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Turkey Broadheads


harvey lee

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Of course the best answer is to use what ever you are most comfortable or most confident with. I've never used mech's for no good reason other than I make my fixed blades fly and group like every field point I've ever shot. I used to have Magnus Stinger 4-blade, but I switched to the G5 Stingers and those have really helped out. I am hitting 1" spots 8/10 shots.

Of course I haven't had to shoot a turkey with the bow yet, so maybe there is a head out there that will kill better, but thats always a tough call.

I know Joel tried the Gobbler Guillitine (sp?) last year and liked them. Its an all or nothing type of head which is good for not wounding birds, but you have to be able to hit head or neck. Oh, and they aren't cheap.

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MNMuzzleloader:

I've heard good things about these heads as well. Big surface area for good shock value, and they don't penetrate too far. I'd check with the DNR however on legality, as the rules about heads being of "barbless-design" is somewhat vague. I know the older style heads with the large barbs at the base of the head aren't legal here, but do the reverse barbs along the blade surface count? I'd email them to see what they say. Odds are that it's OK, but it's good to know ahead of time.

Joel

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Quote:

Of course the best answer is to use what ever you are most comfortable or most confident with. I've never used mech's for no good reason other than I make my fixed blades fly and group like every field point I've ever shot. I used to have Magnus Stinger 4-blade, but I switched to the G5 Stingers and those have really helped out. I am hitting 1" spots 8/10 shots.

Of course I haven't had to shoot a turkey with the bow yet, so maybe there is a head out there that will kill better, but thats always a tough call.

I know Joel tried the Gobbler Guillitine (sp?) last year and liked them. Its an all or nothing type of head which is good for not wounding birds, but you have to be able to hit head or neck. Oh, and they aren't cheap.


I shoot the Guilitines and love em, I loped off a couple of heads last spring with it.

Otherwiae xhexk out the Rocket Archery Slammerhead 3L, they were another great broadhead before guilitines were legal in MN.

Another thing to remember with the Guilitine is that it does not and will not fly like your regular arrow, your gonna need a heavier, straighter, longer and differently fletched arrow to shoot it and shoot it accuratly. Dead on 20 about 2 inches low at 30.

You track your bird in feet, its pretty cool I suggest using them if you can. They come in packages of three, shoot one as practice, and pick up there broadhead caddy to set the other two up. Trust me they are a pain to set up in the middle of darkness inside your double bull blind.

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Another thing to remember with the Guilitine is that it does not and will not fly like your regular arrow, your gonna need a heavier, straighter, longer and differently fletched arrow to shoot it and shoot it accuratly. Dead on 20 about 2 inches low at 30.

Can you clarify on the type of blank and also the type of fletching needed for these? I looked at these in Sportsmans warehouse and they looked like what I need. Also what weight head were you using,100, or the 120. There was quite a difference in the size. By the way, I'm shooting a Matthews MQ-1 with a shoot-thru rest...not a drop-away does that matter?

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Another thing to remember with the Guilitine is that it does not and will not fly like your regular arrow, your gonna need a heavier, straighter, longer and differently fletched arrow to shoot it and shoot it accuratly. Dead on 20 about 2 inches low at 30.

Can you clarify on the type of blank and also the type of fletching needed for these? I looked at these in Sportsmans warehouse and they looked like what I need. Also what weight head were you using,100, or the 120. There was quite a difference in the size. By the way, I'm shooting a Matthews MQ-1 with a shoot-thru rest...not a drop-away does that matter?


Good thing I am more accurate with my bow than my spelling lol.

They fly better with a longer arrow, plus you can't have the guilitine go underneath your sight if your using the 120.

I cant say a shoot through rest would make a difference, at worst, try it. Sportsmens, by the way which sportsmans? I used to work at the Coon Rapids store for four years and than left last july because they wouldnt give me the Streiffs tournament off. Thats how I ended up at Gander. They should have a few returns laying around for you to shoot.

I cant say I am a gold tip fan, but the Goldtip pro hunters work great for em. Buy one or two in bulk, most places have bare shafts, you dont need to buy a half dozen. Mine are wrapped with 5 inch western Archery Feathers with five feathers to an arrow, I cant tell you the degree because I dont remember but with the white double bull wraps and all white arrows it looked like looking down on an ice cream cone from dairy queen. grin.gif

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Capn Jack:

Arrowdynamic Solutions (makers of the Gobbler Guillotine) also sell a 3 pk of arrows they recommend shooting. As lilman stated, these shafts are longer, stronger, and have the correct fletching for stabilizing this massive head/arrow combination in-flight.

If you can't find the raw materials to make your own, this is also an option.

The arrows they sell are gold-tips. Previously, they had an arrow that tapered thicker towards the broadhead, which was a superior solution IMO. Because of liability concerns, as well as manufacturer resupply issues, I believe Arrowdynamic discontinued use/sale of this particular shaft and went with the Gold Tips.

Make sure and practice at different yardages and use a rangefinder if you can. Many people shoot lighter grain arrows and tips if they're currently setup for whitetails, and will be confused as to why their 30yd sight-pin puts it in the dirt at the turkeys feet.

Good luck!

Joel

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I went to the local archery shop today looking into the Gobbler Guillotin and they steared me into buying Hypershocks. They said most guys weren't getting much accuracy past 15 to maybe 20 yds with the guillotine plus they often break when practicing with them. This route was a lot cheaper as well consdering I didn't need new arrows. Anyone else tried the Hypershocks out there?

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