Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. 😀

Propane auger vs ION


Recommended Posts

X2

I had a 2 stroke, sold and bought an Ion, sold that and bought a propane, sold that and bought a Strikemaster with a 4 stroke Honda and couldn't be happier with it. I use it in the wheel house all the time. Sometimes it sets off the smoke alarm but it doesn't set off the CO2 detector.

X3

I have had electric and 2 stroke went to the Robyn Subaru Strikelite and love it. I have the 224 bit on one and lazer on the other. It will start in -30 weather cuts fast and not much fumes. My built in CO2 dector will go off after drilling 5 or 6 holes in 20"+ of ice. Just open the door for a little bit and its fine.

Link to post
Share on other sites

COMPLETELY off topic but please keep a window or door open when using a 4 stroke inside your house. It DOES and WILL emit CO...I hate having to go to work at all hours of the night. And please keep the door open for more then a little bit as the half life of CO is around 5.5 hours.

Okay, carry on!

Edited by ClownColor
Link to post
Share on other sites

Can I ask what the hassle is with a gas auger? I keep hearing guys say you don't have to deal with the hassle of gas...I fill up and a one gallon can and add when needed haha.. If you drill a lot of hole don't get the propane them bad boys are heavy...

Link to post
Share on other sites

There is no way you will get 20 years out of a Lithium Ion battery, you won't even get 10. Lithium Ion's are not designed to be fully discharged, it's incredibly hard on them. If you have two batteries, you must be fully discharging one each trip, or I don't know why you have two. They don't have memory, so recharging them from a partial discharge is a good thing, bringing them to 0% is horrible for them.

You cannot judge a lithium ion battery by it's charging cycles, maybe a probably maintained battery over a short life span will give you 600 charging cycles, but lithium ion batteries do not age well at all, in fact it is a major flaw of the technology.

I'm not trying to argue against the ION, but please do not buy one thinking you will get 5 years out of each battery

Link to post
Share on other sites

I agree that you will not get the 600-800 charge cycles out of the lithium battery.  But, the good thing is that at least you should be able to see it coming when your battery is wearing down and you should have time to buy a new one.  I would prefer that over my Strikemaster Solo where you are 90% sure it will break down on a given trip, but you just don't know if it will be the carb, handle, recoil, clutch, kill switch, or who knows what else.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I agree that you will not get the 600-800 charge cycles out of the lithium battery.  But, the good thing is that at least you should be able to see it coming when your battery is wearing down and you should have time to buy a new one.  I would prefer that over my Strikemaster Solo where you are 90% sure it will break down on a given trip, but you just don't know if it will be the carb, handle, recoil, clutch, kill switch, or who knows what else.

LOL...I'm a gas guy and this is too funny AND true...regarding SM of course and especially the handle part, ha ha. I've witnessed quite a few broken handles and about died laughing one day when my buddy snapped his pull cord right off! But until a battery auger can pop 100+ holes and battery prices come down remarkably, I'll stay with my (NON-SM) gas auger. I love my Nils and that if anything should happen to the Tanka power head, I can take the auger off and connect it to the hand crank for emergency use...something ALL gas auger companies should do.

Edited by ClownColor
Link to post
Share on other sites

To get 100 holes out of my Strikemaster I would have to change blades 2, maybe 3 times. Laser blades are just not dependable. Horrible at reopening holes too, that really took out blades fast on mine. Good auger once I bought the chipper blade but it never has made it to the ice since I bought my Ion.

Link to post
Share on other sites

98.4% of pull cord snapping issues and busted recoils are operator error.  

I can't speak for the handle issue that apparently plagues SM, but I can say my 7 year old mag 200 with the tecumseh on top has given me very little troubles.  I give it some PM TLC and try not to bash it around.

Edited by bobbymalone
Link to post
Share on other sites

Obviously I just made that up.  But how many times have you seen a busted recoil or a snapped string that wasn't yanked all the way to the stop?  

Yank any pull cord to the stop on any piece of equipment by any manufacturer and you'll eventually break it or the recoil.

Edited by bobbymalone
Link to post
Share on other sites

98.4% of pull cord snapping issues and busted recoils are operator error.  

I can't speak for the handle issue that apparently plagues SM, but I can say my 7 year old mag 200 with the tecumseh on top has given me very little troubles.  I give it some PM TLC and try not to bash it around.

Not in my case.  The cord on my Solo has never been pulled to the stop.  It blew up on me and, just knowing it would happen again, I ordered a brand new one, plus the parts to fix the old one.  The brand new one lasted about two starts.  Luckily I had the spare that I rebuilt.  It's hard to make a recoil stand up when 97.3% of the time it takes 236 pulls to get the auger started.

I used to be a die-hard Strikemaster guy.  I have a Mag III that's older than I am and works great.  It's one of the more dependable pieces of equipment I have, but can not turn the 10" auger I use for lake trout.  So, I got the big Solo to do the job 4 years ago.  It is, without a doubt, the worst piece of equipment I have ever owned.  On 3 fishing trips in a row last year it left me in the middle of the lake without a working auger.  I've gotten it tuned up by the pros, I've rebuilt the carbs myself, and have done everything in between.  My dad and uncle each have one and have had as much, or more trouble than I have.

Hopefully all of that is in the past.  I bought the bigger Tanaka powerhead last year towards the end of the season and put my Lazer auger on it.  It pulls and starts much easier, is WAY quieter, and is every bit as fast as the Solo pro.  An electric auger would not work for my fishing style (though it would work better than my SM) so hopefully this is the solution to my problem. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

The Tecumsehs were good engines!  I hope my Tanaka is as reliable as they were.

