suprisingly. And it was thousands under everything I looked at. Bought it for $9K to be exactly. The boat and outboard was very reliable and worked fine (for many years) for me and one other but with the wife and 3 kids it was to gutless for my likings. Also that cable steer TM I had meant I was stuck in the bow so it made things more difficult to take the family fishing. Anyways, it was almost paid for so it was a far better choice to upgrade the big motor and other options than to look for another new or used one. Trust me, I looked at new boats and they are spendy. Now I have a boat thats in great shape with brand new power supplies for far less than I could have found anywhere. Yes I had to upgrade which hopefully this person can avoid. I did so for personal preference but was not required. If you could find a Targa with at least a 90 but would recommend the 115 or bigger for a reasonable price I wouldn't hesitate to check it out. It's difficult to purchase something that has all the options you want up front, especially when you haven't had a lot of experience and are not quite sure what you want or need. So some upgrades could be expected at some point in time. Again, don't buy a boat just because its a Lund, Alumacraft, etc... look at the whole package and especially the outboard which is the spendy part (I should know!). They're only as good as what pushes it.

I own a 2001 Tracker Targa 17WT (bought used in 2005 and my first boat) and its a good multipurpose boat for the money. Many people are really impressed with it when I take them out and they own lunds and every other brand so that has to say something. I keep it covered and stored in a garage so that helps with keeping it really good shape. As mentioned they draw you in with their baseline packages (under powered motor/TM, cheap graph). Even if you are not a serious fisherman don't settle for less than adequate equipment because you will regret it later. I bought my boat used with a 75hp (rated up to 150) and it had a 52lb TM. It was great for a couple of years but the lack of power limited my fishability and made things frustrating at times. I repowered it with a Merc 115 4-stroke, 80lb Minnkota Terrova, and 8hp Nissan kicker; so some significant upgrades and fell in love with it all over again. Point being is its the same boat but fishes much better (like a whole different boat) so give these other items just as much consideration as what type of boat. All of these brands of boats will meet your needs just fine so just find one with the features and layout you want and DON'T SKIMP ON THE POWER. Tracker is a fine boat, the other ones mentioned I do agree are better to some degree, and if you are buying new I will say I've heard Tracker has horrible customer service. Good luck on the new boat.

Thanks tipup. When I was looking at a different sled it required to buy a stronger bumper that must bolt more securely to the tunnel. I wasn't sure if it was the same for this Polaris. Bumper seems solid to me but wanted to make sure. Thanks again Tipup for the response. Mike

Just recently picked up an 05 Polaris Switchback for fun and towing a fish house. I was wondering if I have to install a heavier duty hitch/rack or can I just install the 'hinge' hitch to the existing bar. Towing an Otter Lodge house if that helps. An info is greatly appreciated. Thanks.. Mike

One difference between the two is how the windows were installed. Clams are stitched in while the Eskimo has velcro all around it keeping it in place. I thought this was a nice feature on the Eskimo. If my windows ever crack or get damaged then I can buy a replacement piece and just slap it back up. The velcro is wide and strong so no issues with it falling out/off. Other than that I think the Clam had a flap that covered the zipper while the Eskimo is exposed. Not a big deal normally but if you're out in blowing snow that can get packed into the zipper and freeze up on the Eskimo's. Never happened to me and fortunately there's two doors but its something to think about. It's been a while since I've compared the two brands so check them both out closely next time you're out window shopping.

Funny, I was just at Gander looking at the Frabill Predator. The overall package seem good quality and as you said it seems they've come a long ways. It was a little more narrow than the Lodge but the seats were very comfortable and the sled appeared to be well built and deep. The only thing I'm not sure about is the slope of the front of the house. Problem being is the tent gets in the way when your holes gets to close to the edge. Fished out of a house that had a steep angle a long time ago and most of the fishing area was useless at best. The Frabill is not as steep as this sled but its still farly sloped. I was definitly impressed and thought 'oh boy another sled to condisider'. The Predator was $649 at Gander so $50 than I can get the Lodge for. Thanks and keep the opinions coming... I know everyone has one!

I agree! Plenty warm on most days with just one heater. I rarely have more than one heater going but then again I don't get cold to often so I guess it comes down to personal preference.

Sorry for asking about flip-over houses again but after pouring over the previous threads I still have a few questions. My initial thoughts for a new house was the Clam Yukon as I was looking for a two man/ large one man. Well then I thought the additional head room of the Voyager would be nice so I started thinking about that sled. Well now I'm up to the Otter Lodge (I know many of you can relate to this!). Ok here's my question: I will be pulling with a snowmobile, either trailering to the lake and using the snowmobile from there or there are some local lakes that the snowmobile trail passes by. That means anywhere from 20-40 mile round trip roughly. How are each of these sleds for longer towing trips? I would also like to hear any of your experiences with these houses. I figured the Otter would be the over all best but it is $150-170 more than the Voyagers and $250-270 than the Yukon. I would like to say I fish a ton but it just doesn't happen. But I do keep my equipment for life so that's why I ended up working my way up to the Otter. Is the Otter worth the extra cost? Any extra info (especially on poles, slides, house hardware, etc) is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Mike

I purchased the Baffin Barneo last year and they are awesome. Very light, comfortable, great traction, and very very warm. I like the fact that when I do wear them on slightly warmer days (20-30's) that my feet never sweat or get hot. They are just comfortable all day long. I was able to find my for $99 and well worth it.

