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ClownColor

Wheels Grind When Turning

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Toyota tundra 2012 4wheel drive SR5 crew cab with tow package.

Starting about a month ago I could hear what sounded like metal banging somewhere underneath my truck when going over potholes.

Starting last weekend I would have horrible intermittent grinding sounds when turning both left or right.

Came back from dealership oil change and tire rotation and had them look into it...they said is uneven wear on rotars. Break pads are fine, just need to grind down and smooth rotars . I asked his it happened since pads are good, said its because the pads don't cover the whole rotar.

Does this sound plausible? Or am I wasting money? $168 to do this or I'll do it myself if I find a day open...any vids on taking on/off rotars 2012 tundra?

Thanks

CC

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27 minutes ago, ClownColor said:

Toyota tundra 2012 4wheel drive SR5 crew cab with tow package.

Starting about a month ago I could hear what sounded like metal banging somewhere underneath my truck when going over potholes.

Starting last weekend I would have horrible intermittent grinding sounds when turning both left or right.

Came back from dealership oil change and tire rotation and had them look into it...they said is uneven wear on rotars. Break pads are fine, just need to grind down and smooth rotars . I asked his it happened since pads are good, said its because the pads don't cover the whole rotar.

Does this sound plausible? Or am I wasting money? $168 to do this or I'll do it myself if I find a day open...any vids on taking on/off rotars 2012 tundra?

Thanks

CC

Disk brakes are a pretty easy job. Been doing my own for years on a lot of different cars and SUV's it takes about 45min's a side. Faster after you have done them for a while.  Since front brakes do most of the stopping, do it right and get it done. Good Luck. :)

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the brakes are a breeze will take you longer to jack truck up then do the job. tons of videos on you tube. I didnt even need a c-clamp or a caliper tool to do the pads I could just push the pistons in by hand. I got 86k on my OEM pads so thats what I went with as replacements. My rotars were fine. I have read lots of complaints on other forums about rotors going bad because lugnuts were being over torqued so might want to have another discussion with your dealer or monitor.

go slow take your time and its an easy job lots of videos on youtube. I would just do rotors and pads while your in there if your mileage is getting up there. use some zip ties to tie the calipers to something while you do the rotors to keep from damaging the brake lines. you can just set the rear on the axle but be careful of it falling.

 

*** EDIT *** btw the way the video above is for the old generation tundra up to 2006. The new 07 and above will be very similar but you will notice much bigger brakes and rotors on the  5.7's 

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Thanks for the info.

I've done all four breaks/rotors on a f150 and it wasn't to bad but I also had a help from a buddy. Youtube is awesome but I've had problems with poor vids before so thanks for finding a reliable one.

Dealership said my pads were at 6mm and didn't need to replace until 3mms...I'll take a look once I get them off.

The reason I was curious is this:

The T-SB-0013-13 addresses a condition where “some 2007 – 2012 model year Tundra vehicles may exhibit a rubbing or grinding noise from the rear when making left or right turns. New parking brake plate sub-assemblies have been developed to address this condition.”

Like other TSB’s this repair is covered under the Toyota Basic Warranty, 36 months or 36,000 miles whichever occurs first, from the vehicle’s in-service date. And the repair is limited to the condition described.

I also read Dust Shield frequently go bad and need adjusting on tundras...

Unfortunately, my truck is outside the warranty period and this TSB is quit expensive. I'll take the dealerships recommendation and hope this fixes the problem. I've never had uneven rotors make this horrible intermittent noise but we'll see. I guess I just don't know how a warped rotor would make grinding noises only when turning and intermittently...
 

 

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I just put rear brakes in my tundra (2008) at home. Took about 1/2 hour to replace the pads and rotors. The aftermarket rotors did rub on the backing plates a little for a couple hundred miles but has since resolved itself  ( :grin: ).

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5 hours ago, Jeremy airjer W said:

I just put rear brakes in my tundra (2008) at home. Took about 1/2 hour to replace the pads and rotors. The aftermarket rotors did rub on the backing plates a little for a couple hundred miles but has since resolved itself  ( :grin: ).

I know u work and know a lot about Toyota's... Do my symptoms sound like a warped rotor? Or more of the TSB? Why would warped rotors cause grinding on turns?

Thanks,

CC

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Warped rotors typically only cause a brake pulsation. It is possible that you have rust ridges on the rear rotors either on the rotor surface that are rubbing on the backing plate, rust built up in the hat of the rotor (the part the ebrake presses on) and it is rubbing on the e-brake shoes, or you may have a backing plate that has been bent out of shape. I am not familiar with that particular TSB. I can say that if you are hearing a scrapping type noise on a turn it should be fairly easy to dissemble the brake components and inspect for any signs of rubbing between the rotor and the backing plates.

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UPDATE: The "stealership" was wrong once again!

