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Beaver through Ice


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What is the best set for beaver under the ice? I set a 330 in a run out aways from the lodge, and a baited 330 right before the feed pile. I have both of the traps on fence posts. Are fence posts going to scare beaver away? Also, should I be able to feel a small channel where they are swimming out of the lodge or can it be wider? Where I have the trap I can see where they are going because it is a straight line out of the lodge where there is no cattails, and everywhere else there is cattails. It is about 4 ft wide, and it seemed like it was all the same depth with no definite run. Thanks for the help.

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Poutpro, alot of times you can tell it's a hot run, because the ice isn't as thick as it is in other areas. Usually if the ice is 5 inches thick all around the hut, it's probably less than an inch thick over the hot runs. Secondly, the pond bottom is often times very hard. You can check this out one of two ways. You can use a stick you would find on the hut and poke it into the bottom. You will definately feel the change in the bottom. The other way, the way I prefer, is to put a pair of waders on, jump into the hole, and feel the bottom with your feet. I've taught lots of people how to trap beavers. Some of the people who don't want to go the extra mile, by putting the waders on, are not as sucessfull. You will be suprised at what you can tell, when you get into the hole. Don't get me wrong, sometimes there is no need to do this, other times it is the only way.

If you have a run that is 4 ft. wide, you need to channel it down to traps size, by using guide sticks.

I don't think I would use fence posts to put the trap on. However I don't think it will scare the beavers away, I just think you wouldn't have to carry as much into the woods. I would just use the sticks you will find on the beaver hut, to use as support sticks for your trap.

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im trapping a crick where there are tons of beaver lodges but i got a problem with chopping through the ice to make a set. the ice is aboout 8-10 inches thick and every time i get a hole chopped through it freezes again in a day. is there anyway to insulate the hole so it doesnt freeze over and i have to chop through 8 inches of ice just to check a normally empty trap

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I just use a chainsaw to cut the ice, so it isn't too big of a deal to have to reopen. I would imagine that if you got some foam insulation and put it over the hole, and then covered that with snow, that the hole wouldnt freeze AS solid. Otherwise I thought about tying a peice of styrafoam onto the trap and squeezing it between the jaws, and then when it fires, it will float up, and you can see it of just chisel a small hole and use a wire to probe for the string.

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You need to look for the main runs the beaver uses. If you find them, then ice will only be 2-3 inches thick, If you have snow, you can cover the hole with card board, and then with snow. I was reading a forum with a trapper in Alaska, and thats the method they use. They said 30 below zero, about a week between checks, only an inch of ice between checks.

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330 is the best beaver trap made. The perfect design to hit the body just right for a quick kill. Just have to be sure you are setting the runs. Beaver trapping is VERY hard if you try and do a quick set. It is nothing to spend an hour or more chopping ice looking for the runs.

Another thing you can use is a large pole in a L shape. THat way you can stick it in your hole and feel around the lodge to see if there is a run there.

When you cover with snow do NOT pack it down tight, when you do this the snow looses its insulating abilities.

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I agree with Fishermann, you just need to find the hot runs. Usually located on each side of the feed bed. You will know when you find them. If they are too wide, just fence them off with guide sticks on each side of the trap.

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Well I think I was in the run, but there were just too much of a space for them to go around the trap. I fenced it off with some branches, and I will see what happens in the middle of the week here.

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