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ATTN: Lakerunner

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Hey Lakerunner, here is the spec.s right out of the book for your Triumph.

Primary clutch spring= Dark Blue/white. pn. 7041781

Weights= 10M pn. 1321528

Secondary Clutch spring= Silver in hole #2 pn. 7041499

Helix= R32 pn. 5131623

The main jets should be 360's and the needle clip should be on 3. (basicaly the middle)

Gearing should be 21/39 stock. This should be good enough for 90 m.p.h. at LEAST!

Go through and check all of these specs. and verify they are right. Check your secondary clutch and make sure the buttons are not shot. If you haven't done it yet, change the springs in both clutches, this can make a big difference. Check the weights and make sure they are free and the bushings are not shot.

Here's a big one.... check the chaincase. Make sure the chain is not way too tight. I have seen guys go way too nuts tightening the chain and this KILLLLLLLS speed. All I ever do is run the tensioner bolt in fairly snug with my fingers and tighten the jam nut. Also check your track tension, same as the chain tensioner, if it's too tight, speed goes down the crapper. I normally run the track quite a bit looser than recommended just for that reason. If the track is not ratcheting on the drivers, I call er' good. It's free speed. Also check the belt, make sure it's the right one and not worn out! Go through and check these things out and see what you can find. Something isn't right, those sleds ran awesome in stock trim and should get way better milage than that. Good Luck and keep me posted!>> NAMA

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NAMA--thanks for the info but I have already gone through all of that and everything is right on. Below is the post that I put out on hardcoresledder.com

I know that the m-10 will cut some speed along with the reverse--but this is unreasonable. Not only did I double check everything but so did the dealer and a local snomo guru. Anymore advice/info would be awesome and very much appreciated. Thanks.

"First off--the specs: Reverse, M-10, epi clutch kit (primary-silver spring, 10M5 weights; secondary--orange spring, #3 hole), Gates Extreme belt that corresponds to the stock Polaris.

According to the spec sheets, the clutches are hitting all the right marks; engage 4500-4700 with peak at 8500 rpm.

I weigh about 220# but I still could only get the sled to do 70-75mph. I changed the top gear to a 25 tooth and that seems to help (maybe now around 90-95--haven't had a chance to open up a lot).

But I still like my old 500 XC but the wife is riding that one--it is a lot faster (top-end) and quicker.

The main problem that I'm having is the fuel economy--it is in the neighbor of 4-5 mpg and that is even if I'm not riding hard!

It is extremely fustrating!!! If the price wasn't right on it and would dump it!! I could cover the cost of the sled by just selling the M-10.

What do I have wrong with the set-up??

I want the performance (especially fuel to get better) otherwise I can't ride it. Around here you NEED 100-110 mile range or else...

I should add that the compression on all 3 cyl are right at the 140psi mark and right at spec."

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Everything sounds like it's in order. The only thing I question to this point is who installed the M-10 and did they do it correcly?? There is not much room for error when switching from the stock suspension to an M-10. Everything has to be mounted properly for the rail to work correctly, if the geometry is off on one or both of the two mounting points in the tunnel,the rail won't work the way it should. If this is the case it could be causing all sorts of issues one of which could include the track tensioning under load which would rob speed and cause terrible gas milage. Not sure if this sounds like a possibility to you or not but just another place to look.

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NAMA--FAST put it in themselves. Their main shop is 2 blocks from my house and I had Dave Karpik go through it as soon as I got home--everything is ok.

I'm wondering is maybe I just don't have something hooked up right. You know, something simple can cause major headaches.

Also, I'm looking for a HSOforum and can't find it. I'm a novice when it comes to tearing sleds apart so I got online and found a very good diagram and description of how to thoroughly breakdown and clean 34mm round slides. It was linked somehow to ronnies.com

I have been back there and I can't find it. I would like it so that I have more info on how to tear down flat slides. It was VERY descriptive and even a novice could do almost a professional job. Any ideas?

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You may be able to get a performance manual from your dealer. There is normally a pretty good decription of how to disassemble the carbs and decriptions of all the parts. I have a few of them at home, I can look and see if I have one for the XLT (Triumph). If I can find it I can copy off the pages and fax them or send them down to you. Maybe your dealer would copy them off for you as well. You may also want to pull your recoil off and check your stator. Maybe the bolts loosened up and the stator moved a little throwing your timing off a little. This would explain alot. There should be a mark on the stator that lines up with a mark on the crankcase, check to see that they are line up. One more simple thing you could check is spark plug gap, I have overlooked that one a few times. I have had brand new ones be gapped incorrectly and cause poor performance. Keep me posted, we'll get it fiquired out!

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Lakerunner, I do happen to have a Polaris 2000 year service and performance manual with everything you need to know about your sled in it. If your interested get back to me and I can arrange to ship it down to you for little cash! The book is practicly brand new. Thanks NAMA

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Thanks NAMA but I have 2 actually. I also have a 2000 500XC, which I love but I lost it to my wife. EJ Dawson (5 Seasons Sports) is an awesome dealer and he has given me all of the service and performance manuals along with shop diagrams/specs/etc.

I do greatly appreciate your info. I took the carbs out last night and cleaned again. I'll see how it runs at the Giant's Ridge Hill Climb this weekend. And no, I'm not racing--our club volunteers and does the hill patrol/safety.

If I can't get it de-bugged now, any testing will have to wait until next winter--I'm out of snow.

Do you recommend dropping a size or two on the jets?

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Na, I would run it just like it is with the stock jetting. Even if you jetted it down two sizes you likely wouldn't notice the difference in the couple of horse you may gain and it's not worth the time and effort of pulling the motor down to replace a "holed" piston. When I was racing I would definitly mess with the jetting depending on the temp, barometer, air density, humidity etc. but for normal everyday running I just didn't see the benefit of trying to eeek out that last little bit. Good Luck! I was glad to try to help! grin.gif

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