Jump to content
  • RECEIVE THE GIFTS MEMBERS SHARE WITH YOU HERE...THEN...CREATE SOMETHING TO ENCHANT OTHERS THAT YOU WANT TO SHARE

    You know what we all love...

    When you enchant people, you fill them with delight and yourself in return. Have Fun!!!

Sign in to follow this  
ts_hunter

Tower blind / deer stand question

Recommended Posts

I am building a 6 x 6 deer stand that is 6'2" on one side sloping to 5'8" on the other to give me a slanted roof for rain to run off. The floor is built with 2x8 lumber and OSB for the floor, walls are OSB and 2x2 lumber. My question is this; I am planning on treated 4x4 legs supported with 2x4 cross braces. Would it be a bad idea to NOT bury the 4x4's down 4' into the ground? I was planning on doing this, but it would sure be alot easier to just let it sit on the ground with a few extra bases right at the ground. I don't really care about it coming out of level eventually because of frost/heaving. This guy on youtube looks like he just sat his on the ground....but wouldn't a strong wind blow it over...or is it heavy enough?

What do you guys think.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I know of guys that have got by with doing that in the woods where the wind isnt as strong but if you are planning on having it out somewhat in the open I would probably put them in the ground. A 6 x 6 is a good sized stand and im guessing your going with at least 4 foot walls, thats alot of area for wind to catch. We have a box stand similar to the size you are talking, no roof just 4 foot walls and it is out in the open. If you get a good gust of wind you can feel it shake a little and ours it cemented 4 feet in the ground. I guess it depends on how high off the ground it is too, ours is 12 foot to the floor. I would suggest putting it at least a couple feet in the ground and then just pour in a bag of quick-crete or something to keep it in place.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I used 2x4's for my floors and 2x2's for my walls. had a roof till it blew off. I took 4x4's 20' and got them in the ground about 3 feet. Wish I could have gotten them better into the ground. still pretty high up there and you shake in the wind. If you were to put it on the ground I would put eye bolts. I have seen in cabelas where it's a cork screw design like what you put a rope for a dog in the yard but on steroids. I'd put one of those down in each corner if possible and make it good and tight. We might be doing that to mine this year to snug it up. One fear of going tall is what you build must go up. were lucky we didn't kill anyone and took some clever engineering with a tractor to finally raise the beast. Good luck

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

just drive in some fence t-posts in at angles at the base of each leg. then screw in a lagbolt with an eye in it. secure the fence post to the eyelag with some heavy wire. walla! this way, if you ever want to move it, it won't be such a hassle.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I built a steel base with huge steel well pipe for legs and a heavy base for the floor of the stand. The thing weighs a ton but it is there until the pipes rust to pieces which should be long after I'm gone. I also painted all of the metal area.

I also then run guide wires to stabilize it in case of high winds. After 4 years of use, she is still standing very well and can take fairly high winds before it sways at all.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Right on guys, I went with treated 10 inch telephone poles not dug into the ground, it has been in place since 1983 and the poles are still doing well. Biggest issue before using such a heavy base was the stand becoming so top heavy and tough to upright, so we went with those poles and it has been very solid, in the heaviest of wind it doesn't budge.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you dont plan on moving put it in the ground.

I built a 8x10 last year. 6" posts 14 ft long and put it three feet in the ground. For the roof I just used 2x10s and cut them from corner to corner. Then I attached a 2x4 there is the slope.

This beast is never moving I hope.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I built a 4x6 with walls, and roof. The floor is 12' off the ground. I set it on the ground, and added 2x4 kickers I pounded 4 feet into the ground at a 45 degree angle. It is solid, even during the winds we had this year, and it didn't move too much with the frost.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A couple of summers ago we built an elevated blind near our food plots, and it has been a great producer ever since. We call it the "camo condo", because the final touch was to put treebark camoflauge tin on it. It was a bit "overbuilt" at 8x8, but there's plenty of room for 2 or 3 people, which is nice. Here's a picture:

P1020559.jpg

The windows are 2 feet wide and 1 foot high. The plexiglass slides in grooves we notched out, and with a little weatherstripping, they are a very nice seal.

P1020561.jpg

Entry is through a door in the floor, which also makes for a tight seal, and virtually weatherproof door.

P1020563.jpg

In October, my son shot his first deer out the window shown, and was with me during late muzzleloader when I shot this guy out the same window.

P1020237.jpg

It was cheaper than buying a commercially produced blind, but the downside would be that it's not moveable. Based on the number of great hunts we've had out of it in the last couple seasons, I doubt we'd want to move it anyway.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

we used a old gas barrel stand for mine. Cut the barrel off and built up from there. Attached railroad ties to the bottom of it and dug the ties in a foot into the ground. Well the wind tipped it over twice. now we have Mobile home anchors on the corners with steel cable attached and it hasnt moved since. i would definitly dig the 4x4s into the ground. Posts and anchors on the corners is a good idea too.

From experience, its not fun taking apart, standing up, then trying to put back together busted, warped parts.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

***** UPDATE *****

Went out today with the floor and legs to assemble. We hit rock about 10" down with the power auger (post hole digger). We tried several areas and hit rock everywhere. Now the plan is to lag bolt 4x4's perpendicular to the legs and lay on the ground to keep from tipping, and then pound in t-posts at an angle and secure to each leg.

