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Hawg

Kdrill/pistol Bit Flighting Question.

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Why does K drill have the unusual flighting and pistol bit the traditional style? I used a K drill and wasn't impressed (please don't bad mouth me I just didn't like it) because it seemed to bind and had to be continually lifted to clear the flighting. Being an Ion owner I'm also impressed with the Eskimo shaver blades. Incredible durability, smoothness, and they stay sharp for me unlike lazers. Anybody know the science behind flighting and if the Pistol bit would clean holes better. It's too early to get owners opinions on the pistol bit because the only guys that have them are the ones that get paid or free product to say great things about them.

Also-Eskimo HSOforum says 8 inch is a full 8-may or may not be the case.

Edited by Hawg

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I agree, the K-Drill does seem to bind and bog down needing frequent clearing. I use Mora Strikemaster, and Eskimo bits. Buddies use ION all work well with better ice shaving dispersing. I did some research on auger flights looking for an alternative to build an auger. Acquired some grain auger flights 7” pitch. Note the design has 5/6 flight, no gap when stacked. (Labeled Grain in pic). I included pics of the K-Drill, Pistol, Nils & Mora Hand Strikemaster. K-drill & Pistol use poly flights with Hex shaft. Other 2 are welded steel to smaller steel shaft. Also note the K-drill has 6 flights with a gap between every 5/6th turn where Pistol has 3 flights & Nils 4 to achieve total lift distance. Also note the dia. Of the K-drill is much larger than the others reducing feed depth, (amount of room between shaft and pitch dia.). The Mora has 5.625 pitch height about same for Nils, looks like Pistol has close to 7” pitch with polished surface and K-Drill closer to 4.4”. The pitch on the Grain is also 7”. I believe the smaller pitch distance, open gaps between flights an smaller feed depth is creating the binding on the K-Drill

20181124_073931.png.2cda5f00bf67a61abe379c3698dc1e4b.png

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Doing a little more checking I didn't notice till yesterday the Pistol does't have a centering tip, which made a TON of difference in the ease of use on my newer ION.  I would have thought Eskimo would have learned a lesson and put a tip on it. 

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25 minutes ago, papadarv said:

I agree, the K-Drill does seem to bind and bog down needing frequent clearing. I use Mora Strikemaster, and Eskimo bits. Buddies use ION all work well with better ice shaving dispersing. I did some research on auger flights looking for an alternative to build an auger. Acquired some grain auger flights 7” pitch. Note the design has 5/6 flight, no gap when stacked. (Labeled Grain in pic). I included pics of the K-Drill, Pistol, Nils & Mora Hand Strikemaster. K-drill & Pistol use poly flights with Hex shaft. Other 2 are welded steel to smaller steel shaft. Also note the K-drill has 6 flights with a gap between every 5/6th turn where Pistol has 3 flights & Nils 4 to achieve total lift distance. Also note the dia. Of the K-drill is much larger than the others reducing feed depth, (amount of room between shaft and pitch dia.). The Mora has 5.625 pitch height about same for Nils, looks like Pistol has close to 7” pitch with polished surface and K-Drill closer to 4.4”. The pitch on the Grain is also 7”. I believe the smaller pitch distance, open gaps between flights an smaller feed depth is creating the binding on the K-Drill

20181124_073931.png.2cda5f00bf67a61abe379c3698dc1e4b.png

 

I think your examples are right on. The K-Drill chews up a lot of ice fast but the flights don't pull it up the hole well like the others and it just makes a nice slushy in the hole. That's why they suggest to keep pulling it up during drilling is to clear the chips out.

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22 hours ago, Hawg said:

Doing a little more checking I didn't notice till yesterday the Pistol does't have a centering tip, which made a TON of difference in the ease of use on my newer ION.  I would have thought Eskimo would have learned a lesson and put a tip on it. 

 

My thoughts exactly. Still tempted to try to put some sort of center point on my Ion, but afraid it will mess up the blade design. These things can be a bear inside a wheel house on rough ice

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Papadarv,

the pic of the Mora auger blades doesn’t look like what I’m used to?  It almost looks like there is some sort of centering bit and also some half circle areas of the blades are removed?

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1 hour ago, rickwalley said:

Papadarv,

the pic of the Mora auger blades doesn’t look like what I’m used to?  It almost looks like there is some sort of centering bit and also some half circle areas of the blades are removed?

 

I think on another post he said that he added the point and did work on the blades. 

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Leech, correct. I modified my 8" Mora Strikemaster blades per pic. I had a single centered point like the one on my 10" Eskimo. Didn't work well. Found a design that solves add on center point challange. The point of the center point is off set 1/4". I put this point on 3 bits. All work.great.

20181124_143004.thumb.jpg.6bfff79b125ece72efff1bb46c549d97.jpg

 

Edited by papadarv

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