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Fluorocarbon Line - What and Why


eyepatrol

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I've seen a number of members talk about fluorocarbon line, especially the use of it on their long-line rigs. I don't know a thing about it, so I've got some what's and why's:

The What's:

First of all, what is it...is it a modified mono or something all itself?

Secondly, what are the advantages of using this line over others such as the mono and braided?

Thirdly, what are the disadvantages of using fluoro line, if any?

The Why's:

First, why would you recommend using this line?

Secondly, why would you not recommend using this line? (if there is a reason not to)

(the Why's might already be answered by the What's, but just in case) tongue.gif

Thanks!

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It looks like mono, but is actually made of something different. The reason people use it is that it is said to be invisible underwater and I believe it is stronger than normal mono.

Some disadvantages of it are that it is fairly stiff and I sure wouldn't spool it on my whole reel. Rather use it for leaders, snells, etc. Another disadvantage is that it isn't very abrasion resistant. Meaning, it will cut and nick itself easier than mono or braided. When you are fishing rocks, you should be checking it all the time.

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Quote:

It looks like mono, but is actually made of something different. The reason people use it is that it is said to be invisible underwater and I believe it is stronger than normal mono.

Some disadvantages of it are that it is fairly stiff and I sure wouldn't spool it on my whole reel. Rather use it for leaders, snells, etc. Another disadvantage is that it isn't very abrasion resistant. Meaning, it will cut and nick itself easier than mono or braided. When you are fishing rocks, you should be checking it all the time.


you sure about that willy cuz the guy that invented power pro says that 14 to 20 pound fluorocarbon is impervious to abrasions

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I think it's supposed to be but, when I've used it, it's kinda stiffer and get's cut really easiliy when fishing rocks or gravel or wood or whatever.

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I have been experimenting with Flouro as leader material to prevent bite-offs. 25 lb Seaguar is very effective for preventing bite offs. I gave the stuff a true test at a pike infested lake using swimbaits. The pike tend to engulf them on the initial strike and I never got bit off. I retied after about 12-15 and caught another dozen after that. The stuff really is invisible under water as well. I can see the 14# mono in the water and the 25# flouro is invisible.

I will be experimenting with lighter flouro leaders with jigs because I hate using wire with jigs.

I don't see the advantages of spooling up with it as it is very stiff. Although it might not twist up as much with lures that are prone to causing line twist.

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I use it on my spinning rod, I have 20lb. Power Pro as my main line, then a leader of 12 lb. Berkley Vanish. I usually start out with a 6 foot leader but after changing baits a few times it gets shorter and shorter. You can't see it under water and it is tougher than mono. I think it streatches like mono though. I also use it in the winter with the same setup, Power pro as the main line then a leader of flouro. I too would not fill up the whole spool with it as it tends to unravel.

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Fluoro sinks, where mono tends to be more buoyant. Sometims a sinking leader is exactly what you want, and sometimes not. For instance if your bobber fishing, mono will lay across the top of the water so when you set the hook, you can rip the line off the top of the water into a direct hookset. Fluoro, will sink, making hooksets a nightmare.

Pound for Pound, fluoro is suppose to be stronger than mono, but I've never tested.

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Does spooling with flurocarbon vs. regular mono make you a better fisherman. Can you honestly say that you have brought more fish to the boat or on the ice with flurocarbon line on your reel?

I have fished with both and to be honest with you, I have caught just as many fish with it spooled on my reels vs. without it.

With that said, maybe the question to ask yourself when you go to the store is "Is it worth saying $4-8 on fishing line." My answer would be yes. What's yours?

smile.gif

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Thanks for all the information folks. I appreciate the responses.

Is fluoro line more useful when fishing clear water situations? Most of the waters I fish are somewhat stained where water clarities are in the 2'-5' range. I may look into using it for leaders and such and perhaps for ice fishing.

Thanks again.

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Floro has a couple of advantages and a few disadvatages... Floro does not stretch as much as mono, yet is slightly stiffer and as mentioned, sinks...There are applications that floro is better.. I like it for flipping for bass and for jig worms.. I dont use it on many of my rods becuase of price.. its quite a bit more expensive for a good floro line than it is for a good mono...

I love it for ice fishing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Fluorocarobon has close to the same reflactive index as water, so it appears to disappear when wet. But you have to remember that the line is still in the fishes habitat, and when you move the line, it moves water, and any fish will feel that, even if they do not see it. Most Fluor. lines are almost twice as dense as mono so they sink faster than mono. Fluor. has low stretch and high abbrasion resistance. But fluor. has more memory than mono. and can be harder to manage in the higher tensile strengths than mono. Some applications for fluor. cranking, pitching jigs or tubes, worm rigs, drop shot, dead stick. I truly believe that your bite ration go's up with a fluorcarbon line. I still like mono for top water or buzzers and cranking rattle-traps. I like the stretch factor with traps, I lose less fish.

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I saw Lindner's show yesterday morning where they talked the entire show about the different kind of lines out there and the different applications for them. Agape has pretty well echoed what they said. It was a very interesting show, and I'm glad I caught it. The responses here along with their show has pretty well answered the questions I've had regarding fluoro lines (and others).

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