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fishingmedic

Permi Wall question

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Thinking about building a permi and the weight question came up like it should and woundering if anyone has used the alum or galv vs. 2x2 or 2x3 wood studs for the walls? Please give me any and all thoughts.

Thanks

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using the alum or galv can hurt the pocket book.but if you have the money i would go that way to keep it lighter.i built mine with 2x4 walls.but my house is built like a mack truck.its a heavy house but less maintence.

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alum or galvanized is a great way to go but the only draw back that I see is in finishing the walls on the in side all screws or rivets and is condesation going to be a problem. I have built both types and while the lighter weight is nice so is being able to use nail guns for finish work inside. the shack that I built out of gal studs was small and was spray foamed so condensation didnt play as much a factor.

I recently built a spear shack that is framed up with 1x2 ceader and that is very light weight allthou ceader is spendy ,its what I had laying around at the time

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I'd say, take a lesson from RV construction. They use 1x2 in some cases, 2x2 in others. And alum panel sides.

1x2 sounds wimpy compared to 2x4 or 2x3. But once you build all sides and top, secure them together, and then secure aluminum to them all, it becomes really rigid. The strength is in the shape, not the materials. I'd max out at 2x2, which, for me, means cutting 2x4's in half for better strength while getting the weight savings.

Every box I've ever built with cut-in-half 2x4's is just as strong for the intended purpose as a 2x4 box, and at half the weight almost. I'm talking 200 pound guys sitting on and standing on and passing out on them. I'd use full 2x4's for window and door headers, and baseboards and corners, 2x2 on the rest.

I'd do aluminum, like the RV builders. Paint will stick real nice to it. Galv steel is hard to get a good paint bind on and is heavier. You can go rather thin on the aluminum and still get a lot of structural strength when fastened frequently to the 2x2 framing.

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Thanks Guys, yes condinsation is a factor but I was also going to do the HD spray foam wich would solve 99% of any problems. With the spray foam I was also going to run some flex conduit in a few areas that way if need to change some or add some wires it would be easy.

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2x2s. Then when you go to insulate, use the 2 inch pink solid foam. When you "snap" that into the space between the studs, it creates a very solid wall. Very strong and light. No need to go with 2x3.

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As for the wiring and all... once its all together, just take a router and remove the necessary space to insert your wires. Cut through the insulation as well as the studs.

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As for the wiring and all... once its all together, just take a router and remove the necessary space to insert your wires. Cut through the insulation as well as the studs.

That's what I did. I took a 3/4" or 1" router bit and sunk it in about 1/2" to run the wires. I went through foam and studs, laid the wire, then taped the wire in with masking tape. Worked like a champ!

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if you're going to rip 2x4's make sure to use them right away after ripping them. otherwise they will warp.i'm sure you know this already. but sometimes small details get over looked. got side tracked with another project and made this mistake doing a complete camper conversion.

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I would not use steel or alum. studs. If you do you will not have a thermal break and you will get condinsation even if you use spray foam. The faom will not stop the transfer of the cold from the outside of the stud to the inside. Unless you put a piece of wood on the inside of each stud so that none of your fastners do not touch the metal stud you sould be fine. Added weight and time. I have experience with this from installing sunrooms in the past. No thermal break means problems down the road. I too am going to build a new little house (8X18 with a 3'V) and would love to have it insulated with spray foam but when I can put high density foam in for less than half the price well you know what I will be using.

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