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mattLi

New Ice House Frame

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 I Built a new ice house Frame this weekend its 8x14 with a 4' v-front. I used 2x3x3/16 for the outside frame 3x3x3/16 for the hitch and 2x4x3/16 for axle arm and 2x2x1/8 for some cross members. We also used a little different design for the pivot point by supporting it on two sides and with a pin I think it will be much stronger. I used 205 75D 15 tires 3500# axle hubs and 3500# springs. It weighs 920 lbs with 200 lbs of tongue weight and pulls like a dream.

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Every man's dream garage! Nice job. Mine was built like that also and I ended up tacking some supports in the middle of the back sections also for screwing to. It may have been a little overkill my floor is rock solid. The back will probably have table or couch so not as important as the middle of the wheel well back to that last section. You spend a lot of time walking in that area and it'll bug you forever if you have ANY flex. Most houses have a hole or two between the wheel wells so the floor, even with 3/4 inch plywood support, is weaker there. It can be 1 inch square tube or even angle but it's worth it. Don at Miltona thought I was crazy but i did it before putting the house on anyway, glad I did.

Edited by Hawg

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Just noticed-That was a good idea to stub out those wheel assembly pivots for 2 sided support.

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Thanks Ya I think I will put some 2x2x3/16 down the center in the back. What is the best to use on the floor pressure treated 3/4 or is there an inexpensive marine grade flooring that would be better?

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Search posts by Lip_Ripper Guy. He does very good builds and uses Advantech. You need their good top of the line board and it's a composite. I'm a 3/4 inch treated guy, both will last longer than either of us. Nobody around here sells Advantech that I could find. Get their good stuff if you go that route. 

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I put on two coats of Herculiner this weekend man that stuff is awesome I think I might use it on the floor inside as well.561bab6def7a8_IMG_32011.thumb.JPG.31fc7f

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Nice start on your build. A few things I noticed and thought I'd comment on. I'm a firm believer in running the hitch tube all the way to the back. It gives you much more stiffness in the rear frame section especially since the tubes just inside your wheels aren't full length.

It looks like your distance from the wheel pivots to the stub axles is much longer than it needs to be. The longer that tube, the higher the risk of torsional twisting under load. I like how you contained both ends of the pivot point but I could see your 3/16" tube twisting between the pivot and stub axle.

It is hard to tell the size of the springs in the pics. Are you saying each spring is 3500#, or are they 3500#/pair?

You mentioned that the trailer is 920# with 200# tongue weight. Typically you want to design to have approximately 12% of your weight on the tongue. You currently have approximately 22%, so at that rate you will have roughly 1000# tongue weight when finished.

Good luck as you continue your build. Ice season is just around the corner.

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Thanks for your comments I also agree now that I should have run the hitch tube all the way back but I am thinking the house frame should stiffen it up as well. Also the axle tube is 2x4x 1/4" I entered it in wrong earlier.  Yes the springs are 3500 as a pair I am not going to have much on the interior as far as cabinets and bunks so I am thinking it will be under 3000lb when it is completed. The axles are where they are going to be so if I put some cabinets and bunks towards the back  and leave the v- front open for fishing would that take off some tongue weight?

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Careful, it doesn't take much of a house to go over 3500#'s. That's a good catch on the tubes inside the wheels not being full length also.

Edited by Hawg

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Weight does add up quick, the house I finished weighs more than I thought it would... but I have a problem with not enough tongue weight, and I have to pack all of our clothes/food/coolers towards the front to help it pull correctly. So tongue weight problems can go both ways, I would just keep an eye on it and make decisions where you put things like batteries and such. 

Edited by brian6715

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Matt, placement of things inside will certainly change the center of gravity and make a difference on your tongue load. You could kill two birds with one change. Your pivot arm length would not need to change but you could move the stub axles closer to the pivot point allowing only enough room to attach the front end of your fenders to the pivot tube. Doing this would reduce tongue weight and reduce the risk of your pivot arms twisting under load. Brian is correct, weight will add up quick. I built a 6'6" x 14' plus V and I am just over 3000#. Plus my trailer was nearly 200#'s lighter than you are so I am guessing you will be 3500# or more.

Another thing I noticed is your rear winches. Do the winch pillars lean to the back? When framing your wheel wells make sure you allow plenty of clearance on the back side for when the winch handles are straight back. You don't want to have knuckle busters.

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With the winches I plan on making a removable handle that slides on and sticks out the side like for the trap on a grain trailer so I can make the wheel wells a little tighter. Thank you guys for all your comments and pointers I really appreciate it.

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Is there something I could use for the interior that would be lighter than wood planking but still attractive and water resistant? And which would be heavier rubber roofing or regular barn tin?

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With the winches I plan on making a removable handle that slides on and sticks out the side like for the trap on a grain trailer so I can make the wheel wells a little tighter. Thank you guys for all your comments and pointers I really appreciate it.

I don't know if this is an original idea, but very clever on the cranks. That must save at least 6 inches.

Good questions on the roofing and paneling. They make some plastic type paneling products that aren't supposed to shrink or expand. I have been toying with the idea of doing the bottom 2-4 feet and ceiling with that. I would think a metal roof would be lighter because rubber needs 3/8 or 1/2 inch ply wood under it(I am not sure what is recommended).