I had a feeling the rotors where not bad as this didn't make sense to me when he explained what was going on.

Yesterday, I bought new rotors and decided to do the breaks as well since I was under there and have almost 80k on the vehicle. We took the wheels off and both of us looked at the rotors, and with the naked eye, appeared to be fine...but it would be hard to tell if they were warped. So, as the dealer suggested, we replaced the rotors, and replace the break pads, took the truck for a spin and instantly noticed the horrible rubbing/grinding noises. Took it apart again with a closer look and found the problem...which if we were looking for right away, AND WHICH THE DEALER SHOULD HAVE SAW, was that the rotor was grinding on the dust cover...WHICH I ASKED THEM TO LOOK AT!. We were able to bend it back out some and the grinding instantly went away. At least I didn't give them any of my money and came out ahead doing it on my own. I could only imagine what my out the door cost would have been after the dealership replaced my rotors and still had the same issues...idiots.

I also don't understand why the dust cover has a lip that goes into a small grove in the rotor...seems destine to fail if any slight abnormities. 

Anyways, I should be good on breaks and rotors for another 100k but we'll see how long the this dust cover stays in place.

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I think my stealership wanted $150 an axle just to do the pads.... I laughed knowing it would take that tech only a few mins to do the job. Like I said it took me longer to jack the truck up and get the wheels off than to change all four pads on mine.

What dealership do you take yours too might need to find a new one.

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19 minutes ago, rundrave said:

I think my stealership wanted $150 an axle just to do the pads.... I laughed knowing it would take that tech only a few mins to do the job. Like I said it took me longer to jack the truck up and get the wheels off than to change all four pads on mine.

What dealership do you take yours too might need to find a new one.

Funny you asked since I'm on my second dealership since the original where I bought my truck from  (Walser Bloomington) were complete morons...NEVER GO TO WALSER BLOOMINGTON! Good sales division but you can't even guess how dumb the service techs are there.

This happened at Burnsville Toyota. I've actually had pretty descent luck there so I'll continue to go back...this was probably more so one bad service tech and manager combo. I don't like taking my vehicles there after hours, to any shop, cause I feel you get less senior guys but unfortunately that's the only time I can get there.

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when I lived in the cities I had more than a couple bad experiences with Burnsville Toyota so  I ended up using Maplewood Toyota and always had good service work done there and they were always honest. I had some high mileage toyotas back then and their diagnosis was always spot on. Was way out of my way but they were worth the drive that was 16 years ago so who knows how things are today. But after hearing your story doesn't look like things have changed much in burnsville.

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9 minutes ago, rundrave said:

when I lived in the cities I had more than a couple bad experiences with Burnsville Toyota so  I ended up using Maplewood Toyota and always had good service work done there and they were always honest. I had some high mileage toyotas back then and their diagnosis was always spot on. Was way out of my way but they were worth the drive that was 16 years ago so who knows how things are today. But after hearing your story doesn't look like things have changed much in burnsville.

Yes, Maplewood Toyota is a great place to purchase or have service done. Been going there for years.

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7 hours ago, rundrave said:

I think my stealership wanted $150 an axle just to do the pads.... I laughed knowing it would take that tech only a few mins to do the job. Like I said it took me longer to jack the truck up and get the wheels off than to change all four pads on mine.

What dealership do you take yours too might need to find a new one.

That actually isn't that bad. Your looking at $30 to $50 for pads, time to turn the rotors, clean the rust from the brackets so that the pads will again move freely, lubricate the slides, reassemble, put the tires on, and test drive. I can do all of that in about 25 minutes but I have 20 years of experiences and all the right tools to make the job a lot easier.

Comparatively speaking I can take the family out for burgers and easily spend $50 - $70 for the four of us. I know full well I can buy everything I need to have the same burgers at home for about $25...... ;)

Remember those "techs" that can do that job in minutes are the same "techs" that are providing a lot of useful information on this forum and at no charge. 

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3 hours ago, Jeremy airjer W said:

That actually isn't that bad. Your looking at $30 to $50 for pads, time to turn the rotors, clean the rust from the brackets so that the pads will again move freely, lubricate the slides, reassemble, put the tires on, and test drive. I can do all of that in about 25 minutes but I have 20 years of experiences and all the right tools to make the job a lot easier.

Comparatively speaking I can take the family out for burgers and easily spend $50 - $70 for the four of us. I know full well I can buy everything I need to have the same burgers at home for about $25...... ;)

Remember those "techs" that can do that job in minutes are the same "techs" that are providing a lot of useful information on this forum and at no charge. 

