Amsoil oil

[Duckman8]

What mixture do you mix this at. The container says that you mix for everything at 100:1, but my auger takes 24:1. What do you do? Help! Do you try and break it down? There is no chart on the bottle. Any ifo is appreciated.

[trollingforeyes]

Gentlemen: Right from the Amzoil catalog..Quote---The synthetic 2-cycle injector oil and the synthetic 2-cycle 100:1 premix have the following rating. API TC/NMMA TCW2,TCW3/ JASO FC. End of quote.
I use it in all of my 2 cycles and all people that I have sold the oil to love it. In my chain saw and auger I use a mix of 50:1. by my own personal choice. It can go to 100:1 as per Amzoil recomendations or for use in high performance/severe applications Amzoil states that you can use the premix to 50:1 or lower, because it burns so complete with no fouling there are no issues. With the chainsaw and auger, I let them warm up for about a minute befor giving them full throttle, just to let the powerhead warm up. In the real cold wether that we have experienced this helps the manufacturing/machine tolerances equalize.It will also help the 3 hp powerheads perform better when cutting holes. You have to realize, that with a auger it is a sever motor application (gets started and within seconds usually given full throttle and by the time it cuts 2-4 holes finally reached its normal operating temp just to be shut down).

[This message has been edited by trollingforeyes (edited 02-05-2004).]

[radke22]

I run amsoil in my truck, boat, and auger. I know its spendy but look at it this way. My first experience with amsoil was when i had my bonneville. it got 16 mpg and ran over 200 degrees(supercharged) after swithching to amsoil i got 20mpg and it ran under 180! know i use it in everythig, and vehichle wise you can go 25,000 or one year between oil changes!

[Surface Tension]

The 50:1 mix is what I've found from Amzoil also for "Severe Duty".

I have searched more then once to find any Amzoil 2 cycle oil certified at any rating. You will find wording like "It is recommended for API TC, JASO FC, and ISO-EGD applications"
but they aren't certified. That isn't saying Amzoil isn't a good product.
Either they don't meet the specs or Amzoil doesn't want to flip the bill to have them tested is the way I look at it. Will using Amzoil void your warranty? I don't know, I would ask the manufacturer before using it. I do see a problem when 24:1 is subsituted for 100:1

[Knotwood]

Oil mixtures are always a source of differing opinions. I was trying to talk to the owner of Amsoil in our parking lot about a week ago about "break-in" oils. It is obvious he does not like any petroleum product, and stated vigorously about how all the oil companies all make inferior lubricants, and how much profit they can and do make regardless of the quality of their products, went on for at least ten minutes about the cost of certain additives and purity they employ in their oils. He said the only time not to use their product for break-in was for a diesel, which when used in a large vehicle will take 70k miles to fully break in. I remember fifteen years ago, a mechanic he had testing various oil ratios was buying Husqvarna pistons on a regular (almost weekly) basis for about six months, they were trying to see what their oils would protect against seizure- some went at ratios over 250:1.

Almost all major engine manufacturers have developed oils that are supposed to work better than others in their own engines, and the truck drivers always told me they came from the same plant, our tech reps said that was true, but not necessarily the same additives in each oil. Most of the name brand oils have built in reserve ratios that can sometimes allow engines to run satisfactorily at twice the recommended ratio.

What if the old book says use a 16:1 ratio? Do you mix your ratio at that? Look at the improvements that have occured in the last fifteen to twenty years in engines. I work on these things every day, and I still see LOTS of room for improvement, but the oils and the tolerances have improved. High shock loads MAY be cushioned by a thicker layer/amount of oil, but that's not what generally causes these to seize up. It is possible to seize from not allowing all the engine components to heat up gradually, then applying the loads the engine is designed for. We on this side of the pond are a bunch of animals that often beat up our machinery instead of really taking care of them, so any manufacturer has to contend with a wide variety of use and abuse.

