Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. 😀

  • Connect, BE BRAVE - We Share Fishing Reports & Outdoor Information Here


            TURKEY CONTEST "Post Your Thoughts" - Leave YOUR mark, make each place you visit "a little better"! Post please......

        HSO Turkey Contest - Sign-up by April 1st. - Click Here.

        EMOJI those posts you 'appreciate, please...IF YOU WANT MORE LIKE IT HERE..'

        Have Fun!!!

rl_sd

House Furnace/AC in Garage

Recommended Posts

I am looking at putting up a 30x36 detached garage and have been throwing around the idea of heating and cooling it w/ a house furnace. I have the line on a cheap 80%, coil and compressor for < $400. I figured that I would go w/ 80% so that I could shut the heat off in the winter if I wanted too (Non-condensing furnace). Has anyone else done this? Pros/cons?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

What type of construction, stick or post frame? How will you have it insulated?

 

have you considered in floor heat?

I built a 28x32 detached garage a few years ago. When I poured my floor I put the pex down. I dont have anything hooked up yet but its on to do list. I did 2x6 construction with spray foam walls and blow in insulation in the attic. It stays pretty warm just as it is with no heat out there yet.

 

 

Edited by rundrave

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Stick built, 2x6 walls, 10' ceilings, batt and blown. Thought about putting together a floor heat system, but the cost of the boiler system has me thinking otherwise.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Del. I was wondering for those that have did it before how the recovery time was after opening doors or coming up to heat after a few days. I’d like to run it 40 deg during the week but bump it up to 50-55 when I am out there. I’m hoping with a 75k btu that my recovery time will be short. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
36 minutes ago, rl_sd said:

Thanks Del. I was wondering for those that have did it before how the recovery time was after opening doors or coming up to heat after a few days. I’d like to run it 40 deg during the week but bump it up to 50-55 when I am out there. I’m hoping with a 75k btu that my recovery time will be short. 


The recovery time is slow for in floor heat.  If you’re going to open the doors on a regular basis I’d give more consideration to forced air.  If not, I’m sure you’d be fine.  In floor is also slow to dissipate.  In a garage, you’d either need to add glycol to the system or have a back up heat source in case of failure for freeze protection.  Adding glycol isn’t a huge deal but it decreases efficiency a bit and adds another maintenance item manage.


Fun project though!  I built one of similar size at my last house but didn’t hang the heater.  I found I didn’t spend as much time out there as I expected.  Sad thing is I moved the heater with me!

 

If you want a 100,000 btu Reznor with a 10 inch stack. Let me know! 😄  It was take out from a warehouse.  I don’t think I’ll ever use it at my current house.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, rl_sd said:

Thanks Del. I was wondering for those that have did it before how the recovery time was after opening doors or coming up to heat after a few days. I’d like to run it 40 deg during the week but bump it up to 50-55 when I am out there. I’m hoping with a 75k btu that my recovery time will be short. 

 

My daughter has a 3 car attached garage with one of those hot dog type heaters.   Opening the door for a short time and then closing it doesn't seem to have too much effect.   The problem with heating up from 40 to 55 or so that will take a while is that the floor and walls and the contents are all cold and take a while to get up to temp.  so the air might be warm but heater will need to work harder because of all the cold stuff in there.   

 

If I did the calculation correctly, heating the air takes about 200 btu per degree or 3000 btu for 15 degrees F.  If your furnace puts out 60k (75 k input) that is 5% of an hour's worth or a couple minutes.   

 

Seems like not much, but it doesn't take much energy to heat 9000 cubic feet of air.  Please feel free to check my numbers, since I did the arithmetic in my head and I could easily have misplaced a decimal point.    

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had purchased a used 80k btu house furnace for my garage only to find out it was against code to put in there. Combustible fumes at floor level was the reason why. I sure liked the radiant tube heaters but did not have enough height to install. They heat the objects in the garage, and can bake paint on the car if installed too low. I ended up with a forced air ceiling mount, larger than needed to heat quickly when I need to use the garage. I don't heat if I'm not out there.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My boiler needed to be on a platform a few feet up off the ground in order to meet code in my garage.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
32 minutes ago, Grainbelt said:

I had purchased a used 80k btu house furnace for my garage only to find out it was against code to put in there. Combustible fumes at floor level was the reason why. I sure liked the radiant tube heaters but did not have enough height to install. They heat the objects in the garage, and can bake paint on the car if installed too low. I ended up with a forced air ceiling mount, larger than needed to heat quickly when I need to use the garage. I don't heat if I'm not out there.

hmmmmm..... I may need to do some checking on codes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, rl_sd said:

hmmmmm..... I may need to do some checking on codes.