Hey, I hear ya! I have no problem taking my car in. But something didn't seem right with their diagnosis and I can't afford to waste money. I had a shop and tech I absolutely trusted but they've moved. Now I need to find a new mechanic. I feel a lot of places just don't take time to properly diagnosis things and have a checklist they move down...wheel make noise, replace rotors and pads...no fix, replace bearings, no fix, hubs...rods...ect. It would have taken 5 minutes to look and I even asked them about it. Plain and simple it was a missed diagnosis. Like I said, I've had good luck there before so I'll write it off as a poor tech and service manager... That's the problem with dealerships vs shops...at least a shop u know who's working on your truck.

Thanks for the help guys.

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42 minutes ago, ClownColor said:

Hey, I hear ya! I have no problem taking my car in. But something didn't seem right with their diagnosis and I can't afford to waste money. I had a shop and tech I absolutely trusted but they've moved. Now I need to find a new mechanic. I feel a lot of places just don't take time to properly diagnosis things and have a checklist they move...

You did exactly what the guy looking at it should have done. Test drive, confirm the sound, and inspect. If he was worried about doing it for free than I'm sure a reasonable hoist charge could have been negotiated and I'm sure you would have understood the reason for the charge. If they had pulled it apart and realized the backing plate was misshapen they then could have brought that to your attention and then leverage the brake service into the estimate. Most shops that have an inspection fee will usually drop it if the work is done at that time or at least credit if the work is done in the future.

Nobody is faulting you for for raising red flags and not trusting the conclusion  you where given by the dealer. You definitely did the right thing without "factory training".

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Fun Game!  You should do this weekly!

did the bracket for the pads slide out (put in backwards)? Not sure what that silver metal piece sticking out is...

 

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Not only are the pads installed backwards "inside pad is on the outside" but they are not even the right pads for the vehicle. Those metal pieces or tabs would fit into the center of the caliper piston and hold the pad to the piston.

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20 minutes ago, Jeremy airjer W said:

This is how it should look.... ;)

 

tmp_12622-20160825_125055883840012.jpg

Do you polish and paint everything when doing service?   :D;)

Looks like new.  

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BRAKES ARE KIND OF IMPORTANT! DON'T KNOW IF YOU WANT TO SKIMP ON SOME THAT  CAN SAVE YOUR LIFE.   are the wheel bearings ok?

Edited by sunniewally

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So follow up...can I save the old rotars? Thinking of getting them turned, bath in oil, and wrapped in plastic. I have almost 80k on truck. If new rotars last another 100k, I'm thinking I could put these old ones back on? Any advice on this? How could I save these?

