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mattLi

New Ice House Frame

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 I Built a new ice house Frame this weekend its 8x14 with a 4' v-front. I used 2x3x3/16 for the outside frame 3x3x3/16 for the hitch and 2x4x3/16 for axle arm and 2x2x1/8 for some cross members. We also used a little different design for the pivot point by supporting it on two sides and with a pin I think it will be much stronger. I used 205 75D 15 tires 3500# axle hubs and 3500# springs. It weighs 920 lbs with 200 lbs of tongue weight and pulls like a dream.

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Every man's dream garage! Nice job. Mine was built like that also and I ended up tacking some supports in the middle of the back sections also for screwing to. It may have been a little overkill my floor is rock solid. The back will probably have table or couch so not as important as the middle of the wheel well back to that last section. You spend a lot of time walking in that area and it'll bug you forever if you have ANY flex. Most houses have a hole or two between the wheel wells so the floor, even with 3/4 inch plywood support, is weaker there. It can be 1 inch square tube or even angle but it's worth it. Don at Miltona thought I was crazy but i did it before putting the house on anyway, glad I did.

Edited by Hawg

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Just noticed-That was a good idea to stub out those wheel assembly pivots for 2 sided support.

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Thanks Ya I think I will put some 2x2x3/16 down the center in the back. What is the best to use on the floor pressure treated 3/4 or is there an inexpensive marine grade flooring that would be better?

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Search posts by Lip_Ripper Guy. He does very good builds and uses Advantech. You need their good top of the line board and it's a composite. I'm a 3/4 inch treated guy, both will last longer than either of us. Nobody around here sells Advantech that I could find. Get their good stuff if you go that route. 

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I put on two coats of Herculiner this weekend man that stuff is awesome I think I might use it on the floor inside as well.561bab6def7a8_IMG_32011.thumb.JPG.31fc7f

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Nice start on your build. A few things I noticed and thought I'd comment on. I'm a firm believer in running the hitch tube all the way to the back. It gives you much more stiffness in the rear frame section especially since the tubes just inside your wheels aren't full length.

It looks like your distance from the wheel pivots to the stub axles is much longer than it needs to be. The longer that tube, the higher the risk of torsional twisting under load. I like how you contained both ends of the pivot point but I could see your 3/16" tube twisting between the pivot and stub axle.

It is hard to tell the size of the springs in the pics. Are you saying each spring is 3500#, or are they 3500#/pair?

You mentioned that the trailer is 920# with 200# tongue weight. Typically you want to design to have approximately 12% of your weight on the tongue. You currently have approximately 22%, so at that rate you will have roughly 1000# tongue weight when finished.

Good luck as you continue your build. Ice season is just around the corner.

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Thanks for your comments I also agree now that I should have run the hitch tube all the way back but I am thinking the house frame should stiffen it up as well. Also the axle tube is 2x4x 1/4" I entered it in wrong earlier.  Yes the springs are 3500 as a pair I am not going to have much on the interior as far as cabinets and bunks so I am thinking it will be under 3000lb when it is completed. The axles are where they are going to be so if I put some cabinets and bunks towards the back  and leave the v- front open for fishing would that take off some tongue weight?

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Careful, it doesn't take much of a house to go over 3500#'s. That's a good catch on the tubes inside the wheels not being full length also.

Edited by Hawg

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Weight does add up quick, the house I finished weighs more than I thought it would... but I have a problem with not enough tongue weight, and I have to pack all of our clothes/food/coolers towards the front to help it pull correctly. So tongue weight problems can go both ways, I would just keep an eye on it and make decisions where you put things like batteries and such. 

Edited by brian6715

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Matt, placement of things inside will certainly change the center of gravity and make a difference on your tongue load. You could kill two birds with one change. Your pivot arm length would not need to change but you could move the stub axles closer to the pivot point allowing only enough room to attach the front end of your fenders to the pivot tube. Doing this would reduce tongue weight and reduce the risk of your pivot arms twisting under load. Brian is correct, weight will add up quick. I built a 6'6" x 14' plus V and I am just over 3000#. Plus my trailer was nearly 200#'s lighter than you are so I am guessing you will be 3500# or more.

Another thing I noticed is your rear winches. Do the winch pillars lean to the back? When framing your wheel wells make sure you allow plenty of clearance on the back side for when the winch handles are straight back. You don't want to have knuckle busters.

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With the winches I plan on making a removable handle that slides on and sticks out the side like for the trap on a grain trailer so I can make the wheel wells a little tighter. Thank you guys for all your comments and pointers I really appreciate it.

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Is there something I could use for the interior that would be lighter than wood planking but still attractive and water resistant? And which would be heavier rubber roofing or regular barn tin?

