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jbell1981

Hunting Shack Ideas

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24 minutes ago, jeffeg64 said:

the folks in the loft will be hot and the folks downstairs will be cold.

 

Loft folks have a window if they get hot. Downstairs folks can add a blanket. 

Edited by jbell1981
I was being an A-Hole

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1 minute ago, nofishfisherman said:

 

If there is any electricity planned a couple fans can help regulate that.

 

There's not but I have some small battery powered fans that work ok. Also, there are these that work with a 12V battery that I already have on my wish list. 

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If it were my cabin, I would for sure wire the whole thing up for 12 volt and a few 110 outlets just like an RV. I would install a converter and a couple of deep cell batteries. Then you could fire up the generator once a day or so and charge your batteries as well as run any larger appliances. This way you have DC power all the time to run lights, fans, water pump, etc.

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25 minutes ago, Big Dave2 said:

If it were my cabin, I would for sure wire the whole thing up for 12 volt and a few 110 outlets just like an RV. I would install a converter and a couple of deep cell batteries. Then you could fire up the generator once a day or so and charge your batteries as well as run any larger appliances. This way you have DC power all the time to run lights, fans, water pump, etc.

 

I do plan on wiring the whole cabin up for a generator or possible future solar system. I don't currently have a generator but I want it ready for when I do. 

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40 minutes ago, jbell1981 said:

 

I do plan on wiring the whole cabin up for a generator or possible future solar system. I don't currently have a generator but I want it ready for when I do. 

 

For out in the boondocks you can get a cheap used generator that would do the job for $200 or so and upgrade to a quieter Honda as funds allow. Solar charging would be great if you intend to use the cabin throughout the year but if you are only going to use it a few weeks during hunting season, I would just get a generator.

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11 minutes ago, Big Dave2 said:

 

For out in the boondocks you can get a cheap used generator that would do the job for $200 or so and upgrade to a quieter Honda as funds allow. Solar charging would be great if you intend to use the cabin throughout the year but if you are only going to use it a few weeks during hunting season, I would just get a generator.

 

It will be used all year. It will hopefully become a retreat for me and get used at least once a month, more in the summer months and hunting season. 

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1 hour ago, Big Dave2 said:

If it were my cabin, I would for sure wire the whole thing up for 12 volt and a few 110 outlets just like an RV. I would install a converter and a couple of deep cell batteries. Then you could fire up the generator once a day or so and charge your batteries as well as run any larger appliances. This way you have DC power all the time to run lights, fans, water pump, etc.

 

Back to this post, is there any reason to wire it for 12V. Why not just wire the entire place with 14-2 like you would a house? I'm a noob with 12V and trying to understand why I would need it. Would 14-2 wire and standard outlets/lights not work with a battery bank and inverter?

Edited by jbell1981

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Just now, jbell1981 said:

 

Back to this post, is there any reason to wire it for 12V. Why not just wire the entire place with 14-2 like you would a house? I'm a noob with 12V and trying to understand why I would need it. 

 

I would wire it mostly 12 volt because then you could run lights, fans, etc on batteries. If you wire the whole thing for 110 volt, you would have to run the generator anytime you want to turn on a light bulb. If you look at how an RV is wired, that would be the ultimate off-grid way to do it. Everything in an RV is able to be operated by 12 volt battery power except air conditioning, microwave and a few outlets. Anytime the RV is plugged in, everything works including 110 V items and the battery is being charged. This is what would happen when you run the generator. When you cut power to the RV, only 12 volt items work but luckily that's most everything including lights, ceiling fan, hood fan over stove, water pump, furnace fan, etc.

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17 hours ago, nofishfisherman said:

 

If there is any electricity planned a couple fans can help regulate that.

yup that's true, we have a generator, but it usually doesn't run al night.

 

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17 hours ago, jbell1981 said:

Loft folks have a window if they get hot. Downstairs folks can add a blanket. 

I was promoted to window man this year (the guy next to the window).

Just saying, with wood heat the temp changes during the night.

guys like to over stoke the wood burner before they go to bed or at pee breaks and by morning its still cold.

the window opens and closes all night long, hard to keep everyone comfortable.

not really any way to avoid it with the open loft.

