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Trick1441

2018 21’ fish house build

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7 hours ago, Papa Bear said:

Top Notch!! Every time our furnace runs I like the idea of in floor heat more and more.

I used this motor to lift our bed:

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A67WXDI/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B01A67WXDI&pd_rd_wg=HKpzx&pd_rd_r=0VTSTJ7074GWKRGJGVW3&pd_rd_w=MhRMb

 

Looks like its not available at amazon anymore but you could probably track one down with a little googling. Has been working really well.

Really nice job and thanks for sharing!!

Thanks! 

I looked into that motor from your build and couldn’t find much info on the motor. To me it looked like it ran off of 110v and we were looking for something we could use with the battery. Does yours run off of 110V or 12V? The motors work great just running at different speeds. I think we are going to just flip them 180 degrees and try and run a single shaft between them I think it will work. 

 

 

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Really nice job. I'm starting a build as soon as I get my frame in a week or so. Do you think in floor heat would work as the sole heat source in a 8x12+4v? 

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9 hours ago, Picked-Pete said:

Really nice job. I'm starting a build as soon as I get my frame in a week or so. Do you think in floor heat would work as the sole heat source in a 8x12+4v? 

I definitely think it would work but it would still take a little bit of time to get up to temp unless you turned it on before you got there. But our furnace only stayed on for a little and only one cycle before the in floor heat caught up 

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What was the temp outside when you tested the heating and how long from starting did it take to take over the furnace? I was talking to an HVAC guy and he mentioned using a smaller diameter pex to get tighter runs and more exposure to the floor. The only concern I have with that idea is over working the pump. I imagine drinking through a Culver's straw vs a coffee straw. He also said he wouldn't bother with an aluminum sheet. What are your thoughts on that?

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Well we didn’t get our fish house done in time to bring it out on the lake but we did test it in the driveway and it was like -10 out. The furnace ran for maybe 10-15 min and once it got up to 68 the furnace maybe kicked on one more cycle then it never came on again. I don’t remember exactly. But our house was also up off the ground a foot and a half with no banking or anything and the in floor heat kept up. I don’t think using smaller diameter pex would gain you much of anything. Even with 1/2” you can get really close Center’s if you plan everything out well. Down the main part of ours I think we have about 4” centers and that is closer than the usual 6 or 8. The bigger the pex the more space you can have. Different size pipe can only flow so much so you’d have to look into that and run some numbers. I used the aluminum because I was following liprippers build but I wouldn’t change what I did. The aluminum to me serves two purposes it transfers the heat from the pex and spreads it out across the sheet. Fish house in floor heat and normal in floor heat are a little different. In a normal house there is usually a large thermal mass that takes a long time to heat up but once it’s warm it usually stays warm. I also think it does a great job dispersing weight so the pink foam board doesn’t compress over time. It also serves as a barrier between the pex and the floor so nothing can poke into the pex and cause a leak . I understand what the guy was saying but I don’t want to say yeah go for it without aluminum without really knowing what would happen. Maybe if you were doing a vinyl plank for a floor it would be different than rubber coin floor but I’m not sure. Maybe lipripper can give his opinion on this. 

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Thanks a bunch for answering my questions. That all sounds good to me. I don't mind waiting a bit for it to warm up. I have one more concern and that is condensation on the pipes from a cold start. I'm thinking the 16"x16" easy floor grid plastic tiles over the F250 and let it vent out under benches and bunks. I'm thinking vinyl  planks over that. Any concerns with that idea? Yes I would like rippers advise but I don't think I'll get it if he's working on a business with it. Your help is much appreciated!

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52 minutes ago, Picked-Pete said:

Thanks a bunch for answering my questions. That all sounds good to me. I don't mind waiting a bit for it to warm up. I have one more concern and that is condensation on the pipes from a cold start. I'm thinking the 16"x16" easy floor grid plastic tiles over the F250 and let it vent out under benches and bunks. I'm thinking vinyl  planks over that. Any concerns with that idea? Yes I would like rippers advise but I don't think I'll get it if he's working on a business with it. Your help is much appreciated!

I don’t think condensation would be an issue since you would need warm moist air hitting your cold pex. You’ll have cold air hitting cold pex and there really shouldn’t be any condensation. 

 

Are you saying you are just going to run your pex under benches and bunks? When I was looking into it everything I read said to keep the areas under cabinets and stuff like that free of tubing so I’m not sure if there would be any issues with that. I just kind of followed the guidelines I read. 

 

I would try and find a pex tubing that has more of spippery coating on the outside. I know the menards pex type A has a sticky oxygen barrier coating in the outside and it squeaks when it expands and contracts and rubs against things. I think the Pex AL has a smoother coating on the outside. 

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I guess from what I've heard/seen at some point a hot to cold/ cold to hot is going to cause condensation. I could be wrong. 

 

What I'm thinking is running the grid tiles just under the edges of the benches but not run the pex under them. I just want the gaps in the grid tiles to be able to vent the condensation that might occur into the benches. I'm thinking the radiant heat will disperse through the gaps in the 1" grid tiles and evenly heat the vinyl planking above. 

 

Good to know about the pex. I'll ask a couple more buddies that are in HVAC about my ideas and see what they think. Your input is much appreciated! I should probably start my own thread and stop hijacking this one. I'm just down to crunch time since 11% off is over this weekend. Thanks again and let me know what you think!

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10 hours ago, Picked-Pete said:

I guess from what I've heard/seen at some point a hot to cold/ cold to hot is going to cause condensation. I could be wrong. 

 

What I'm thinking is running the grid tiles just under the edges of the benches but not run the pex under them. I just want the gaps in the grid tiles to be able to vent the condensation that might occur into the benches. I'm thinking the radiant heat will disperse through the gaps in the 1" grid tiles and evenly heat the vinyl planking above. 

 

Good to know about the pex. I'll ask a couple more buddies that are in HVAC about my ideas and see what they think. Your input is much appreciated! I should probably start my own thread and stop hijacking this one. I'm just down to crunch time since 11% off is over this weekend. Thanks again and let me know what you think!

I really don’t think there will be any condensation at at all. You would pretty much need to hook your pex up to a chiller to get condensation. Think about when pipes sweat in your house. It is always the incoming cold water that sweats and only on really hot humid days. Hot water pipes don’t sweat since they are above the dew point. Also the humidity in the air in the winter is very low. 

 

I would run the grid over the whole floor then put the pex in the areas that are not covered by benches and stuff then put the vinyl plank over the whole floor. No need to leave any areas for venting or anything like that. 

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You're right I just remembered that the condensation was a problem when hydronic cooling not heating. Thanks for your help

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On ‎8‎/‎3‎/‎2018 at 7:27 PM, Trick1441 said:

Thanks! 

I looked into that motor from your build and couldn’t find much info on the motor. To me it looked like it ran off of 110v and we were looking for something we could use with the battery. Does yours run off of 110V or 12V? The motors work great just running at different speeds. I think we are going to just flip them 180 degrees and try and run a single shaft between them I think it will work. 

 

 

Yes, its a 110v motor. I would've preferred 12v also but not a big deal since all my 110v outlets can be fed from an inverter so they are powered whether the generator is running or not. I think what you mentioned with the single shaft between them will be the ticket. Looking forward to seeing what you come up with.

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