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With the winches I plan on making a removable handle that slides on and sticks out the side like for the trap on a grain trailer so I can make the wheel wells a little tighter. Thank you guys for all your comments and pointers I really appreciate it.

I don't know if this is an original idea, but very clever on the cranks. That must save at least 6 inches.

Good questions on the roofing and paneling. They make some plastic type paneling products that aren't supposed to shrink or expand. I have been toying with the idea of doing the bottom 2-4 feet and ceiling with that. I would think a metal roof would be lighter because rubber needs 3/8 or 1/2 inch ply wood under it(I am not sure what is recommended).

From what I have read metal roofs can cause some leaking issues. For this reason I would go with rubber.

I am currently at about the same stage of the build. I am hoping to frame this weekend.

More questions than answers, but just my 2 cents.

Edited by moogtog

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Carefull, those winches turn hard and you don't want the handles slipping off or binding. I would definatly try to steer you toward rubber on the roof. 

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Is there something I could use for the interior that would be lighter than wood planking but still attractive and water resistant? And which would be heavier rubber roofing or regular barn tin?

If the option is a one piece rubber roof (with plywood backing) or the 3' wide pole barn tin/steel installed with screws, I'd pick rubber every time.  Better yet is a one piece seamless aluminum roof held on with two sided tape.  No leaks, and super lightweight.

For the interior, there are various plastic/fiberglass products available.  One readily available option is FRP (Fiberglass Reinforced Panels) from Menards.  They come in white or black and are commonly used in bathrooms and restaurants.     

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Well I got the Drymax installed(similar to Advantech) really nice stuff other than the fact that I didn't realize that you cant run it the wide way on 24" centers because the tongue and grove is cut out of the 48"inches I figured that out after I cut them so I had to leave a little gap and fill it with silicone.

I got the bottom sprayed its a little bumpy but the guy who did it is my neighbor so I'm not complaining he quoted me $1000 to do the whole house.

Got the first wall done it actually went pretty good I glued and screwed all the joints with PL premium.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Edited by mattlinster

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Better bring some garbage bags when you set that on the ice or some stacked 2x's to sit it on otherwise you're going to be cleaning foam off the ice every time you use it.

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Wall number two went up last night. I learned that ripping 2x4's on a cheap table saw is not fun the blade twists and you get uneven boards. I'm wondering how many feet of wire I will need foe my 12volt I will have 3 ceiling lights and 8 hole lights one outside light and a couple 12 volt plugins. I plan on using 14/2 or 16/2 speaker wire.

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I can't remember for sure but it's about 4 times more than you think, I was stunned by how many times I went for more wire. Put grounds everywhere, to the point of insanity, you'll be glad you did. IT'S ALWAYS THE GROUND!!!!  Good idea using a real door. Man that crank looks tight, is it just the angle of the photo?

Edited by Hawg

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Just finished up wiring my new Yetti shell.  For all my 12V I used Coleman Cable 14/2, Direct Burial Speaker Cable from Menards ($30 - 100ft).  I used 3 rolls for my hole lights, 4 ceiling lights, thermostat, LP/CO Detector, and my outside lights.  I would start out with 2 at least and buy another one if you need it. 

 http://www.menards.com/main/electrical/electronics/audio-video-cables/coleman-cable-14-2-direct-burial-speaker-cable/p-1444426727332-c-6297.htm?tid=-2878802915379470041

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Ya the cranks are really tight I plan on making a removable handle with an extension so It will be outside the wheel well I didn't want to use up my interior space on wheel wells. I might need to do some mods worst case I could install some electric jacks like some guys do.

So when I start wiring and i get a two strand cable should i run a cable from the distribution block to each light or can i run them in series like all the hole lights. If i did that I wouldn't be able to run all of them off one switch and can I use a regular 110 light switch for my 12 volt they are way cheaper and probably more durable in the long run.

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Run your lights in Parallel NOT series.  So from your power center you will run your wire to your switch and connect (connection depends on your switch).  From the switch you will just run two wires (one cable) to all the lights you want controlled by that switch.  You will just use one long piece of cable for all the lights, you won't need to an individual wire to each light. 

 

If you are having individual switches for each hole light then imagine each switch/light combo as a "unit".  You will wire each "unit" in parallel with each other, using one long cable for the entire circuit.  So in the picture below, each light would be replaced with a "unit" and the switch will only control that individual light. 

 

I highly recommend doing LED lights and if you get ones that are dimmable, you can add a dimmable switch like this one which can come in handy.  LED may be a little more spendy up front but they have A LOT less current draw on your battery and you will never need to replace them.  Here are links to the lights and switch I just installed in my Yetti (3 lights were plenty in my 8x16). 

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-dome-light-fixtures-non-waterproof/105-oval-dome-light-led-fixture-with-switch/1490/3465/ 

 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S667XZA?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
 

 

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Edited by YettiStyle

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