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Plaster Walls


MJBaldwin

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Back on here again for your gentleman's great thoughts and or experiences. I know most of you probably still don't have lathe and plaster walls although my house being built in 1928 I do. We are changing our spare room into our son's "big boy room". I took off wainscoting last night and of course they glued it. This resulted in it peeling all the textured wall paint off. I am wondering if i should just buy one of those paint rollers that can provide texture? Just trying to get a game plan before I try 10 things and only 1 work!

Thanks in advance

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The save big money store sells a ceiling paint that has texture in it . I used it in a large room where the sheet rock had been damaged and the repair was not perfect , it hid the imperfections well .I would patch the wall as best you can (if needed) then paint with the textured paint

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I'm not sure the problem.  Is this a house with plaster that has a texture to the surface, like they did back in the day?  Or was it some sort of a coating like on a textured ceiling?     And did removing the glue wreck the surface?

A common thing to do, which you might not like if you like the texture, is to cover the plaster with 1/4 inch sheet rock.  Then you have a nice smooth surface to paint.  Matching the existing texture and making it look good would be almost impossible, seems to me, unless maybe you can find a 80 year old retired plasterer....

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I think I remember when you could buy a bag of some material and add it too a can of paint and you would get a finish that looks a bit like sandpaper.  I think that's what you're talking about.  If so I would recommend that you go to a real paint store and ask them about what is available now.  Then buy what you need and ask them to mix it up for you.  I can't imagine that a DIY mixing effort would get the 'sand' spread evening through the entire can of paint.

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The other kind of texture found on real plaster walls was put on by the plasterer as he troweled the plaster onto the wall.  We had that in our 1930's house in St Paul when I was a kid.  That style would be very hard to replace. 

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 Scrape then brush off any loose stuff.  

  Prime.

Quick Set 45 if you have trowel experience,  otherwise Plus 3. Thin with water.

12" knife.  Skin coat, you'll be feathered flush at the wall and fill in the peeled areas.

Let dry and knock off the ridges and finish coat. Depending on the finish you can add sand, or use the appropriate nap roller when painting.

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7 hours ago, Surface Tension said:

 Scrape then brush off any loose stuff.  

  Prime.

Quick Set 45 if you have trowel experience,  otherwise Plus 3. Thin with water.

12" knife.  Skin coat, you'll be feathered flush at the wall and fill in the peeled areas.

Let dry and knock off the ridges and finish coat. Depending on the finish you can add sand, or use the appropriate nap roller when painting.

I just recalled, they make rollers with a pattern on them.  Rubber, look sort of like a paint roller, to get a particular pattern.  Also check out "venetian plaster"

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How did it go?

BTW..Homex makes texture in a spray can.You can get it at any hardware store or paint store.You can adjust the texture size from fine to heavy finish and also adjust the pressure.There is the orange peel and the knock down finishes.Shake the hell out of the can and test it on some cardboard until you get the setting you are looking for.Even the finest setting for the orange peel will be pretty close too "some" of the old school sandy type finishes.Depends on thickness of it.If it's larger sand you may just have to add sand to the paint and roll that  whole wall out with it so it's  uniform .Patch first where needed of course.Durabond 5,20 or 45 will work for patching 

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JeremyCampbell,

Sorry for the long delay, went actually pretty well I thought I could buy a "thicker" roller but everyone that i talked to in stores suggested not doing that as it wont give any texture. I just ended up buying a couple cans of that Homex stuff and worked out pretty well!

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By the way, I found out something while replacing a couple doors.  You need wider jambs in an older house with plaster walls since the plaster is more like 3/4 instead of the 1/2 of sheet rock, and old 2x4s are 3 3/4 instead of 3 5/8 or whatever they are now.  Fortunately the back side of the doors isn't too visible so when I get the little strips in and put the casing on that side no one will notice.  :blush:

Measured everything else twice or three times...

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That's great.  Will save you money.   Our doors are that 50s bleached oak, and were getting sort of worn after nearly 60 years.  Looking at doing a couple more, but will order correct jamb this time.   :blush:

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