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Deadsticking?


Philo

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Kind of new to deadsticking and need some advice. Let me get this straight - basically deadsticking means fishing with a minnow and sinker, no float. You are then supposed to watch the tip of your rod for bites. Is this correct? Any suggestions for a good deadsticking pole - I checked out TB and noticed they have a pole designed for deadsticking. Anyone else make a good deadsticking rod for less money? Do you guys have success deadsticking and are there places, times, species, etc.. that respond better to deadsticking than others? Don't the fish feel the resistance and spit out the bait?

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The article is very accurate to what I have found. I use a very flimsy rod with a spring bobber on my deadsticks. I also use a clip on holder to hold the rod on the very butt, not layed across a bucket to get maximum flex. I like jigging a swedish pimple aggressively in between a minnow and a maggot. Find what they want, but you can often bring them in with the pimple. It's similar to drilling another hole next to your tip-ups and jigging the spoon in that hole to attract fish to your tip-up. Dave

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The time of day doesn't always dictate when to use a deadstick line. I've done well during twilight periods, after dark and during the day.

The purpose of a deadstick is to provide something different for the target fish and to have a presentation that will allow the fish to take the offering with ease, and in return it feels little or no resistance. This is something that is very important when finesse fishing or when targeting negative fish. But, don't let deadsticking only apply to when fish are negative. Using a deadstick line can be used no matter what state the fish are in. My biggest walleye last winter came off a deadstick line and I'd consider the activity level of the fish that day as aggressive. The deadstick line just gives you an advantage on what types of presentations you are offering to the fish. You can aggssively work a jigging spoon on one rod and then drop down a lively minnow (or dead minnow) on a deadstick line and see what rig gets hit. This allows you to determine what approach is more effective.

You can work a deadstick however you want. I prefer to use small jiggles followed by long pauses (often times several minutes long). When fish appear on the flasher and seem interested in the deadstick, I'll sometimes slowly raise it up and away from the fish, this drives them crazy, and if they are going to strike they usually do it then, or atleast make a solid attempt. Other times I'll just let the presentation sit in the fish's face, that holds especially true when deadsticking maggots for panfish or perch. They like to inspect the bait and take it at their own pace, too much activity will drive them off sometimes. The maggot will do the work, even though you might think that the maggot is sitting still, its not. Fish pick up those tiny micro-scopic movements and thats what trigger them into biting. Panfish and perch (as well as other species) focus primaily on plankton and zooplankton during the winter months, and they have adapted (and inherited) intricate senses for picking up things like small quivers and such. So, let the deadstick and the presentation do most of the work.

Deadsticking is a phenomenal way to ice fish. A lot of situations call for a deadstick line and for a variety of species. Crappies, walleyes and perch are always prime examples of species that can be targted with a deadstick approach. I've been experimenting a lot more with catfish through the ice too. Deadsticking can be the means for success some days out on the ice.

Good Fishin,

Matt Johnson

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So, how is deadsticking different from bobber fishing. I understand how they are different on the top side. But isn't what the fish sees the same? Isn't resistence similar if the bobber is the right size?

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Yes, the resistance when deadsticking is similar to a properly balanced bobber rig. But, with a deadstick you are more open to quick and decisive depth changes, and you can set the rod back down and focus on the jigging rod, where as with a bobber rig you have to readjust the slipknot everytime you choose to change depths. Reeling in line or letting line out is simple and easy with a deadstick rig, and this allows you to efficiently cover the entire water cloumn and adjust to where the fish are.

The purpose of a deadstick is to get that "finesse" stationary approach without using a bobber. The Ice Buster Bobber is phenomenal, and I use them all winter long, but that is mostly when I know what the depth the fish come in at, and if the fish are more aggressive and I'm mostly focusing on the jigging rod. A properly balanced Ice Buster Bobber is tough to beat as far as the amount of resistance a fish feels, but deadsticking also allows you to hole hop and cover the entire water column, where as with a bobber you are stuck at the depth where the bobber is positioned.