I've heard of guys using sliding partition to regulate the temp between the main room and  the open loft

definitely keep a window cracked for ventilation for CO and last nights Chile !

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I think BigDave is right on the wiring.  It would be nice to shut the generator off at night but still be able to run some fans and lights if needed off the 12v.  That will really help with heat distribution and probably allow you to get by with less wood in the wood stove.  Then you can run the generator at certain times of the day to recharge the batteries and run any larger items you may want throughout the year.  

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3 hours ago, nofishfisherman said:

I think BigDave is right on the wiring.  It would be nice to shut the generator off at night but still be able to run some fans and lights if needed off the 12v.  That will really help with heat distribution and probably allow you to get by with less wood in the wood stove.  Then you can run the generator at certain times of the day to recharge the batteries and run any larger items you may want throughout the year.  

 

Yep, there's a reason that just about every RV that's been made in the last 40+ years has been wired this way. If I were building an off-grid cabin I would look closely at all RV systems and products on the market. They've been doing this for a long time.

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  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • I do most of my posting at work so its a miracle I'm still employed.    Also I don't think you can call yourself a true member of the forum unless you've been put on time out at least once.  Back in the day I had a few time outs but I never knew why.  Whichever mod did it never informed me or gave me a reason.  
    • Most everyone on this site has been in the coroner at least twice, especially if they have been around for 10 years plus. I know I've been and I still have the same name since 2002-even though the date shows 2006, why I don't know.
    • Nope can't say I have been sick. I visit my parents in the old folks home so maybe that will be a good test. I may need to find another chunk of two to last me the winter. I kinda enjoy being in the woods and looking for it.
    • Make sure you use shielded cable vs wiring rca ends onto standard 16 gauge wire other wise you will have interference from your other 12 and 120 volt wiring.  More insulation = less btus needed. At the very least I would spray the floor. Going to want to go 30k if you aren’t going to spray foam the walls Depends on location. 30” is optimal. If on the side of the house versus back, I would go 24” because the are nicer to sit on. I have a 36” for my fold down top bunk and it works well to sleep my 7 & 8 year old Are they nice? Yes. Are they a nessecity? No. I don’t have one and moisture has never been an issue. The only prob I have is cooking bacon in the house.... I love bacon but when u cook it in the house it lingers for days, but not sure the vent would totally solve this LED!!!!! You need to decide whether you’re going to have a generator and how long you want to run it. If you think that you’re going to constantly run a generator then you probably want to have more 120 V lights in the last 12 V lights. If you’re not going to run a generator that often or not at all then you would want to cut down in the number of 120 V lights.  Three way switches are in valuable within a fish house. Being able to switch on the entire bank of lights by the door and also by the rear bunk is very nice when you hear the rattle real go off in the middle of the night. I have three double pancake LED lights in my house that can be switched on and off individually one light or too light per fixture. I then ran the input power through a three way switch so that I can shut each light down individually or shut the whole works off as one. Hall lights are also very important, we used LED Leison plate lights and they work awesome
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    • I would look at the camera you would want and add the proper wire for that. Most new cameras have hdmi out I believe. I wired our house with two hdmi ports for cameras. You can get long hdmi cables for pretty cheap online. Also bought little adapters and mounted to the right bench and one up front. They both run to the tv. You could do a 12V outlet near the area as well depending on how your camera is powered. I would get a forced air furnace if you are planning on sleeping in it. Ventless heaters are not safe in my opinion unless you leave a window open. I would definitely insulate it well. If you cut corners on insulation you will pay for it in propane in the long run. Depending on your ceiling height I would go with a full size 12v ceiling fan.  They are nice to have and are not too expensive.  We have recessed puck led lights from superbrightled.com they are a little pricey but I like them. They have similar options on amazon that are much cheaper. Porch lights were from super bright as well.   
    • no idea who it was, i was asked to be a mod years after that in the bird forum. 
    • I would definitely include one.     I would buy whatever you are going to use for mattresses or cushions and build the bunk around that.     I like having one....     12 volt RV lighting with LED bulbs. LED hole lights.     Do you live on a lake or is this going to be kept at a resort?  
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