Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

Help.....boat trailer cross member


slappy64

Recommended Posts

I had a little problem at the boat ramp this weekend and bent the front cross member. I dont think that it can be fixed, does anyone know where i can find a new one? It's a spartan trailer and it has a "V" style cross member. Thanks all.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Slappy,

Been down this road before. Grab a 4x4 or 6x6 timber about 4 feet long and have somone hold this against the backside of the cross member. wrap a cable from a come along (winch) around both. Anchor the other end (the winch end) securely to the mast. It would be best to get a chain or heavier cable to wrap around the mast and the main tube to the tongue.

Here is were it can get a little tricky. Carefully crank the cable tight and add tension. Dont over crank or the cable could snap and come back at you. Now with the help of that other person I spoke of earlier, have them wack the backside of the timber with a sledge hammer as you crank. If the cross member is not moving you may have a bigger problem than you would care for. This has worked in the past and I'm sure it will for you.

The only down side to this has been some ugly looking welds at the main rails of the frame from getting bent.

Good luck

Terry

Terry Guide Service

www.fishingmn.com/terry

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Why do I picture an Over Sized bow and arrow pointing right at you?

My suggestion is to find a shop to cut off the existing cross member and reweld a new one back into its position and paint it with a good rustoliom paint. As soon as you start bending steel you are going to have some issues with running straight down the road.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quote:

The only down side to this has been some ugly looking welds at the main rails of the frame from getting bent.

Good luck

Terry

Terry Guide Service


"Ugly welds" have most likely had their strength compromised. Best bet is to contact a professional to repair severe damage to a trailer. When you pull a trailer down the highway, it ought to be safe. A competent professional should be able to repair this damage at a reasonable cost, and it will be attractive and safe to use.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • Bighorn sheep at Lemoille canyon.   
    • Wild horses in Sparks Nevada   ad
    • Donner lake near Donner pass in California   
    • Redwoods near Big Sur California.  
    • Power output is:  amps x volts = watts   If your charger is pushing 10amp at 12 volt: 12 x 10 = 120 watts.  2 banks = 240 watts.   240 watts / 120v at your outlet = 2 amp.   Efficiency isn't 100% so it's gonna be more than 2 amp on your garage circuit, but maybe like 2.4 amps.     I think.... It's been a while, LOL.  Either way 20amps output on a charger for a 12v battery isn't the same as pulling 20amps off your garage circuit.
    • Wanderer, thank you. I did look at the breakers for my garage/outside outlets and they are 20 amp.  I reached out to the company that makes dual pro chargers with the question and this is the reply I received.:     Thank you for reaching out to us here at PCS. The Sportsman series charger, although rated ay 10 amps per bank, draws only 5 amps from AC when all banks are charging. As the Professional series which provides 15 amps per bank, has a maximum AC draw of 7.5 amps with all banks charging.  
    • That’s an interesting point.  While I understand how Amps work, I can’t say I’m fully versed in the draw of modern on board chargers.   By modern code, outdoor and outbuilding outlets should be 20 Amp.  If your outside or garage outlets are 15 Amp, they’re undersized.  But that is quite possible if the garage was built before that code became enforced.   With heavy use, you may not be able to keep up on daily charging without the 10 Amp per channel charger, however that’s with very aggressive use for consecutive days.  On our June muskie trip we run up to 15 hours a day for up to 7 days on a 24V Ulterra and by mid week we’re starting to see the batteries not reach full charge.  That’s a lot of bank running at nearly 2 mph on windy shores.   We charge at a dock with up to 6 boats per dock plugged in - some with 36 volt systems.  Now I’m not sure if all the outlets are on a dedicated circuit but I’m betting they aren’t.  But they’re all 20A outlets with a lot of draw on them.  At max draw, they’re not keeping up but also not tripping the breakers.   What I’m saying, without a technical review is: you’re probably fine either way.  You probably won’t tax your batteries so much that they can’t recover on a 5 Amp per channel overnight charge and a 10Amp per channel charger probably won’t be too much to plug into your 15A outlet - if it really is a 15A.  If you’re sure, you’re sure, but I would double check if you’re not 100%.
    • Another question- I wil be running 24 volts on the trolling motor for this boat, what amperage onboard charger should I buy? Some have told me 10 amps per channel, but at full draw that would be 20 amps, and my outlets at home and where I plug in at the lake is only 15 amps, is 5 amps per channel enough to charge batteries overnite after using spotlock during the day? Thanks for the help.
    • Got a look at a condor yesterday at Pinacles national park. This was the best I could zoom with my phone.  
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.