Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. 😀

  • Connect, BE BRAVE - We Share Fishing Reports & Outdoor Information Here

    "Post Your Thoughts" - Share a wee bit and Help, please...

    Because you want others to share great outdoor information with you!!!! Share what you 'love about your area' in the outdoors.

    EMOJI those posts you 'appreciate, please.'

      Have Fun!!!

Sign in to follow this  
minneman

auger rack idea

Recommended Posts

do you see any problems with this? I simply set the auger in the rack on my panther, it doesnt rock back&forth, just need to strap it from about midway on the flighting to the hitch area on the sled to keep it in place.

first time pic posting, sorry it so big..

acjiffyrack3.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It might put alot of stress on the shaft of the motorhead and the auger if you leave the auger attached to the motor.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was thinking the same thing as RoadRunner. It doesn't look too hard to build an extension piece that would support the auger bit, about in the center of the auger, also.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well besides the stress on the Auger you may be looking at legal issues on the handle blocking more then 75% of your tail light on the sled. Ever since the sleds have started getting faster and faster the laws are becoming more strict.

RED TAIL LIGHTS must be visiblefor 500 feet to the rear of the snowmobile. Your set up looks to be blocking the brightest part of the tail light creating a legal situation for you and giving the Deputies justifications to pull you over and tag you..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

gjk, its not like ill be riding the trails with an auger hangin off the back, if I used this idea, it would only be on the lake going from spot to spot

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Makes no difference the law still stands on the lakes too. The law states if not on PRIVATE lands all laws are to be followed and lakes are PUBLIC waters and open to the public placing you in a state of being ILLEGAL with blocking of the tail light..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

minneman-

I'm wondering if it wouldn't be easier to try and get your auger to sit across the rack sideways and tie it down. Put the powerhead to the left or right of the rack and rotate the auger blade until it nests solidly with the rack and then tie it down with rope or bungies.

It just seams to me that unless you tie it down in the position its in, it will eventually bounce out.

(Please remember I'm just looking at a worst case scenario here. It may stay there just fine but I'm not positive.)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Chris, of course at the time I tryed all positions, sideways wont work with the 10" flighting,(rubs on the backrest) and the motor would be swiging too. the way it is in the pic would definetly need some rigid brace to the flighting shaft and strap/s to hold it in the rack for any "long distance" runs.

I have a sled that I tow that the auger goes in for the long hauls. I am looking for a way to easily carry an auger once at a location to go from hole to hole to hole etc. when the holes are spread out its easier on my back, and I think this ought to work good, Ill let ya all know.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Minneman I built a rack for the back of a panther exactly like yours, works slick, been tested thoroughly too. If you are interested I can try to get pictures to you. All it takes is a sheet of 3/4 inch plywood a couple 2by2's. The support comes from the back of the shelf by way of a transom saver from my boat, the weight is transferred to the bumper. It isn't that pretty but it works sweet.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

my buddie welded two posts that will stick through the hood, drill holes for clips, so you can remove the posts. then the auger minus the power head will bungie across the hood. also make sure to cover tour power head, as snow dust will cover it at the back of your sled. just use a bag with a pull string, and pull it tight and tie it shut.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

jerkin, yea, send some pics, allways looking for new ideas. thetlas at loretel dot net.

knoppers, ive been looking for a bag w/draw string w/out much luck, any ideas? all ive used so far is a 2"x2"x1" thick pc of neoprene wedged inbetween the fuel tank and the carb inlet, it works great for keeping snow out of the carb but the bag would help too.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'll admit, jerkin's rack is functional and it has taken a beating. I just can't believe nobody manufacturers an after-market rack. The only one I've seen is for a Bearcat and the reason that works is the tunnel extends past the original rack, allowing for significantly more weight-bearing. I saw a couple outfitted with these at the Ice Show.

I have an '02 Panther and the original rack says not to exceed 35 lbs or you'll damage the tunnel. My question is if I find an aluminum fabricator, one that is capable of welding a design, how do I redistribute the extra weight? Will I need to drill more holes, further up the tunnel? Does anyone have examples of designs of aluminum racks that have worked for them? My biggest worry is redistributing the weight. I don't neeed to carry my fish house - just an auger and some extra gear. And I really don't want to drill holes in my hood.

FYI - The Bearcat rack is pictured here: http://www.planetarcticcat.com/pac3/images/items/3639-852.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • Red neck fix- take a belt sander and sand a flat spot in the caters so they won’t turn and you are set
    • What you want exists. I used to work for a company that produced a standing chair and I saw parts like that. The trick will be sourcing them in the quantity you need. might want to check with Grainger or McMaster-carr.   How about splurging on your Mom and getting her a new table and chairs set? Might be easier.😀
    • The legs are fairly long/wide rectangular and so I don't see this type of thing working.  What I would really like would be some sort of device that had the shaft but a flat piece of plastic rather than the casters.  But I've never seen anything like that.
    • Couldn't you pry them off with a channel locks and put a rubber chair-table leg cap on them?   
    • Mom just got wooden flooring installed in her kitchen.  The chairs she has have casters, the ones with the shaft that gets inserted into the sleeve on the bottom of the leg.  We'd like to get something was just a flat piece that wouldn't move so easily.  Concern is that the 93-year-old will take a tumble if the chairs moves as she sits down.  
    • It was a flooded camper to start.  $400 basically I paid for a rolling shell.  Here is Iowa not much ice yet, Okoboji should cap tonight.  So hopefully in a couple weeks we will be fishing.  Im wiring it tonight and insulation late this week.  Hopefully we will be done before the 1st of the year or so.   
    • When I built my wheelhouse 5 years ago I wanted total wheel alignment capability. I designed my axles around bolt on wheel hubs with ability to compound shim achieving correct camber and toe. Saw way too many boat trailers with serious worn tires due to hubs welded to axels. (Tire in photo attached to 2x4 was used during build so I could cut the grass.)
    • Wow, you really stripped her down.  Nice work so far, but you better keep working. The ice is getting thicker by the day!  😄
    • https://www.google.com/search?q=snowmobile+rentals+in+minnesota&oq=snow+mobil+rentals+in+minn&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j0l7.21556j0j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8   try this..
×
×
  • Create New...