Kind of disappointing, and alot of work. But it will be worth it in November...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • We are still going to put a piece along the bottom but I’m not a fan of diamond plate so we are going to try some annondized aluminum.    We were going to get some decals for the side but I was starting to like the plain look so we just went with some small things for now.  I think that about wraps up the outside and I think I have to quit for the night people weren’t kidding when they say writing these up takes awhile. I’ll post the inside stuff tomorrow. 
    • Next up was prepping the studs for the VHB tape. I scratched up each stud with a fine wire wheel attached to a drill then wiped clean with isopropyl. We went with 1/2” VHB tape since we got it for next to nothing. Around the windows and some other areas we did two strips of tape to cover the whole stud but most of the studs that were just getting sheeting we did one strip. I would recommend the 1” though it would be a lot faster.  people are not kidding when they say there are no second chance. The corner piece that is sitting inside had to be kicked off and we never even pressed on it. Good thing we had one extra sheet but no more mistakes could happen after that. The place we were working at had a bender we could use to get our corner bends which worked out great.  The windows are from menards. I custom ordered them which turned out to be cheaper than buying the stock jeldwen ones which didn’t come in the sizes we wanted. The first shipment of windows came in and when I went to pick them up two of the 4 had cracked glass and the guy working goes “so you don’t want these?” I was like no I don’t want a broken window. So we had to go and re order new ones. Two weeks go by and I realized I never got an email confirming my order so I went back in to check on the status of my order and the guy said they never got reordered. At this point I almost lost hope in all of humanity but tried to stay calm. Finally got all the windows installed and the siding put on.  We wanted to try and do rounded wheel well so the picture above is prior to trimming the edges.  We tried using the 1/4” HDPE plastic sheets which looked pretty good. The next day when the sun hit that wheel well it expanded out about 3”. I wanted to screw it down and see if that helped control where it expanded but my brother wanted to scrap that idea. We ended up just using some steel sheeting and welded it up. All the corners and seems where water could get in was welded and then the whole wheel well was welded to the wall studs and a little bit of the frame.    Since the wheel well sees a lot of snow and salt we wanted it to be durable. The Berliner stuff you can buy usually doesn’t hold up so we brought it to a guy and had it sprayed. He said it should last forever and if we ever have any issues just bring it in and they will fix if.  I think they turned out pretty good and I think the rounded look is just something different than the traditional square wheel well.    Our door came from FishnStyle in shakopee, they sell firebrand so this is the same door they use. It’s made by a company called challenger doors.   We cut a piece of aluminum sheeting so it would fit perfectly over the white color it came with. We used the thin VHB seam tape to attach the aluminum sheet to the white aluminum skin of the door. Only other thing we had to do was cut our a small hole so the door handle could go through. The whole door is held on by VHB tape and I also threw in a couple of stainless self tappers since the door came with pre-drilled holes.    For the roof we did a one piece aluminum roof held on by VHB tape. I guess I didn’t take a picture of that but we got it from a local semi trailer repair company in Blaine for a couple hundred bucks  The roof trim is 3”x1/4” aluminum flat stock and the trailer lights are mounted to that. 
    • If the price was right and your happy!👍✌️
    • Next up was cutting all the 2”x1” tubing. My brother picked up this little bandsaw off hsolist that worked pretty well. Using sketch up was great, everything could be laid out and you knew exactly what length to cut everything.    Once everything was cut we started welding it up. Built each wall on saw horses and once we got to the last wall we finally had a system down, go figure.    once we got all the walls made we leveled out the frame. Had to add a bunch of weight to the back to try and get it flat. This is where I wish we had a flat driveway. After we got everything good and level we started welding the walls to the frame and to each other.    The next day was the roof. From looking at other builds I thought people were just running one piece of tubing across and just attaching to the two sides but as we found out that does not work. We tried that and the top of each side wall had way to much of a wavy look. Closer look at other builds looks like people made the roof the same as the walls on some saw horses so everything was square and then set it in between all the outer walls. We ended up doing something similar but we turned the inside roof length piece on its side so it was more of a strong back which minimized any waviness of the tubing. 
    • We were "missing" a few pieces of chicken between the time we took them out of the smoker and put them on the grill with the BBQ sauce. They vanished, I swear!
    • Figured I would post me and my brothers build on here since this is where I got most of the information from. Thanks to lipripper for posting his builds and answering questions. I pretty much based the house off of his with a couple of my own tweaks. Im not sure how pictures are posted on this it’s looking like they will all be at the end of my post so maybe I’ll start with one post then keep adding to it so the pictures stay in some order ( I was bad at taking pictures so I probably missed some stuff) So here we go...   The frame is a Berkon 21’ with a 4’ V galvanized. We called berkon and the guy said they had one frame left and it was $700 cheaper than normal price since they were changing something for ice castle so we put money down to hold it then he called and said ice castle needed it but they were going to make us a new one (this was the start of our struggles). Which actually worked out nice since we could move some bracing around and move the hydraulic pump to a different spot. We had them move the back center brace so we could have 3 holes between our couches similar to papabear. We  thought about doing aluminum but the guy at berkon said the weight savings would only be about 700 lbs and I personally don’t like how aluminum seems to get brittle in the cold.  Prior to getting the frame I tried to order as much stuff as I could think of like others have said to do but since this was our first fish house I wasn’t 100% sure on everything. I used google sketch to layout the studs and the windows. Hoping everything would work out as planned. 
    • Spring only for me, when Orioles first return. Mine never get hit much. 
    • Not sure if somebody put a lot of time in to make this or if it was something Arctic Cat made. I could see someone pulling this around Hay Days.Thought it was just to cool to pass up. 
×