For example, if I punched a series of holes across a 25 foot depression, and say the crappies are in a negative mood roaming anywhere from on the bottom to 10 feet up. If I aggressively jig these fish I might come up empty handed, and if I rig up a bobber rig I'm limited to one depth. What if I'm fishing one hole and I have my bobber rig set up so my jig is about 10 feet off the bottom, but then a couple fish show up about a foot off the bottom? Keep in mind that these fish are in a negative mood, and aggressive jigging is out, the fish need a few seconds to pan over the bait before they choose to strike...the bait needs to be still. So, with the bobber rig I'm stuck at that 10 foot depth unless I reel up and change the depth of the slipknot, but by then those spooked fish are gone, but if I had a deadstick rod I just slowly let out some line and drop down to the fish's level and then let the rod sit. Sure, when the situation reverses itself the bobber rig works fine, but often times, when dealing with crappies, we are focusing on suspended fish and we are up off the bottom to begin with. The deadstick rig just gives you more flexibilty.

When fishing two rods you can afford to use a bobber rig, where with the bobber rig you can target one depth, and work the rest of the water column with a jigging rod or deadstick. I've had days where I'll fish with two deadsticks, and that will be the only way to pick up fish.

Good Fishin,

Matt Johnson

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You can buy rods where spring bobbers are already added. Deadsticking rods already have light tips so you don't really need an added spring bobber. You can if you want to, but it's not needed. It won't effect the action if thats what you are wondering. You will still have the same action when fighting a fish because the spring bobber will give way and you will have whatever action the rod is designed to have. I would add a spring bobber to rods that don't really have sensitive tips (non-deadstick rods). This way you have a strike indicator that can be added to any rod. Only problem with this is that you have a short range of motion before the fish feels resistance. But, if you use some sort of deadsticking holder, like the Rod Strap by Todays Tackle or the Rock-n-Reel by TBone then it will work just fine.

Deadstick rods often times have bright colored tips, like orange or chartreuse. The tips bend easy yet the backbone is still solid. A few brands that make rods specifically designed for deadsticking: Thorne Bros, Croxton Pond, Frabill, HT Enterprises...

Good Fishin,

Matt Johnson

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Matt has definitely covered the realm of deadsticking very thoroughly.

I would just like to add how I discovered deadsticking. I believe I read about it in an In-Fisherman magazine. The idea was to just leave a rod alone and jig with the other rod. I guess... Well, half of a day of doing this didn't really prove me anything confused.gif

A few weeks later, I added rod holders to my portable. These just happened to be Otter rod holders. At the same time I also was experiencing my slip bobber knots moving on my line. When you were marking fish on your flasher and were readjusting your slip bobber knot because it moved everytime you reeled in a fish, you had to search for a solution. So I just ditched the bobber, let enough line down to meet the blips on the flaher, and stuck the rod in the holder.

I found that this approach is pretty much hit or miss due to the rod & holder I was using. The fish that hit would hook themselves or they wouldn't. If I were using a rod holder such as the Rock-n-Reel or RodStrap, or a purposefully designed deadstick rod, there would be a little more forgiveness in the system and you would be able to detect a bite before the fish hooked himself.

For me, it was something I just kind of discovered and have found the technique to be very effective. Give it a shot, it is not the go-to technique everytime you are out but works effectively a lot of the time.

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Ohice -

Any rod will work, but it is better to have one designed for it like Matt said. Good backbone with a nice soft tip is ideal.

With the Rock & Reel, a longer butt section with the reel mounted back a bit farther than normal will get you a nuetral balance point.

Once you acheive that, you can detect very light biters that take the bait in either up or down directions.

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A good rule of thumb for rod selection is when you have a small crappie minnow on, it should be able to move the rod tip noticeably. If you can't see the rod tip pulsing up and down about a half inch or so, your tip is too firm. The spring bobber gives you added time to get the rod in hand before the fish feels the resistance. With a 3-4" long spring bobber, a fish can pull the bait down 2" before it starts bending the rod and feeling resistance.

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Can you guys recommend some rods that are made for deadsticking? as you can see from my handle I am from Ohio. our local shops don't have a very good selection of ice tackle.so I will be ordering on-line.

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Thorne Bros offers a deadstick rod that you can purchase online, a little spendy but you get what you pay for. Frabill also has a couple different deadstick options, as does HT Enterprises, Croxton Pond, South Bend and others...

Good Fishin,

Matt Johnson

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The power noodle is an excellent choice. The tip is fast on this rod and you'll be able to detect light bites.

The Cabelas rods are nice too from what I've seen. I don't have a lot of "in the field" experience with the Cabelas rods but if you can find one with a sensitive tip designed for panfish then I'm sure it will work fine.

Good Fishin,

Matt Johnson

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Deadstick jigs for crappies...