If you order from Gander Mtn online there is a coupon code "MYCPN5" that will take off $5 for every $50 spent plus free shipping as always. So there is some savings there to be had. Right now there is a $25 rebate on the Showdown 5.6 and with this coupon code puts it at $295. I would also recommend the Marcum VX-1P if you want a flasher. I bought the VX-1 when they first came out which I still currently use. For the money very good unit, no problems, and sorry to say I like it much better than the FL8's especially for botton hugging 'eyes and crappies. I really like zoom mode and both models gives you those features. As said lots of good units now you just have to see how you can save a few bucks.

I'll throw in my 2 cents as well. The Lindy Darter has a more subtle action than the chubby darter. I've watched both plenty on my underwater camera trying different types of rod manipulations. Not saying that, they are so different that I almost wouldn't compare the two of them. To me the Lindy darter more resembles a jigging rap but has some wobble and rattles. Just because it returns to the center so quickly after swinging out. And everyone knows how well jigging raps work so theres' no doubt the lindy darter will work for me as well. I like how easy I can get that wobble on the rise and fall with the chubby darter. Small quivers with the rod and I can get it do its wobbling action without much change in height. And the hit is almost always a thud for me. As mentioned once you rip them and let them fall out to the side it takes longer for them to return to the center. At first I was disappointed with the lindy's action but after some time I see its potentional (jigging rap style) and try not to compare the them to my salmo's. A buddy of mine had great luck on Lake Winnipeg with the Lindy's last year and not much on the Salmo's. So there's a time and place for both.

Because the water is fairly uniform (O2,temps, etc) that time of the year the fish can be anywhere from top to bottom. It just depends on what forage those particular fish are following. Fish that are focused on ciscos can be on top of rock reefs, where the ciscos spawn towards dark, on the breaks, or over open water chasing. Perch and panfish will school outside the weed edges and slightly out over open water also. These could be the fish you have been contacting. Suckers also make their own movements and have a "following". Not all fish are doing the same things so each technique will work for you. I will troll if there is a large amount of structure to cover and I want to cover area and contact as many fish as possible. I look for bait fish on my electronics to give me a starting point on what depths to run my lures. If I cast breaks I do like you mentioned with bumping bottom occassionally during the retrieve. I like doing this over weeds as I don't get hung up like in rocks but where trolling these areas will result in fouled lures to often. Good luck....

I'll throw in my experiences as well. My wife bought me the Ice Armor gloves with the longer cuffs for a gift. First time out I was pulling up my underwater camera and wrapping the cord around the monitor. After 15' of cord the palms of my gloves were frozen stiff and my hands wet. I contacted Ice Armor and they were friendly and helpful and sent me another pair of gloves which arrived on a 2 days later. These too soak up any moisture they come in contact with. I'm going to spray them with some water repellant and keep them as spares. They are not very warm either. But the customer service was outstanding and I have other products of theirs that work well; just not these particular gloves.

Here's a "thought" on it Jax.. sorry no concrete science to back it up. But my first thought was energy loss with mechanicals. Not just deployment but with the really large cutting diameters the steep blade angle (like 2-blade rage) also takes more energy to penetrate. Think about how you cut foods or anything else. That's why companies like rage decided to create a lower KE deploying head for certain situations and bow setups. Big game requires more energy to penetrate deeper due to tougher hide, more muscle mass, and large bone structure.

As mentioned anything can happen and unfortunately it did for you and BB. I only started bow hunting 3 years ago and went through the long process of choosing a broadhead. I have many friends that shoot Rage and like them but I ended up going with G5 Strikers for a number of reasons. First off, I wanted to minimize the number of variables of something going wrong being that I am new to the sport. I read about deployment issues on a number of mechanicals for a variety of reason based on many hours of reading reviews/forums. Next I read enough reviews of people damaging aluminum ferrules to the point of poor penetration or at least not reusable. So I figured why not just go with a steel ferrule. I also wasn't a fan of tiny screws and rubber bands so the Rage were looking less and less attractive; except for the gapping holes some are posting! I guess where I'm going with this is there a number of ways for things to go wrong and going up in game size will only increase murphy's law even more. I can only assume this is why the guides are leaning towards fixed blades. Shoot what you are most confident with...

I have most confidence in cranks and jerk/pull baits in cooler waters. I don't throw much blades during mid to late fall. I may throw a heavey spinnerbait early fall. Lure choice depends on depth I need to achieve. Here's a typical line up for me: Jerkbaits - Weighted Suicks, Big Daddy, Bull Dawgs/Rubbers, Phantoms, Hellhounds, Sq. Burts. Crankbaits - Slammer deep divers, Ernies, Triple-D(really like this lure), 9" Grandma, Cisco Kid, 10" Believers, Depth Raiders, and new this year for me the X-Hawg will some playing time. Nothing fancy but I seem to keep going back to them. Lot's of good options out there to choose from.

I've had less favorable experience with the .040 blades and getting them to start up right away or keep them turning when slow rolling. Sounds like you've had better luck than I have. Even though all these blades (DC-10, DCG, Muskie Customs) are the same thickness (.025) each have different levels of resistance. I think its blade shape/flatness that affects this more than thickness. I have an Inhaler and Tackle Industries with .040 that pull like a set of #13's. So you just never know what to expect. The ribbed blades from Muskie Customs actually reel in nice had lessen the amount of drag even more. I prefer something that will keep turning and not wear me out so I'm really liking these blades more and more. Tackle Industries has a .030 blade on their baits now so that's another option. I haven't used one of those yet. Personally I wouldn't get hung up on the vibration thing or blade angle; each bait is different than the next and tough to duplicate. That's why you get those 'hot baits' from time to time. Besides fish have been hitting blades of different size and shape for decades. good luck and let's see some pics of those new baits when you are finished with them.