 

I would consult your home owners insurance agent also. I know my garage had some restrictions also in terms of what they would cover in terms of heat source. I cant remember what they all were but would be something to check on also with what your policy covers.

Edited by rundrave

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Usually your home insurance will worry if you have a solid fuel device such as a wood stove or a pellet stove to heat the garage but it is always a good idea to check with your agent for your policy coverage and verify that you are not causing a coverage issue.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I did some checking... Having it detached makes a difference. They stated that it should be 18" off the ground, so I am going to install it on top of a cold return box

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have an attached 23 X 33 garage with a spancrete ceiling.  I put in a gas furnace about 10 years ago and it has a simple plenum that sits atop the furnace and only puts the heat out in one direction about 4 feet above the ground.  The garage stays above freezing without the furnace being on.  When I want to warm it up I turn the furnace on and in 2-3 hours it is comfortable.  But the heat stratifies and so it a problem.  With your 10 foot ceiling you may have a problem.  Couple of ceiling fans might help out a lot.  But as Delchecci pointed out the contents of the building are a big heat sink and will take a long time to warm up.

 

One think that I was wondering about was whether having the garage warm in the winter would accelerate the rust of my truck due to the salt.  I guess I don't really know the answer and maybe that's just the price of this type of setup.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Tom. I am sure that recover will be any issue after pulling in a cold vehicle, but I would have the same problem no matter what fan forced unit I went with. Radiant heat would be a little better and in-floor would be the best. If the house unit was purely for heat, I would probably be going a different direction... but since I also plan on having AC in the garage, this was my best choice for two birds w/ one stone at a reasonable cost

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • Congrats Wanderer.  Thanks for the participation award again!
    • Looked did then realized I don't believe his taste buds. He purposely was drinking Miller Lite. Yuk
    • I’d say it depends on how fast we want results and what the public will tolerate.  I do think a closure during their most vulnerable time is worth serious consideration.  We close the season for other fish for the same reason.  Now we’re realizing the never ending supply of quality panfish does really have an end.   It’s really going to be up to us to understand and accept the facts about how we affect the fisheries.  Getting this information out there and talking with each other is a big help.  I personally know several people who have changed their view on filling the live well or bucket with the most and biggest panfish they can to self imposed limits.  But I also know several people who are still proud as can be to bring home that pile of upper end fish, and worse yet making several repeat trips and bringing others with to do the same.  It’s hard to tell friends what their doing isn’t helpful.   One group of people can substantially fish down smaller lakes in 1-3 years and they’re fine with that.  On to the next lake.  I literally heard that just yesterday.  The limit was dropped on that particular lake to 5 this spring and that has curbed the number of trips they’ve been taking out there.  To me, it doesn’t get to be any clearer than that.   Minky, your practice sounds like what we need to get that 10% group of takers to adopt.
    • Wanderer, any ideas? Would the reduced limit and one over 9 or 10 inches be enough? Should there be a short season closure in the late winter / early spring?  Only catch and release in May and June. I love catching them, eating a few and releasing the rest.
    • here is a new idea to try:  
    • I would have to say that Wanderer is the biggest turkey so he gets my vote. 😀
    • I was out at a local lake last night and found the gills on beds with a few crappies mixed in.  I was learning the lake and planned on keeping moving and targeting bass but couldn’t resist pulling a few pannies in.  As always it was fun but I didn’t keep any and ran into several beds. They were topping out at a solid 8 inches on the board.   As I moved along I could see someone down the line, I thought maybe he was fishing bass also but he didn’t move until I got within about 75 yards.  When I got to the spot he was fishing there was another set of beds but I couldn’t see a fish on them.  Threw my bait in and didn’t get bit.     I’ve been that guy before but I’ve seen that scenario play out too many times to be OK with it anymore.  I know the panfish get hammered all winter and that’s probably putting the biggest hurt on the population but stripping the beds is something we really need to curb IMO.
    • Yes - absolutely thank you to Borch for running this again!   And thanks to everyone who entered!  Having the contest and getting some encouragement helped me get more back in tune to the spring turkey season than I have been lately.  And learn the lesson (again) to not under estimate what’s available and what can happen for anyone.
    • Yes- a cheap go pro knock off. 
    • Congrats Wanderer!  Thanks once again Borch for doing this. 
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.