Horizontal jigs seem to work the best for me. I like Ratso's, JR's Tackle Ice Minnows, Genz Bugs, Bro Bugs, Fatboys...these are a few options. I had a lot of success with glow red last winter. I typically put one or two maggots on these, or else if I can find really small "pin-nail" minnows I'll use those. I'll also use plain finesse plastics like the Ratso or Shrimpo, they both work well on a deadstick because the finesse tail will quiver periodically even after you jiggle it and let it sit. Drives panfish crazy.

Vertical jigs will work well too, but I've had better luck with horizontal jigs for deadsticking and for most of my crappie fishing through the ice. Ice flies can work on occasion too. The new Nuclear Powered Ants by Custom Jigs and Spins should be a good vertical option for deadsticking this winter.

And to be honest, a plain hook often times out produces jigs when deadsticking. I'll use a small hook, like say a size 12 or so, and I'll thread on one or two lively maggots, or a small lively minnow. I like to hook the minnow upside-down when deadsticking, the reason for this is that the minnow is constantly trying to upright itself, and its a constant struggle, but yet it can't swim all over the place. A minnow that is too lively and is swimming in large circular motions might work negatively towards fish. By hooking the minnow upside-down it takes away from that and you don't have to use a split-shot (sinker) to keep the minnow in place and the crappie will feel less resistance as a result of that. You might spend more time lowering the minnow through the water, but then again you are fishng for negative fish and sometimes you have to go to extremes to catch the fish. You can also clip the tail, that works too.

For walleyes I like to use a plain hook and a small to medium shiner minnow when deadsticking. Crappie minnows, fatheads, retails and small suckers will work too. Although I like to stay small when deadsticking for walleyes because I'm often times fishing a negative bite. A big misconception of ice fishing for walleyes is that you always have to use jigging spoons, swimming lures, flyer jigs, minnows, etc...but I've had better luck down sizing for walleyes in the winter. I'll even target walleyes with maggots quite often too. A size 8 Ratso caught a lot of walleyes last winter for me, same with a 1/16oz jigging spoon or a size 10 JR's Tackle Ice Minnow packed with maggots. Same can be done when deadsticking for walleyes. Don't be afraid to down size and work a crappie minnow when deadsticking for walleyes, it doesn't always have to be a shiner or fathead.

Some of the jigs I prefer for walleyes when deadsticking are a variety of Jig-a-Whopper Hawger jigs, JR's Tackle Swimmin' Jig, flutter spoons, a variety of size 8 and 6 horizontal panfish jigs (Ratso's, Ice Minnows, Genz Worms...), just to name a few. I'll also work jigging spoons or swimming lures on a deadstick rig from time to time depending on the mood of the fish.

There are a lot of options for presentations under a deadstick, and I always find myself finding something new every winter that seems to outproduce the next, but I always find that I keep things smaller in profile. During the winter, when making size changes, we usually down size more often than we up size, where during open water it might be the opposite. A fish's metabolism decreases during the winter and they are less likely to constantly devour larger baits like they are during open water. Once midwinter takes hold (when I do the majority of my deadsticking) the fish (especially crappies) are used to feeding on micro organisms and rely heavily on a zooplankton or micro-worm diet. The twitch of a finesse plastic or the wiggle of a tiny maggot imitates what they want. Let the presentation do the work under a deadstick and everything else will fall in line.

Good Fishin,

Matt Johnson

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I also thought Thorne bros custom rods were too expensive.

Look at it this way. Is a walleye worth less to you in the winter?

Would you spend $50.00 or $60.00 for a top of the line rod for summer use?

Once I bought my first sweetheart rod, the other 4 were easier to buy. They are great rods.

Last year I pulled a 38.5" northern through the ice with my Thorne bros Dead stick, no problem.

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Thanks Matt. Very well said! On top of your suggestions, I've had good luck with two minnows on the same hook, facing opposite directions. I call it "double meat". I know it sounds crazy and my buddy gave me plenty of lip over it, but after I out fished him on it, he too was double meating it. Thanks for all your suggestions.

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Good tip rod bender! Two minnows throws a curve ball at the fish and it will trigger a lot of reaction strikes. Something new to the fish. It's kind of like wacky rigging a waxworm (or t-boning), you get a unique action that the fish aren't accustom to seeing, and you get a lot of reaction strikes from that.

Good one rod bender!

Good Fishin,

Matt Johnson

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