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First Wheel House Construction (Advice Please?)


Fuzzbient

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I've decided to switch from a small skid house to a 6.5 x 12 drop axle wheel house next year. I would like advice before I get started. Here's a picture of the frame I'll be building on.

IMG_3486.jpg

So far I'm planning on starting with a floor that will be a sandwich layer of 1/2" pressure treated plywood sheets with 1 1/2" pink foam between the two layers. I'll frame between them with 2x4 laying on their sides.

The walls will be 2x2 studs. I'm torn between plywood siding and steel siding but leaning toward steel. I'll put t&g pine on the inside.

The roof will be 2x4 flat with a rubber roof.

Can anyone share experiences on building their wheel houses and any thing I should avoid or any approaches I should take to make this a success?

I'll post more pictures as I begin the build when the weather warms up.

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Just a couple things I would suggest. My house has foam insulation "sandwiched" between 2 layers of plywood I don't like it. It gets to be so high off the ice 3" frame and 3" of carpet, plywood and foam. If I am not standing over the hole I can't see the bobber. Maybe thats not an issue to you. Next time I am going to use one layer of plywood and spray foam the bottom of the house. Tounge and Groove pine will make your house heavy. Maybe weight isn't an issue for you but if it is I would find paneling with the pine look.

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What's the best source for aluminum siding? Fish house supply?

Great point on the floor height. I've not worked with the spray foam before. Is it fairly easy to apply? Does it hang pretty tight when on the road if exposed on the bottom? For a single layer floor would you use 3/4" or 1/2" ply?

Considering paneling is a good idea too. I have used that really thin t&g pine that is very light, but paneling is lighter.

All great advice guys!

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like thefarmer says you wanna be right on the ice i find myself shoveling snow away just to get closer to it i would just put 3/4 inch treated plywood right on the frame and cut your foam to size to fit in between the frame menbers use spary foam to glue it in there or cut it tight and it will friction fit and not come out mine has been in there for 5 years. paneling will rott faster on the bottom notty pine with a good gloss of laquer over it will last a lot longer in wet conditions. and it doesnt weigh that much more get the 3/16 thick notty pine its rather close in price. i also have a vinal floor and like it alot its dries really fast after setup unlike carpet.Fish house Supply has alot of info and ideas on there sight.I've built 2 drop down fish houses and there is still a few things i would do diferent.

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I used 3/4 inch Green Treat plywood floor. (Bolt to frame with 1/4 bolts as i had a buddy who screwed it to frame and he got screwed as it blew off frame at 75 MPH) I Framed up house 2X2 and ALUMINUM sided; 2X4 roof flat; do ALL your wiring including tail lights. THEN take to the foam guy. Advise them to foam the entire inside and UNDERNEATH the house. The foam will not be disturbed and it will protect the frame from rust. This is the best. I also advise you to make a blue print of your studs and wiring so you know where everything is. Put your 110 and 12v in spots that make sence. Dont forget antenna for radio. I also advise outside lights on all four sides. For the 40.00 it costs it is well worth it! Good luck!

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Ditto on the lights for the outside. We use ours all the time for checking tip ups. I used the sandwich floor method. Since we don't use bobbers, it wasn't an issue. I sprayed my own walls, there's a place in Plymouth, MN that you can buy your own kit. It's alot or work, but saves a little money. We can run off a 20lb tank the entire weekend.

Ask yourself a few questions...

Where will my heater be?

Will I want a stove or oven?

How many bunks will I need?

Do I want a drop down table.

How many holes and where will they go so they are not in the way?

Where will I place my rattle reels so that they aren't in the way?

Where will I store all my gear?

Where will my battery storage be located?

How far away from the walls will the holes need to be so that I can fit my auger into the space?

Buy some fans for air circulation.

Buy a direct vent heater.

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broman,

could you send me some info on the place in Plymouth for the foam? I had my frame done by a local and the rest of the house will cost me almost a grand to the walls and the ceiling. A little much right know. Any info is appreicated. send to goetler2002 at yahoo.

