Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

Empire Dv 215 Help


rl_sd

Recommended Posts

This summer I bought a used house 6.5x12  that has an empire DV-215 heater in it. When I bought it I checked to make sure that the heater worked but never went much farther than that. Last night I decided to time how long it took to heat up. The house is a sprayfoamed ridgeline and took 20 min to go from 34 deg to 70 degree with an outside temp of 25 deg. All of my other permie houses have been fan forced so I am not sure what to expect. The one thing that I did notice is that the flame in the empire heater doesn’t get very high. I did a search and read that the primary flame doesn't get very high... but also read that guys were having issues with secondary flames. For all you empire owners...Is this normal? Here is a picture and video. Let me know what you guys think?

 

 

4A889CEE-FA30-4E51-A929-0C82931B6485.thumb.jpeg.35db2dda9106068a57c0ace4e5f1b70d.jpeg

Edited by rl_sd
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Your DV215 heater is 15,000 BTU direct vent. Unlike ventless, direct vent has about an 80% effency so your effective heating is about 12,000 BTU. Once your house is warm walls, table, storage space, all the inside solid material, it has ability to maintain  temp even at -20. The flame in your video is normal for 15k.  I had a 12k BTU forced air in my 6.5 x 12 non sleeper well sealed & insulated cycled 4 to 5 times per hr. at -20 at 70 inside. It took about an hour to heat from 0 to 70 below 0 so I used my 15k sunflower for 10 to 15 min to help pre heat. Also use electric space heat running overnight before I go fishing. Pic is my 12k burner at 12.8k. 15k has longer burn bar.

 

Now I installed a new 19k Surburban forced air. Today heated to 70 in about 7 min. 

 

20160714_134834.thumb.jpg.88a6e587840f5b93687c9d94479731fa.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks guys. I appreciate the help. Going to look at mounting some fans in the bottom. Otherwise I’ll bring the BigBuddy along to get things up to temp. Just wanted to make sure that it was heating correctly. Like I said, the fan forced suburban seems instantaneous. Didn’t expect the same results from this one, but will still appreciate having a lower dependency on batteries. Here’s some pics on the second house. Going to use it on early ice and also for overflow when the nieces come out. I call it “Plan B”

 

46295402-2BFE-4970-AF02-2BAB1FFAA43E.jpeg.0b45574f8003d98a034fe97d7fb52e9e.jpeg

 

3B00F1B1-7E1E-4654-9B20-7C7D2071D6EA.jpeg.430d71450f9fd57c6c8acdb173969166.jpeg

 

86EF6D81-7242-4DD2-9BC1-FB01838D9586.jpeg.19940bf898b01b80590052302d323185.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On my 12k I used 3 computer fans to move air across my heat  chamber to heat house. 200 ma ea. or .6 amp total. Very small drain on 2 parallel deep cycle. Still use the computer fans on my new suburban set up with switch to turn off when not needed. They move a lot of air on so little power drain.

 

If your 4 lights are iridescent I would replace them with LED`s. 

Edited by papadarv
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have an older Empire 40,000 btu vent-free in my garage to take the chill out when working on sleds and stuff. The flame looks just like what you posted above. Fans to move the heat around are a good idea. I actually have a big house fan I put on low sitting right on top of it to move the heat around the garage!

Edited by leech~~
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, rl_sd said:

Thanks papa. Lights are LED. Do you know what the CFM of the computer fans are? 

I think about 40 cfm per fan 120 for all 3. Simular to this one. Got them 4 years ago.

https://www.jameco.com/z/AD0712HS-D73-ADDA-Corporation-12VDC-Sleeve-Brushless-Fan-32-17-CFM-70x70x15-mm_2232930.html?CID=GOOG&gclid=CjwKCAiA_ZTfBRBjEiwAN6YG4TPp5M-paHQEydLDe-J-tkkqjWtoJyEhByaSb5P2GBO27m9bIfruURoCiL0QAvD_BwE

They are mounted inside my 2x12" duct going from heater 1/2 way to back of hoese.You can see the control switch under the fan area.

 

20181109_093823.jpg.16df559d34a73f9401b438f893766947.jpg

Edited by papadarv
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, papadarv said:

I think about 40 cfm per fan 120 for all 3. Simular to this one. Got them 4 years ago.

https://www.jameco.com/z/AD0712HS-D73-ADDA-Corporation-12VDC-Sleeve-Brushless-Fan-32-17-CFM-70x70x15-mm_2232930.html?CID=GOOG&gclid=CjwKCAiA_ZTfBRBjEiwAN6YG4TPp5M-paHQEydLDe-J-tkkqjWtoJyEhByaSb5P2GBO27m9bIfruURoCiL0QAvD_BwE

They are mounted inside my 2x12" duct going from heater 1/2 way to back of hoese.You can see the control switch under the fan area.

 

20181109_093823.jpg.16df559d34a73f9401b438f893766947.jpg

 

You mounted the PC fans right in the heat duct? That is a pretty cool idea. I wonder how much heat they can take for so long? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, leech~~ said:

 

You mounted the PC fans right in the heat duct? That is a pretty cool idea. I wonder how much heat they can take for so long? 

