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Question on 11lb tank


SomethingFishy*

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Quote:

I think Mr. Hanson has a hunch that this tank was not properly purged. I think he might be right!


LOL! Yeppers.

A number of years ago, before I knew about FishingMinnesota (the one and only place to find answers on just about everything!) I bought an 11lb tank and had it filled but it was never purged. It exhibited the same symptoms. Propane would just not come out of it. My appliances and hoses worked on my other tanks but not that one.

So Airjer- Can a tank thats been filled still be purged? Will most propane places have the knowledge to do this? I know some don't even know how to fill anything other than a 20lb. grin.gif

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IMO where you get your tanks filled matters. I take mine to a welding supply shop and they know what they are doing with their tanks and gasses. Before I knew about purging these guys asked me straight out if my tank had been purged yet. I said I didn't know anything about it so they did it anyway. Not like its gonna costs a bunch of extra money.

I use an 11lb pancake style tank and have never had a single problem. I also use a Mr. Cooker.

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Quote:

Quote:

I know some don't even know how to fill anything other than a 20lb.
grin.gif


[/indent]

Hanson,

Would I have to worry about the local gas station not knowing how to fill an 11# tank. I just purchased a panckake style tank a few days ago and have yet to have it filled.

CA
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Depends on where you go. Some places have people that know just what to do, other places have people with no clue. I avoid gas stations. Find a place that sells welding gas and supplies and there is a bout a 100% chance it will be done right, or go to an RV servicing place, they too should know what the score is. Places here in the cities that do it rights are Mike's LP in Maplewood and Toll Gas Supply.

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Quote:

Would I have to worry about the local gas station not knowing how to fill an 11# tank. I just purchased a pancake style tank a few days ago and have yet to have it filled.


Most should know what to do, but remember, filling propane is not the primary job description of a gas station/convenience store worker. I have run into some that don't know what to do when I pull out a couple 11lb tanks. The process is the same (I think), they just need to adjust the weight on the scale for the smaller tank.

Bait shops that carry propane are pretty good about filling the various size tanks.

If you just bought your tank, remember to have them Purge it before its filled.

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When I bought mine last year and took it in the first time the guy knew exactly what to do. I go to a propane company that fills bulk but will fill your smaller 11 and 20 lb tanks also. Sure glad he knew what was going on I would not have had a clue I think it only cast like $5.00 a one time fee.

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Thanks for all the replies. It is my second fill on the tank. I had it purged (supposedly) at the same place that filled it last year. I always go tho the same place with my 20lbers and have never had a problem. , and brought this one there as well. It did the same thing at first last year. I was thinking of bringing it to the place tomorrow and having them check it out. It was a new fill after they had their equipment checked. They fill alot of tanks and have always been reliable.

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Quote:

So Airjer- Can a tank thats been filled still be purged? Will most propane places have the knowledge to do this? I know some don't even know how to fill anything other than a 20lb.
grin.gif


Yes and No! grin.gif

The process of purging is simply removing the air in the tank and replacing it with propane. The best way IMO is using a set of valves attached to a 20# tank that is filled with propane. This setup is connected to a new tank. The new tank is then filled to about 20psi and then vented. This process is repeated for a total of three times. The reason I like this method is because it is much better at removing the moister from the tank. If your tank is purged in the winter it may not be a bad idea to repurge it in the spring to remove the moisture.

If you see them hooking your tank up to the refill hose and opening a screw on the side of the tank to purge, this is incorrect for a couple of reasons. First, on the other end of the screw is a plastic straw calibrated to extend into the tank so that when the tank is 80% full liquid propane will come out of the hole. The tank still has 20% off air in it after it is purged this way. The second, as soon as the liquid propane is introduced into the tank all the moister in the tank instantly freezes to the inside of the tank. Again in the winter this doesn't matter.

Can a tank be purged after it is filled? Yes. The trapped air can be removed by simply venting the tank. This can be done by the propane filler or by using an unregulated hose, outside, away from anything that could cause a spark, and slightly cracking open the valve (a minute and a half to two minutes is all that is needed). Once the tank is empty and with warm weather I would recommend it be repurged to again remove any moisture that may still be in the tank.

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So that begs the question...

Should these tanks (any tank really) be purged once a season if the propane has not been used up?

Example: I used my 11lb tank attached to my buddy on one overnight last winter; that's all I used it for (sad, I know). It seems to be at least half full. Have I most likely collected moisture in this since last year, and therefore it should be purged and refilled, or at least refilled?

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A new tank only needs to be purged correctly one time.

If the tank is purged in the winter with temps below freezing then I would recommend (although not necessary) having it repurged in the spring to get out any moisture if any that may have frozen to the inside of the tank.

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airjer,

I have a question for you. Natural gas and propane furnaces have "drip tee's" in the gas line before entering the appliance. This is to trap the "moisture" in the gas before entering the appliance.

There is moisture in natural and propane (or for the purpose of trapping moisture from the gas line being in the cold weather, going into a heated environment or the "pop can" effect) gas or the tee would not be put in the line before the appliance.

Here is the question...

Wouldn't that mean that the moisture would accumulate over time and not just before the first fill? Wouldn't a person need to purge it more often, based on that theory?

I have not had any issues in the past with my tanks.

I have a heated garage and after taking the tank from the ice to the house it gets cold and then warm.

You seem to be knowledgable on the subject, as is the reason for my questions.

Thanks...

river-rat4

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AirJer:

Now you have my curiosity up as well. I have two 20# tanks and my sister has one that exhibit the same problem. They are all new OPD type. I don't know where she bought hers but I bought one at a MSP wholesale club and the other either at Fleet or Menard's. All three tanks are full but almost no gas comes out. When hooked to a grill, you barely get a flame. I haven't tried backing down to about half open on the valve which I have now heard of several other people having had happen. Could this be a purge problem as well. Secondly, since my two are almost completely full, what can you do? confused.gif I know some other guys that think the OPD valves are a crock and one guy swears it caused a fire that almost took his house but I am not sure what to do with the almost 40#'s of propane that I can't get out. HELP if you can.

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First question. I have no idea! The only thing I can think of is that there are billions of miles of natural gas line, it would be inpossible to purge the moister out of it all. As far as I know they only need to be purged one time. Next time we have training or I give our supplier a call I'll have to quiz them!

Second question. There is the possibility that you are tripping the EFD (excessive flow device). This will limit the flow of propane to the appliance if tripped. If you open the valve to quickly and the hose going to the appliance is empty it can trip. If it does trip simply shut of the valve and wait for a minute for the EFD to reset. Then open the valve slowly. I do believe this only applies if you are using the ACME (external thread) style connectors.

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