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I had to change a tire on my wife's car last week and found that the lug nuts were on so tight that the impact hammer wouldn't loosen them at all.  Granted it's a relatively cheap impact hammer but I wonder why I had to use a long half inch hinge handle and a piece of pipe to get them loose.  A tire shop had worked on the tires a year ago and man they must have really hammered those babies down.  Is there some torque setting that is out there recommending something like this?  Why?  I've driven for 50 years and I've never had a wheel fall off.  There's no way anyone could have changed that tire using the standard equipment you carry in the trunk.

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4 hours ago, Tom7227 said:

I had to change a tire on my wife's car last week and found that the lug nuts were on so tight that the impact hammer wouldn't loosen them at all.  Granted it's a relatively cheap impact hammer but I wonder why I had to use a long half inch hinge handle and a piece of pipe to get them loose.  A tire shop had worked on the tires a year ago and man they must have really hammered those babies down.  Is there some torque setting that is out there recommending something like this?  Why?  I've driven for 50 years and I've never had a wheel fall off.  There's no way anyone could have changed that tire using the standard equipment you carry in the trunk.

 

They should use a Torque stick when putting them on, but none do. :angry:

Does she have the craapy lugs with the "Tin foil" cap over the nut? I love how those round off. I replaced all the Tin foil lug nuts on my SUV and snowmobile trailer with solid SS lug nuts. They cost more but, I hope to not be sitting half in half out of a snow cover ditch in the middle of no where trying to get striped lugs off! :mad:

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Might want to have a talk with that tire shop, and have them properly reinstall all the other lug nuts before you have to. Plus, if any break they can fix them now. If any brake pulsation occurred after overtightening, that's one more thing to talk about. I also worry about stress factors on the studs. Once a bolt is stretched, it's done. About the only way to check for that is to get an OE stud and compare lengths. Cheater bar force likely means they were at least 3-4 times overtightened, maybe more. But, if you have uncapped nuts on an uncapped wheel allowing corrosion, it's on you.

 

Torque sticks are better than nothing but really should only be used to snug them down, then finish with a torque wrench.

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I have heard as far on trailers every year the lugs should be removed and greased with some sort of oil or anti seize to prevent rust or seizeing of lugs. This could be the issue or there just torqued on good.

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2 hours ago, 1968 said:

Torque sticks are better than nothing but really should only be used to snug them down, then finish with a torque wrench.

 

Um, isn't that the reason for using a Torque stick so that the lugs are Not "over torqued" just by the wrench? :whistle:

 

 

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Long standing problem.   I recall breaking a 3/4 craftsman socket trying to get a tire off a 68 vw in the 70's.   I don't know if retorqueing them upon returning from the tire shop is good enough or not.  

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A trick my grandfather taught me was using a long tube. Usually a 2-4ft long peice of pipe. He never had an impact so this was as close as having one. Take a big socket wrench then slide the wrench in the pipe and the pipe acts as leverage and I have a peice of pipe hanging in my garage right now just for this reason and I have NEVER not been able to break something free with this method. A little tip I wanted to share.

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30 minutes ago, AlwaysFishing23 said:

A trick my grandfather taught me was using a long tube. Usually a 2-4ft long peice of pipe. He never had an impact so this was as close as having one. Take a big socket wrench then slide the wrench in the pipe and the pipe acts as leverage and I have a peice of pipe hanging in my garage right now just for this reason and I have NEVER not been able to break something free with this method. A little tip I wanted to share.

That's what I had to do to get the tire off.  Not the type of thing you're likely to have handy when you get a flat away from home.

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Couple things to keep in mind. Various wheels will require varying torque settings and it should be ON the wheel, or in the owners manual. If you are in a shop make a point of TELLING them what torque settings you want used on your tires/wheels. And of course big difference if you have steel or cast aluminum wheels.  Years back, believe it or no, some Dodge trucks would tighten turning LEFT and then on the other side they would tighten turning RIGHT!  You need not ask me how I know this but it all took place in the middle of the Yukon Territory.

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29 minutes ago, Ufatz said:

Years back, believe it or no, some Dodge trucks would tighten turning LEFT and then on the other side they would tighten turning RIGHT!  You need not ask me how I know this but it all took place in the middle of the Yukon Territory.