Been running 4 years. The temp at the fan is under 120 F. about the same as the hot air duct on a home furnace. I ues a flashlight through the end duct cap checking rotation perodicitly. Still working with my new 19k Suburban install.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do all of you use the snap igniter to light the pilot flame?  I’ve never been able to get it to work......maybe it’s a cold weather thing.  I’ve always had to open the sight window and use a lighter like used to light a fireplace gas log in a home.  I have about a 8’ or 9’ gas hose run from tanks to heater and always take a fair amount of time to purge the line at initial setup at start off a weekend trip.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for all the info fellas! I ended up buying two 140 mm fans, but have only installed one.  I decided to take it one step further and install a thermo fan switch. I actually ended up buying the switch and mounting plate directly from empire for $30. This way the fan cycles with the heat. The switch kicks in about 5 min after the heat turns on and runs from about 5 min after it turns off. Using the switch should keep things more consistent.  I wired it up to a SPDT On-Off-On switch so that I can run it either in thermoswitch mode or manual.

 

As far as the fans go, the 140 mm seem are quieter and draw less (0.16 amp) than the 120 mm fans due to the reduced RPM requirements. One thing that I did notice though is that although they are rated high on the CFM scale, they do not seem to have near as much pressure as the smaller fans. I understand why that is, but not sure if the lower pressure will make a difference in pushing air over the heat exchanger. That was one reason that I left room for two

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, rl_sd said:

Thanks for all the info fellas! I ended up buying two 140 mm fans, but have only installed one.  I decided to take it one step further and install a thermo fan switch. I actually ended up buying the switch and mounting plate directly from empire for $30. This way the fan cycles with the heat. The switch kicks in about 5 min after the heat turns on and runs from about 5 min after it turns off. Using the switch should keep things more consistent.  I wired it up to a SPDT On-Off-On switch so that I can run it either in thermoswitch mode or manual.

 

 

Bummer, should have noted the digital temp controller I used on my furnace/fan set up. These things are awsome for running fans based on heat. Link to one of many sellers. You can set on/off temps anyware from -50 to +250.

 

https://www.hsolist.com/itm/NEW-12V-24V-110V-220V-STC-1000-Digital-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat-w-NTC/153062796516?_trkparms=aid=555018&algo=PL.SIM&ao=2&asc=20160908110712&meid=f3c697819e004dacbbe13f5cc5040666&pid=100677&rk=2&rkt=30&sd=362433159234&itm=153062796516&_trksid=p2385738.c100677.m4598&redirect=mobile

Pic of mine mounted and small probe sensor (silver thing attached to black wire). Price went up a bit, i only paid $4.96 with free shipping 4 years ago. Been thinking about attaching the probe to my underwater camera with 100 ft of wire & measure water temps.

20180117_133805.thumb.jpg.0675d0667052af5d8b8b5699199939c7.jpg

Edited by papadarv
Link to comment
Share on other sites

....Bringing this thread back to life. I got this house out of the ice a few times last year and the heater kept things "comfortable" during the day, but the bottom bunk got pretty cold at night. I am adding more fans to push the air down to the floor, which should help. I am also going to clean out the combustion chamber a bit and blow some compressed air through the orifice to make sure that everything is clean and running efficiently..... but I still have a couple questions for those that have experience w/ these heaters.

  • The guy who had the house before me had a Wilcraft and needed to raise the heater in order to get the clearance needed to fit his machine in the shack. Right now the bottom of the heater is roughly 2 feet off of floor (see pictures above). The original mounting had the bottom of the heater about 10" off of the floor. Since I the original hole is already there (it has a diamond plate patch over it), do you think that I will gain much by dropping the heater back down to its original location?
  • I added a tank cover and had to move the regulator. The original regulator was horizontal and hooked up directly to the tank (just like a gas grill). I removed the nipple and added a pigtail to the existing regulator. I then mounted it to vertically to the ready-rod stem holding the tanks on. I never gave it a thought that changing the orientation of the regulator would screw things up. Do you think that would be restricting any flow? Am I better off buying a two stage vertical regulator and ditching this one?
Edited by rl_sd
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Convection heaters always puts hot air at the ceiling and cold air on the floor. Fans may help slightly. By the time you buy fans, spend a season trying different positioning of the fans you might be better off with forced air. You can get a 19,000 BTU Suburban for $385 or less with a little searching. 

https://www.amazon.com/Suburban-2446ABK-Nt-20SEQ-Furnace-Black/dp/B00HSO2QL2

You can mount it in the V as shown with 2ea. 90 deg. 1 1/2" rigid conduit from Mensrds on intake & exhaust ports, perfect fit. Run 2 or 3 - 4" round got air ducts on wall to mid point of lower bunk. (Or 1 1/2 x 12 steel duct as in my above post.). Put a deflector in front outside intake/exhaust ports to keep road spray pot of the ports when going down the road. Equals comfort + through out the house.

20191004_091945.thumb.jpg.321375bd9715244a26f75b9762257996.jpg

 

20191004_094716.thumb.jpg.9be4714a2f21db52f497915d62a3117d.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks papa. I’ve been thinking the same thing regarding forced air. I have it in my other fish house and love it. This already the empire and hole(s) cut into the wall of the shack, which is why I was looking at trying a few things before jumping ship. 

Edited by rl_sd
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.