In our shop, before the fifty to one oils came out, we used to get 80% of the seized engines from wrong/too rich mixes, more than the guys who forgot to put in oil entirely, the others were from running lean, case or seal leaks, plugged carbs, and the like.

Almost all difficulty with running engines is from old gas now, with storage for prolonged periods a big culprit.

Stay with a good name brand oil, use what you can in thirty days and during extended storage empty out the gas and run dry, fog if possible, or refresh the fuel each month and run until operating temperature is reached. Stabilizers help slow the deterioration, but do not eliminate it.

[Steve Foss]

Trollingforeyes and Knotwood:

OK, can a motor that's been run on conventional petroleum oils be switched over to synthetic at any time in its life, or only early in its life?

Got a rebuilt V8 in my Silverado with about 40,000 on it. Got an Isuzu Rodeo with 110,000 on original V6. Any problems there? How about the auger and chain saw? Auger's eight years old, chainsaw is 25. Got a 25-year old Johnson 35 hp outdboard too.

------------------
"Worry less, fish more."
Steve Foss
[email protected]

[ChuckN]

Great info Knotwood! Thanks for typing that.

Steve,
Yes, you can switch anytime. I have heard that once you switch to synthetic, you do not want to go back and forth from petro to synthetic products. They claim you can mix them, but you won't see the true effects.

The best performance increase was my 115hp outboard. You will notice a lot less smoke, smoother trolling, easier starting and less deposits that dampen performance.

[Steve Foss]

Thanks, guys. Guess I better get that leaking valve cover gasket replaced before I switch over, eh? Gets to be pretty expensive, leaking Amsoil onto the pavement.

------------------
"Worry less, fish more."
Steve Foss
[email protected]

[Knotwood]

Personally I use petroleum products, because they are easier to find if out in the boonies and can't find Amsoil (or other brands like Mobil 1). I look at the cost for the oils, and definitely cheaper (for me, anyway) to use petro. Everybody I talk to that use synthetics have had very good success with it (some motorcycle applications are still questionable due to the clutch bathed transmissions- most everyone who uses synth for them report good results, though), synthetics are a superior lube, and run cooler and do not break down over time and are generally more stable under loads and high temperatures. If you decide to use synthetics, stay with that kind of oil, do not switch back and forth, unless you completely remove all the oil that is inside the engine you are using. My understanding also says it isn't recommended for break in, but anytime (even years) after that, should improve running and wear characteristics. Dirt and excessive heat are killers of engines, if using synthetics in a regular vehicle, keep changing filters on a regular basis, even though the oil lasts longer between changes.

[trollingforeyes]

Yes you can switch at any time. With the 4 cycles if you did not change you oil frequently you should use (Amsoil) engine flush before changing over. This is because of Amsoils excellent detergent action. It may turn dark brown or black sooner in this case. If you have changed oil frequently and you engine is in sound mechanical condition there should be no problem. 2-Cycles you can change over at anytime. As for ALL engines it is best to break in a new engine BEFORE changing over. Reguarding the New car warranty oil change recomendation: Follow the oil change recommendations in your car manual. Failure to do this may cause the manufacture to deny a new vehicle warranty claim. If in doubt, check with you dealer Service Manager BEFORE you extend those oil change intervals.

[Xplorer]

Catfish,
I switched over my old 6cyl truck at 90000 from standard oil to Amsoil. I also switched over the tranny and transfer case over to Amsoil at that time. The only thing that i was told is that there we some folks that developed a small oil leak on switchover. This was explained as being the result of the symthetic not "plugging" a seal defection as well as regular oils. I never had any leakage. Where i really noticed a difference was in the transfer case. It used to be very stiff when it got real cold out moving to 4wd. After the switch, much easier even on the coldest day. I probably gained 1mpg afterward. Ran it for another 45k before i sold it, and a friend has had it the last year with no problems. I havnt tried it in my auger or other engines.
Xplorer