 

It may be that they knew the folks up there needed a little extra help because they couldn't get the Righty tighty-Lefty loosey deal down. So, they had to make special trucks just for the Yukon Territory? :whistle: :lol::lol:

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I noticed lately most tire shops have and use torque wrenches instead of just relying on impacts like they used to. Probably a liability thing. Keep in mind a lot of shops employ high school kids part time which is good because they know everything at that age. I had a shop years back put on lugs so tight it ruined the rims and lug nuts. Breaker bar is also a handy tool as well as the BFH

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wouldn't hurt to apply some anti sieze on there either. everytime i loosen any kind of bolt , screw, etc it gets a little anti sieze!!!! 

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9 hours ago, Ufatz said:

Couple things to keep in mind. Various wheels will require varying torque settings and it should be ON the wheel, or in the owners manual. If you are in a shop make a point of TELLING them what torque settings you want used on your tires/wheels. And of course big difference if you have steel or cast aluminum wheels.  Years back, believe it or no, some Dodge trucks would tighten turning LEFT and then on the other side they would tighten turning RIGHT!  You need not ask me how I know this but it all took place in the middle of the Yukon Territory.

I think that was fairly common at one time.   I recall havinga car or two with left hand threads on one side and right hand on the other.    I think the theory was something to do with the nuts not working themselves loose due to the wheel rotation (which seemed dubious to me when I heard it).   Might have been a chrysler thing.    

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17 hours ago, Tom7227 said:

That's what I had to do to get the tire off.  Not the type of thing you're likely to have handy when you get a flat away from home.

 

You could use your breaker bar now and re-torque while you are at home. 

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20 hours ago, leech~~ said:

 

Um, isn't that the reason for using a Torque stick so that the lugs are Not "over torqued" just by the wrench? :whistle:

 

 

 

Too many variables. Impact strength, airflow setting and wear factors, air pressure variance,  lubrication habits, and of course the operator. It's very easy to exceed what the stick is rated for. Not break the lugs next time tight, but maybe a free brake pulsation 2-3 months down the road after the rotor is distorted and runout turns into thickness variation.  I always use a size smaller with the impact turned all the way down and frequently have less than a 1/8 of a turn left to go. I will even tailor how heavy I pull the trigger and ALWAYS follow up with a torque wrench.  

 

Left hand lugs was an old Mopar trick. Knowing about them does date you!  

 

 

 

 

 

  

 

 

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Can’t say that I’ve ever seen or heard of a “torque stick”

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20 minutes ago, rl_sd said:

Can’t say that I’ve ever seen or heard of a “torque stick”

 

How bout Dip Stick, you heard of that right? :lol:

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Just make a point of telling the shop people to use a torque wrench and then tell them the value you want on your vehicle,  which you will have gotten from the manual. My Benz's have aluminum wheels for the most part and you can distort and ruin one it a Millenial Ape gets at them with a giant super powered wham-bam air powered wrench.

I've found too many that know drugs,  not lugs.

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34 minutes ago, Ufatz said:

Just make a point of telling the shop people to use a torque wrench and then tell them the value you want on your vehicle,  which you will have gotten from the manual. My Benz's have aluminum wheels for the most part and you can distort and ruin one it a Millenial Ape gets at them with a giant super powered wham-bam air powered wrench.

I've found too many that know drugs,  not lugs.

 

Ufatz, not doubting a word you have to say, you are quite the colorful creator. The stories you have told over the years of trapping in the Yukon Territory. Living in a log cabin, driving old trucks with right and left hand lug nuts and fighting off Big Foot have been interesting to listen to.  To say the least. And now, you live in MN and drive a Mercedes Benz!  Hat's off to you're life sir. :)

53487caa69bedd18528b456b-750.jpg

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Well, fellas,  lemme tell ya:  I've had one terrific life and done more things than you'd probably believe.  In fact I told my wife one evening shortly after we had moved to the lower 48, "I think you had best cool it with some of your recollections of our time and adventures in the North because I get the feeling most people won't believe you anyway.

And to this day we don't shoot off our mouth too much just for that reason.

EVERYBODY should be as lucky as I have been!!   :)

Edited by Ufatz
correct mispellings

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2 hours ago, Ufatz said:

 

EVERYBODY should be as lucky as I have been!!   :)

 

I doubt luck had much to do with it sir. :D

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