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2cycle engine oil


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would it hurt my lazer mag if i didn't use
strikemaster's 2 cycle engine oil and use walmart's brand instead? is there a difference? is anyone using walmarts 2 cycle oil now.

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LAKe

I was told by a small enging mechanic many years ago (10 yrs) not to use anything but Lawnboy two-stroke oil. I've been using it in my jiffy ever since. It still runs great, starts on the first pull, and I've never had to replace a spark plug. I don't know anything about strikemaster oil but would definitely not use some generic or odd-brand oil. The companies that make two-stroke engines are more likely to know what make a good two-stroke oil. If I were you, I would start using Lawnboy, can't go wrong.

mike

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In my opinion 2 cycle is two cycle!

In my lazer I use an oil that comes in six plastic bags. They are pre-measured for a gallon of gas. I apologize for not remembering the name brand. Take a moment, looking through the oil aisle at Fleet Farm etc.

My lazer is running tip top with this set-up.


Jim W

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I agree with Jim W, I have used all types of 2 cycle and haven't had any problems with the auger not working properly. I don't personally use strikemaster 2 cycle, and don't see any reason why the difference in type would matter.
Good Fishing, Matt.

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TCW-# is TCW-3 no matter what brand name is on the jug.
I get a kick out of people who will pay substantially more for oil marked Yamaha, Evenrude or Mercury just because the dealer or Mechanic told them that that is the ONLY oil one should use. Think about it...of course they will tell you that, that's what they get paid to do...sell their product.
TCW-3 is the formulation.
How many oil refineries do you think that are out there make 2 cycle? Maybe only a handful.
Does Merc, Yammy, OMC have their own oil refineries? More than likely no.
It all comes from a few refineries and then sold to these companies who put it into jugs with their name on it and jack the prices up. Is there anything wrong with them doing so? No, it's the American way smile.gif
I've been using Fleet Farm TCW-3 in my boat for 4 years now and have not had any problems. All you are doing buying the name-brand oil is just that..paying for a name.
Good luck
>"////=<

------------------
>"////=<
Gull Guide Service
fishingminnesota.com/gullguide
Brainerd-Mille Lacs-Willmar
Bemidji-Ottertail

[This message has been edited by GullGuide (edited 02-07-2002).]

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I have to disagree with most of the posts so far. Gullguide is right however, there are not as many refineries as there are two stroke oil brands. However, there are different grades of oil made by each one of these refineries. There is a reason the Walmart oil is cheaper. It's because it has more of what I like to call garbage in it. In other words, it is not refined to a higher degree like the oil that goes into say, a Yamaha, or OMC jug. Also, there are additives in the more expensive oil that allow it to burn more completely, i.e., cleaner. The result is less carbon deposits, cleaner combustion chamber, and less likely to have ring sticking, and other piston related problems. I use Amzoil, or OMC oil in everything I run. Amzoil is very expensive, I will agree with that. But, I prefer not to take a chance with cheaper oil for the reasons I just outlined. Especially in my ice auger. I burn maybe two gallons a season in the auger. I can see no reason to not feel the peace of mind I get from using the better oil, especially when the amount I use in the auger is so minimal. After all, I'd rather spend a little extra now, than a lot more later. Now the boat is another story, I finally broke down and bought a four stroke, and man, am I ever glad I did. Now all I'm waiting for is a four stroke auger. Now that would be a money maker!

Set the Hook, Hard!!

Lundman

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A general guideline to use when selecting two stroke oil is to select a product designed for the basic type of engine cooling and it's operating environment. An example is outboard oil vs. snowmobile oil. Both are for liquid cooled engines but the snowmobile oil is formulated to flow better in a cold environment. Try pouring your Evinrude oil and your Polaris oil when it's 0 degrees and see the difference.

Another consideration is that oils are formulated for the type of cooling system that the engine used. A liquid cooled engine will operate within a much narrower range of temperatures and typically not see the higher temps and extremes that an air cooled engine will. Be sure you choose an oil formulatd for air cooled engines for use in your auger.

Lastly check to be sure that the oil meets the TCW-3 specification. While this is only a minimum level of performance it is a benchmark for the oil's quality.

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HYDRO and LUNDMAN said alot on oil take there advice. Use the oil that is recomended for the engine you are using and you will not have a lubrication related problem with your motor.There are better oils that can be use for everything made but don't have the special formula's the manufacture wants in there oil. MANUFACTURES OIL IS THE BEST INSURANCE YOU CAN HAVE FOR YOUR MOTOR

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I believe oil is oil.Also your talking about a one cylinder 2-3 hp motor so I wouldn't be overly concerned people.I mean these motors are fool proof, as long as you mix something that is two cycle oil with it it'll be fine.

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Here's another two bits worth of information. I am very careful using the synthetic oils because of their affinity for moisture and the problems with that when storing the engine. Don't get me wrong here, they work great for operation of the engine, but many of them do not provide the moisture barrier necessary to keep the internal components protecetd from rust over long periods. I've also used synthetic gear oil in my outboards and have notived that any water that gets in will go into solution with the oil.

I've been using a high quality synthetic in my chain saws for years, mixing at a 100:1 ratio instead of the recommended 40:1 and have seen no unusual wear. I don't recommend that you try this unless you are confident in the quality of your oil, but it has worked great for me.

The one thing that you MUST do is to run the engine on a thick mixture of petroleum based oil before you put it away for the season. This coats the internal parts with a protective film of oil.

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I've used a Strikemaster XL-3000 for three years now, and it was used two seasons when I got it. I've never used Strikemaster oil, but, like Lundman and some others, have never put cheap, off-brand oils in her. When I bought the auger I bought a 2 gallon gas can and have never used more than half that in a year of hundreds of holes. So spend $3 or $5 instead of $1.49 on oil. That one pint will probably last you the whole season. Why take a chance on a $300 auger?

TCW-3 is one classification I look for, but my Strikemaster owner's manual says mix it about 25-to-1 unless the oil is NMMA approved. Then it can go 32-to-1, according to the manual. So I've only used NMMA approved oils now. I've gone back to 25-to-1 because I want the extra lubrication.

I also only burn premium gas in all my 2-strokes. At a gallon of gas a year for the auger, that's about 10 to 15 cents I'm splurging on there. Premium has detergents that keep fuel systems clean, and I'm sold on it.

Between premium gas and premium oils, we're only talking a couple bucks a year for the auger, or chain saw, or lawn mower or whatever.

Whatever you decide, have a blast. That's what toys are for.

------------------
Steve ([email protected])

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