I do think electric augers are the future, they are just not quite there yet for the way a lot of us fish.  I can't wait until they are, though.

Link to post
Share on other sites

pulled the trigger on the ION at the show got a good deal plus some freebies included. Cant wait to use it now. Might have to head to RED to try it out tomorrow instead of Christmas shopping with the wife:D.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't know about the Ion.  I do know that my electric drill for anchoring my portable doesn't like the cold. Last year I used a Jiffy Pro 4.  One tank lasted the season.  I am thinking more than 120 holes drilled ranging from 6" early ice to 24" for the last trip. 

When going out, my two friends would be still playing with their gas augers while I had a dozen holes opened. They liked my auger so much, they both bought one for this season. For the cold, I have been out at -24 one weekend.  It always started the 1st pulled. 

The propane auger is one of the best tools for ice fishing. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a strikemaster strike light with the steel auger and love it to death. If I had to buy a new auger tomorrow I would probably buy the Honda Lite. However a close second would be the Eskimo HC40. I fish out of portables. If I was buying an auger for a wheel house it would be for sure the ION. Good luck on your purchase. They are all great augers!! There are a lot of good choices out there and they all drill holes it really is a personal choice, and how you fish.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • On C/list now post 2hrs ago.  That will plow some food plots for yeah. Talk um down a bit. 😉   Polaris Sportsman 6x6- ONLY 500 miles - $4,500 Registration card in hand and ready to go . 2005 Polaris sportsman 6x6. 500 cc. Runs great , carb just gone through , spark plug replaced. Brand new battery. ONLY 500 original miles . Comes with plow and winch .    
    • C/List is dying with not that many wheelers or sleds posted as there use to be. I know some folks don't want to get on Facebook, but Facebook Market place is the site to look on now. Tons of them listed. You could join, look for what you want, then get off before the relatives find out!  Lol   I picked up a 2009 Polaris Sportsman 500HO almost spotless with only about 450 miles on it last fall for $3500. It does take some digging and price wrangling, I looked at a few before I found this one. He wanted $3,800 for it. Good Luck.
    • If nonresident, the first 2 seasons can be tough to draw. The closest I have drawn was the C season.
    • Mileage can be relative.....my last wheeler had 10,000+ miles on it and I sold it to a friend. He is still riding it with over 13,000. Since that time I have put over 6000 on my current one. I was going to update this year but decided against it since they are so hard to come by right now. (and I still love this one)  I am admittedly a diehard Honda owner and have never and likely wouldn’t shop for anything else. I’ve had 13 different ATVs in the 44 years I’ve owned them and to this day not one has ever had a warranty visit. I think that speaks volumes.  I don’t baby my machine, it’s seen it’s share of mud 😉 but I maintain it well. I’d have no hesitation to take it anywhere, or sell it to a friend. Rundrave gave you some good sound advice for shopping, but don’t let mileage be your main determining factor. Well-maintained is better than low miles in many cases.  I do repairs on ATVs for friends, relatives etc, and aside from general appearance , the main things that I’d watch for on older machines is loose or noisy wheel bearings, brakes that don’t work well or drag, cv axles and boots and seals. Look at fluids, especially front and rear differentials, engine oil and antifreeze if it’s a liquid cooled machine. As far as tires, meh, I personally pulled off my new stock ones and replaced them before it had even been out of the garage, so the stock ones are like brand new. People replace them for all sorts of reasons including where they ride and what they use it for. 
    • Its hard to say, 1k miles in mud and beaten on could be worse than a well maintained machine with 5k that saw easy use.   I always look at the seat,  the exhaust pipe and tires. If the seat is worn, has holes etc it been ridden hard. If you can still read the logo and it doesn't have any rips or tears that says a lot.  If the exhaust header pipe and muffler is rusty its seen a lot of mud and water. If the tires are not OEM it had the original tires worn off. What did they replace them with and why? If they replaced it with big mud tires they rode in mud etc. Talk to the owner, make sure they kept up on maintenance. You will get a good feel for how it was used. Old man that just checked fields and livestock but high miles or young guy that mud rode with his buddies etc.   For under $5k I would just suggest looking for a machine  with EFI thats shaft drive . Carbs are great and most have pull start as a back up but I would have a hard time trusting an old carb unless your not afraid to dive into one yourself. Stay away from anything with chains and sprockets. They were unreliable and I wouldn't buy a one new off the showroom floor.
    • Under 5K. Looking at the list of Craig, that puts me in late 90's early 2000's machine for the most part with a few newer in that range.    What is considered high miles for an ATV? Most I see are in the 2000 range. 
    • what's your budget?   any of the newer machines in the last 10yrs will be reliable regardless of brand. get power steering if you can swing it    I am actually shopping hard right now myself. Looking to spend $5k to $7500 but prices are crazy right now. If I go any higher I might as well get a SxS. New prices are ridiculous for both.    I am just looking for that low mileage machine that someone never used and wants to get rid of. They are out there someone just keeps gets to them before I do.
    • I've never owned an ATV and ridden very few. I am looking to get a used machine for my hunting property. It will be mainly used for food plot creation and maintenance as well as some snow plowing. Any recommendations or things to look for?
    • shut down facebook      I miss the glory days on here and seeing these builds 
    • I did exactly the same thing, those pictures are invaluable. Mine starts with the bare trailer the day I brought it home. Man, that was a lot of work hours ago.  What needs to be done to get people back on HSO? 
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.