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      River level is 14.7 feet at Lynxville and is expected to fall slowly to 14 feet. Water temperature is 82 degrees at the Lock and Dam 9. Sny Magill ramp is open. Walleye- Fair: Water levels are at a good level to find walleyes on wing dams. Use a 3-way rig with a floating jig and a worm. Yellow Perch - Fair: Perch bite has been spotty, but some nicer ones are being caught with live minnow rigs. Northern Pike -Good: This time of year pike are attracted to cooler water coming in from springs and tributaries. Channel Catfish - Good: Try cut bait or stink bait in the main and side channel borders. Bluegill - Good: Panfish bite is picking up this week. Try a small piece of garden worm on small tackle under a bobber. Common Carp - Good: Carp are on the move with the high water. To hook into a big one, try fishing the warm shallow backwaters where carp are staging for the spawn. Largemouth Bass - Good: With lower water levels, bass will be pulling out to wing dams and structure along the main channel. Smallmouth Bass - Good: Find smallmouth along shorelines in slight current off rocky points. White Bass - Fair: Cast flashy spinners or crankbaits along the rocks in the main channel current for big white bass. Bluegill - Excellent: Use light tackle tipped with small piece of worm under a bobber in 4-6 feet of water. Freshwater Drum - Excellent: Freshwater drum are actively biting in areas of current. Drop a heavily weighted worm rig into the current for some big fish action. Black Crappie - Good: Try tube jigs or minnow under a bobber in submersed trees in the backwater sloughs.  Mississippi River Pool 11
      River level is 6.2 feet at Guttenberg and is expected to fall slowly and stabilize near 5 feet. Water temperature is 76 degrees at Lock and Dam 10. Walleye - Fair: Water levels are at a good level to find walleyes on wing dams. Use a 3-way rig with a floating jig and a worm. Yellow Perch - Fair: Perch bite has been spotty, but some nicer ones are being caught with live minnow rigs. Northern Pike - Excellent: This time of year, pike are attracted to cooler water coming in from springs and tributaries. Channel Catfish - Good: Try cut bait or stink bait in the main and side channel borders. Largemouth Bass - Good: With lower water levels, bass will be pulling out to wing dams and structure along the main channel. Smallmouth Bass - Good: Find smallmouth along shorelines in slight current off rocky points. White Bass - Fair: Cast flashy spinners or crankbaits along the rocks in main channel current for big white bass. Bluegill - Excellent: Use light tackle tipped with small piece of worm under a bobber in 4-6 feet of water. Freshwater Drum - Excellent: Freshwater drum are actively biting in areas of current. Drop a heavily weighted worm rig into the current for some big fish action. Black Crappie - Good: Try tube jigs or minnow under a bobber in submersed trees in the backwater sloughs.  Upper Mississippi River levels are leveling off this week with good water clarity, but lots of vegetation present. Boaters should use caution with the lower water with wing dams and sandbars now at or just below the water surface. As water levels settle back to summer lows, look for fish along side channels as the temperatures warm up. Water temperatures are in the upper 70's to low 80's.   Mississippi River Pool 12
      Water levels are 6.1 feet at the Dubuque Lock and Dam and 8.6 feet at the RR bridge. Expect water levels to drop slowly this upcoming week. Water clarity is good. The water temperature is around 81 degrees. Channel Catfish - Excellent:Try stink bait or worms near shore. Freshwater Drum - Excellent: Most anglers use a simple egg sinker and worm rig. Drum will be hanging out relatively near shore in moderate current areas. Largemouth Bass - Excellent: Largemouth bass are being caught along flooded weed lines and in weedy backwater using lures like scum frogs.  White Bass - Good: Look for schools of white bass feeding on the surface in the morning and evenings. Bluegill - Good: Try along the vegetation lines in 4 to 6 feet of water. Flathead Catfish - Good: Current areas along rocks are starting to again produce some nice eating sized flathead catfish. Walleye - Good: Use crankbaits on the wing dams. White Crappie - Good: Try small minnows in newly exposed brush piles along major side channels or deeper backwater areas. Smallmouth Bass - Good: Use spinners or crankbaits along rocky areas with strong current.  Mississippi River Pool 13
      Water level is 6.5 feet at the Bellevue Lock and Dam. Expect water levels to recede this upcoming week. Water clarity is good. The water temperature is around 82 degrees. The north ramp at Sabula is not in use this year due to bridge construction.  Channel Catfish - Excellent: Try stink bait or worms near shore. Move often if you are not finding catfish. Freshwater Drum - Excellent: The drum bite is on. Fish worms with an egg sinker in moderate current areas. Fish near the shorelines if possible. Largemouth Bass - Excellent: Most are feeding along the edge of weed lines. Use a bright colored spinner that imitates minnows. Try also frog imitation lures in the weedy backwaters. White Bass - Good: Look for feeding schools of white bass in the morning and evenings. Small spinners and white jigs work best. Bluegill - Good: Bluegills have returned  to the creel. Try fishing along vegetation lines in 4 to 6 feet of water. Flathead Catfish - Good: Try live bait in high current areas or above large brush piles.  Smallmouth Bass - Good: Focus on rock lines and piles with strong current. Spinners, jigs and crankbaits work best. White Crappie - Good: Some nice crappies were reported coming out of deeper backwater areas along newly exposed brush piles.  Mississippi River Pool 14
      Water levels are 6.1 feet at Fulton Lock and Dam, 10.2 feet at Camanche and 5 feet at LeClaire. Expect water levels to drop this upcoming week. Water clarity is fair. The water temperature is around 82 degrees. Channel Catfish - Excellent: Try stink bait or worms near shore or along brush piles. Freshwater Drum - Excellent: Use a simple egg sinker/worm rig in moderate current areas. Find fish near the shoreline in flooded conditions. Largemouth Bass - Good: Bright colored spinners fished along flooded shorelines are picking up some bass. White Bass - Good: Some schools of white bass have been seen in the tailwater area. Use bright jigs or flashy lures. Smallmouth Bass - Fair: Focus on rock lines and rock piles with strong current. Flathead Catfish - Good: Some flatheads are hitting crankbaits and jigs along rocky areas. Anglers are using live baits on trot lines with some success. Bluegill - Good: Lower ends of Rock Creek and Catfish Slough have produced some nice bluegills; mainly using worms and bobbers. White Crappie - No Report: Try newly exposed brush piles with small minnows and jigs.  Mississippi River Pool 15
      Water levels are 6.3 feet at Rock Island. Expect water levels to drop this upcoming week. Water clarity continues to improve. The water temperature is around 82 degrees. Channel Catfish - Excellent: Try stink bait or worms near shore. Freshwater Drum - Excellent: Use an egg sinker and worm rig fished near shore in moderate current areas. Flathead Catfish - Good: Use live bait above large dead falls. Smallmouth Bass - Fair: Try spinners, jigs and crankbaits in rock lines and piles with strong current.  Water levels are receding throughout the district. Levels are below what anglers have seen in a few years. Be careful boating; many underwater hazards are now exposed. If you have any angling questions, please contact the Bellevue Fisheries Station 563-872-4976.   
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