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Ok, so I took the SS Minnow out for her maiden voyage this Saturday. The motor usually starts on the second, third or fourth pull. I usually have to choke it for 1-2 pulls then open the choke and it starts on the 3rd or 4th pull. The throttle has to be wide open or it won't start. 

 

Just like in the barrel, it will not keep running at low idle. It does idle down pretty far but not all the way. I drove it at full throttle all the way around our small lake and it ran perfect and purrs like a kitten until I try to idle it down.6

 

Here's what I've done so far:

 

New gas/oil

Seafoam

Removed carb, took apart and cleaned all parts, jets, ports, etc

Took fuel pump apart and cleaned all pieces

Adjusted low speed idle needle

Ran it for almost an hour in the lake

 

Here's what I'm going to try next:

 

Rebuild fuel pump 

Change spark plugs

 

After that, i will be out of ideas.

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Posted (edited)

Don't forget to look at the hose, connecting ends, cap seal and rust inside that old gas tank.

But, the old Seahorse may just want to run at full speed! 😄

 

Edited by leech~~

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I googled it for you.  One thing mentioned was that it is difficult to get the smaller openings, like for the idle, clean.  Soaking was recommended.   

 

That was first thing suggested.   Compression check was another.  The starting procedure seems unusual so that might mean something.

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I don't know what it cost to rebuild but that Juerissen guy right outside of town will have a new one. I think mine was like 65 bucks if I remember correctly.

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Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, delcecchi said:

I googled it for you.  One thing mentioned was that it is difficult to get the smaller openings, like for the idle, clean.  Soaking was recommended.   

 

That was first thing suggested.   Compression check was another.  The starting procedure seems unusual so that might mean something.

 

Believe me, I googled it too and watched many videos. If you could see how simple the carb is and how clean it was before I even started you might see how I am now operating under the premise that the carb is clean. If the issue doesn't resolve after I rebuild the fuel pump I guess I could remove the carb again and reclean. I have an Echo weed whip that I have to replace the diaphram about every 2 years or it acts similarly.  I'm hoping that is what it is but I won't know for almost 2 weeks when we are able to go back up north.

Edited by Big Dave2

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You might want to clean and replace Reed Valves before er-doing carbs. Ther have a tendency to bow and contact surface gets cruddy with age.

1563223679_Screenshot_20190807-103318_SamsungInternet.thumb.jpg.fb3049f4f3dd8a35d8c89db38ae3a71b.jpg

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Not to be a richard, but new plugs should have been automatic as soon as that motor got pulled from storage and clamped on the transom and even if not then it should have went along with the carb clean.  

 

I sorta doubt that's the problem though.

 

I am starting to give del's ignition system ideas more of a thought.  It is def possible that weak spark happens at low rpms.

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, roony said:

junk it

 

Why? I'd bet for what he is going to use it for even if he can't get it to idle down like a new one it will meet his needs very well.

Edited by Juneau4

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11 hours ago, Big Dave2 said:

 

Believe me, I googled it too and watched many videos. If you could see how simple the carb is and how clean it was before I even started you might see how I am now operating under the premise that the carb is clean. If the issue doesn't resolve after I rebuild the fuel pump I guess I could remove the carb again and reclean. I have an Echo weed whip that I have to replace the diaphram about every 2 years or it acts similarly.  I'm hoping that is what it is but I won't know for almost 2 weeks when we are able to go back up north.

 

Sounds like crank seals sucking air.

 

 

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14 hours ago, Juneau4 said:

Why? I'd bet for what he is going to use it for even if he can't get it to idle down like a new one it will meet his needs very well.

Best fix your sarcasm detector.

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