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That’s an interesting point. While I understand how Amps work, I can’t say I’m fully versed in the draw of modern on board chargers. By modern code, outdoor and outbuilding outlets should be 20 Amp. If your outside or garage outlets are 15 Amp, they’re undersized. But that is quite possible if the garage was built before that code became enforced. With heavy use, you may not be able to keep up on daily charging without the 10 Amp per channel charger, however that’s with very aggressive use for consecutive days. On our June muskie trip we run up to 15 hours a day for up to 7 days on a 24V Ulterra and by mid week we’re starting to see the batteries not reach full charge. That’s a lot of bank running at nearly 2 mph on windy shores. We charge at a dock with up to 6 boats per dock plugged in - some with 36 volt systems. Now I’m not sure if all the outlets are on a dedicated circuit but I’m betting they aren’t. But they’re all 20A outlets with a lot of draw on them. At max draw, they’re not keeping up but also not tripping the breakers. What I’m saying, without a technical review is: you’re probably fine either way. You probably won’t tax your batteries so much that they can’t recover on a 5 Amp per channel overnight charge and a 10Amp per channel charger probably won’t be too much to plug into your 15A outlet - if it really is a 15A. If you’re sure, you’re sure, but I would double check if you’re not 100%. -
By Crow Hunter · Posted
Another question- I wil be running 24 volts on the trolling motor for this boat, what amperage onboard charger should I buy? Some have told me 10 amps per channel, but at full draw that would be 20 amps, and my outlets at home and where I plug in at the lake is only 15 amps, is 5 amps per channel enough to charge batteries overnite after using spotlock during the day? Thanks for the help. -
By Macgyver55 · Posted
Got a look at a condor yesterday at Pinacles national park. This was the best I could zoom with my phone. -
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I moved my "skimmer" transducer from the stern of the boat (traditional mounting) to the bow mounted electric motor with the skimmer mount kit. I ended up using wire ties to fasten the cable loosely along the shaft of the electric motor (which is a Minn-Kota Auto-Pilot). I figured it would happen, but I ended up pinching the cable and semi-wrecking the cable (audible sparking). I was able to tape it up and I now get a ton of interference when the electric motor is on. I think there is a compromise in the shielding, and I'll look into it. I'll probably end up replacing the transducer.
My question is...how have people been successful in wiring their transducers on an electric motor? The challenge is the extend and retract needs of the motor and how to deal with that in the wiring (slack needed).
(My favorite option is replacing the electric motor with the integrated transducer, but that's not happenin'.)
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