Wavey Davey

kfk, The DNR did nothing to stop the evasive species from being here in the first place. Now that they're here and spreading, this is their attempt to slow it down. I am not against educating boat owners about how they can help do that. It's the way they want to do it. If you're pulling a boat and the drain plug has been removed, trailer is free of weeds, etc., they have no reason to pull you over, period. The majority of people know the laws and abide by them. The time and expense used on this could be better spent on researce to find ways to remove or eradicate the invasive species now here. (I see "muscles" in my original post should be "mussels"...)

Not only is this the stupidest thing I've ever heard of it's against our constitutional rights and singles out boat owners. Pull you over for no reason other than towing a boat? Where's our freedom? Guilty before proven innocent? What about the car next to you that doesn't have to pull over and has a trunk full of over the limit fish? This is not fair or right. Where was the DNR when the freighters brought zebra muscles into Lake Superior, did they stop them and make them clean them off? Too little too late that's for sure. This is going to be one big pain in the rear, waste everyone's time and taxpayer's money and will not stop the spread. What a bunch of carp.

The 3-wheeler is good for up to 8" of snow or so. I have chains for it that help with traction on bare ice. It's good for early and late ice. Mid-season when the snow is deeper I use a snowmobile.

Tried to send private message but you're "over the limit". Try Cowboys Cycle in St. Cloud. Email me and I will reply. Dave dkuder@chcmn.net

There'a a place in St. Cloud that is really good with Honda 3-wheelers, both parts and service. I don't think the forum rules will allow me to post it here, so reply if you want me to email you the info. I have the same wheeler as you only it's a 1983.

You guys probably spent more on just a couple of tires than I did for my vintage rig. Honda's don't get old, they just go faster! Beats walking...

Minnesoata DNR HSOforum has a map that's updated once a week. I'm sure there are other sites too, like the U of M climate site.

The left handlebar lever and the right foot lever both work the rear brake. The right handle bar lever is the front brake. I don't use the brakes much, usually just downshift. I'd suggest fixing the brakes though in case you need to stop QUICK!

Add me as another who has an '83 185S. A few years ago I was in the same situation as you, got it for ice fishing. Works great early season and late season, but mid-season when there's a lot of snow on the lake it can be tough going. Ended up buying a snowmobile later on so now I got it all covered depending on the conditions. You aren't by chance using the handlebar brake lever thinking it's the clutch are you? That would explain the "jerking" when downshifting. I used to ride a dirt bike and it took some time for me getting used to 3-wheeler having the brake lever where the clutch lever on a motorcycle is. There is no clutch lever on your 3-wheeler, just let up on the throttle and shift. May be a dumb question but had to ask... P.S. - A tip on your Honda if it's going to sit a few weeks without being run. Drain the gas from the carb. There's a screw on the side of the bottom of the carb, shut the gas valve off below the tank and turn the screw. Might seem like a pain but it's easy and will save you some headaches. With the gas they have now days, the carb gets dirty/gummed up easy and will need to be cleaned more often than you would like.

The bilge pump worked fine for a couple years after being replaced. I had it done, didn't do it myself. When I had the problem checked this spring, the mechanic took it apart to make sure it was working freely and nothing was stuck in the impeller. It could be a short somewhere causing the breaker to trip. I don't have to use it that often, but when I need it I want it to work.

Valv, thanks for the info. I thought that might be the case for removing them. I tried to turn the black plastic ring by hand and it didn't budge, guess I'll have try a little more force. Once I remove it I'll know what amp it is now and then step up in amps. Your description is right on, white button. Figured Sylvan or Smokercraft must be similar, I believe that's who made Northwood. Will be this weekend before I can get to it again. I'll let you know. Thanks.

I have a 1992 Northwood that has what I would call a breaker panel on the dash for the electrical accessories instead of a fuse panel, factory original. Above the toggle switches are "breakers" which pop out and then you push them in to reset. The problem I'm having is that when I hit the switch for the bilge pump the breaker trips all the time. I had a marine mechanic check it out this spring and of course it worked fine for him at the time. He checked the bilge pump and it was OK. The bilge pump was replaced a few years ago and he said it's larger than the original and may draw more power. He suggested installing a higher amp fuse and that should solve the problem. Well, I far as I can see there is no fuse, just the breaker. I can't figure out how to get any of the switch/breaker panel apart or remove it from the dash without removing the entire dash which would be a real pain. Although there's not much room to work behind the dash, my plan is to remove the wires that go to the breaker, bipass it and wire in an inline fuse instead. Doesn't look easy due to lack of room to get at the backside. So, any input or suggestions would be helpful. Wondering if anyone else has this type of breaker system and has dealt with it before. Thanks.

Camper is gone, Basseyes got it. Elwood, thanks again for posting pics. Dave

Basseyes, still have it. Shoot me an email dkuder@chcmn.net

P.S. - If someone who's better with computers than me knows how to post pictures here and would be kind enough to do so for me please let me know. Thanks. The camper is not junk, would make easy convert to ice fishing shack.