Thanks,

John

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I just built a very nice wheel house this fall and went threw all the same thoughts I used 5/8 treated for the floor wished i woulda used 3/4 also ran the plywood sideways instead of lentgh ways not as strong . also did the rubber roof idea very happy we got two feet of snow on the ice I looked up on the roof and not a single flake. I used a fan forced heater I still dont know about that its nice because it dries the floor real well but that battery has to have a good charge to low of voltage and it wont ignite. I wired interior lights but we normally used a propane lantern it gives off heat and good light. When i got all done I didnt have the floor insulated so I just took some left over foam glued it underneath siliconed the edges I looked last week and every piece is still there now this summer Ill buy a small pack of the spray foam that mixes and put a half inch over the hole works. I had a little over 5000 into mine it adds up alot faster than you think. the door I used a trailer house door very happy.

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Great feedback! I'll go with a single 3/4" for the floor and try a sheet foam layer in the frame glued in with spray foam. I suppose I could have it sprayed later if I'm unhappy with it.

So the screw down floor blew loose for someone? Yikes! The sales guy I bought the trailer frame from said U-Bolts are a good option on the floor as well. Has anyone tried this? For 1/4 inch bolt down, did you use carriage bolts through the wall plates all the way down?

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My biggest advise if you're framing with 2x2's is to build it 16" on center. I built a house 24" on center and regretted it. Tried to save on weight you know.

I have sandwiched all my floors and I've never regretted that. I always use 5/8" plywood on the bottom and 1/2" on the top. I did it once with no wood bracing between the 2 plys and the floor was a little spongy. As long as there's some wood to screw the top ply to you're good.

Spray foam is some awesome stuff, but I feel it makes the house seem a little too air tight (if that's a bad thing), plus sheet foam is way cheaper.

As far as heat goes, I like forced air. Suburbans are better than atwoods IMO. The battery thing is not that big of an issue if you manage it right. I have 2 batteries and keep a rotation going where I have always had enough battery when I needed it.

It looks like your trailer is a pretty good one. Good job on that. Your house will be a joy if your trailer is a good one. Good luck on your project.

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carriage bolts with over sized washers on the wood side. Lock nuts and lock washers under on the steel. I went between the wall studs. Anoter tip PL400 An expreienced FH once told me GLUE AND SCREW EVERYTHING! he is right. here are some other tips.

bunks with drop down table is a must.

i also hinge a table top on one of the walls so you dont always have to set up the main table to eat.

run your 12 volt wire under the benches so you can store your batteries there.

Use catch cover holes

THIN LITES are a must with one LP lamp backup.

position your heater near the door to compansate for the draft.

Position thermostat opposite wall of the heater near your bed

Put a lite under your Top bunk so you can see at your table.

HINGE your top bunk so you can sit comfortably at your table. And make a hook on roof trus so you can fold up bunk for travel and head room.

I recommend 6 holes that way you have extra for camera. (I got 6 in my 6.5 X 12.

If you go with alum siding you will want to glue and screw 1X4's between the studs flush with outside of wall framed 2X2's about 1/3 and 2/3's the way up from the floor. You will screw to these and not the studs.

I got a 3 burner stove that i store under the table. I plumbed a quick connect to the stove and store stove top when not in use. (Or you can hinge the cook top to the wall)

OR pop your e-mail up and i can send pics of mine.

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I don't mean to take this thread off track, but I have to ask crappie kid why he put the 1x4's between the studs an screwed the siding to that. I'm not saying this is a bad idea, just wondered what the reason was.

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I don't mean to take this thread off track, but I have to ask crappie kid why he put the 1x4's between the studs an screwed the siding to that. I'm not saying this is a bad idea, just wondered what the reason was.

No Problem

Studs at 16 or 20" not close enough for screws. Gives uniform meathod of attaching siding and firms up house. Ice castle uses this apporach as well.

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crappiekid > I'd love to see the pics of how you did your shack. You can fire them off to me at: fishhouse at gmail dot com. (I was lucky enough to get that address quite a few years ago.)

So many great ideas. I feel like I'll be building on the backs of giants with all the experience everyone is sharing.

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I would really try not to go white. On lake bemidji there must of been 200 houses out there. The whites were very hard to see I just worry about a snowmobile plowing into it. I went bright red . Blues are easy to spot also Ive seen wear black have a tendency to melt the snow around the house and freeze it down when i built mine I took a 2x6 and ripped it three times its cheaper. You could also try to put a stripe around it.

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