From what I have read metal roofs can cause some leaking issues. For this reason I would go with rubber.

I am currently at about the same stage of the build. I am hoping to frame this weekend.

More questions than answers, but just my 2 cents.

Edited by moogtog

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Carefull, those winches turn hard and you don't want the handles slipping off or binding. I would definatly try to steer you toward rubber on the roof. 

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Is there something I could use for the interior that would be lighter than wood planking but still attractive and water resistant? And which would be heavier rubber roofing or regular barn tin?

If the option is a one piece rubber roof (with plywood backing) or the 3' wide pole barn tin/steel installed with screws, I'd pick rubber every time.  Better yet is a one piece seamless aluminum roof held on with two sided tape.  No leaks, and super lightweight.

For the interior, there are various plastic/fiberglass products available.  One readily available option is FRP (Fiberglass Reinforced Panels) from Menards.  They come in white or black and are commonly used in bathrooms and restaurants.     

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Well I got the Drymax installed(similar to Advantech) really nice stuff other than the fact that I didn't realize that you cant run it the wide way on 24" centers because the tongue and grove is cut out of the 48"inches I figured that out after I cut them so I had to leave a little gap and fill it with silicone.

I got the bottom sprayed its a little bumpy but the guy who did it is my neighbor so I'm not complaining he quoted me $1000 to do the whole house.

Got the first wall done it actually went pretty good I glued and screwed all the joints with PL premium.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Edited by mattlinster

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Better bring some garbage bags when you set that on the ice or some stacked 2x's to sit it on otherwise you're going to be cleaning foam off the ice every time you use it.

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Wall number two went up last night. I learned that ripping 2x4's on a cheap table saw is not fun the blade twists and you get uneven boards. I'm wondering how many feet of wire I will need foe my 12volt I will have 3 ceiling lights and 8 hole lights one outside light and a couple 12 volt plugins. I plan on using 14/2 or 16/2 speaker wire.

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I can't remember for sure but it's about 4 times more than you think, I was stunned by how many times I went for more wire. Put grounds everywhere, to the point of insanity, you'll be glad you did. IT'S ALWAYS THE GROUND!!!!  Good idea using a real door. Man that crank looks tight, is it just the angle of the photo?

Edited by Hawg

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Just finished up wiring my new Yetti shell.  For all my 12V I used Coleman Cable 14/2, Direct Burial Speaker Cable from Menards ($30 - 100ft).  I used 3 rolls for my hole lights, 4 ceiling lights, thermostat, LP/CO Detector, and my outside lights.  I would start out with 2 at least and buy another one if you need it. 

 http://www.menards.com/main/electrical/electronics/audio-video-cables/coleman-cable-14-2-direct-burial-speaker-cable/p-1444426727332-c-6297.htm?tid=-2878802915379470041

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Ya the cranks are really tight I plan on making a removable handle with an extension so It will be outside the wheel well I didn't want to use up my interior space on wheel wells. I might need to do some mods worst case I could install some electric jacks like some guys do.

So when I start wiring and i get a two strand cable should i run a cable from the distribution block to each light or can i run them in series like all the hole lights. If i did that I wouldn't be able to run all of them off one switch and can I use a regular 110 light switch for my 12 volt they are way cheaper and probably more durable in the long run.

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Run your lights in Parallel NOT series.  So from your power center you will run your wire to your switch and connect (connection depends on your switch).  From the switch you will just run two wires (one cable) to all the lights you want controlled by that switch.  You will just use one long piece of cable for all the lights, you won't need to an individual wire to each light. 

 

If you are having individual switches for each hole light then imagine each switch/light combo as a "unit".  You will wire each "unit" in parallel with each other, using one long cable for the entire circuit.  So in the picture below, each light would be replaced with a "unit" and the switch will only control that individual light. 

 

I highly recommend doing LED lights and if you get ones that are dimmable, you can add a dimmable switch like this one which can come in handy.  LED may be a little more spendy up front but they have A LOT less current draw on your battery and you will never need to replace them.  Here are links to the lights and switch I just installed in my Yetti (3 lights were plenty in my 8x16). 

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-dome-light-fixtures-non-waterproof/105-oval-dome-light-led-fixture-with-switch/1490/3465/ 

 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S667XZA?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
 

 

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Edited by YettiStyle

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  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • Without a doubt......NAP KILLZONE.  Shoot great and really drop the hammer when they connect with a deer.
    • Another win for the icefishinnut  with 323 pts. For win number 3 in the year.😀 2--Fishing_Novice             311 3--Juneau4                         292 4--BlackLundProV             283 5--Rip_Some_Lip               267 6--huckfin                           247 7--mnwildman                   239 8--rl_sd                                208 9--Swiveldigger                  80 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Season totals 1--Fishing_Novice                   7811 2--Juneau4                               7658                   The score in the top three are getting closer and with the ROVEL and Dega --🤔 3--BlackLundProV                   7654 4--huckfin                                 7485 5--icefishinnut                         7398 6--Rip_Some_Lip                     7384 7--mnwildman                         7265 8--Swiveldigger                        6971 9--rl_sd                                      6623   Good luck with the guesses this week. ( except for the  Fishing_Novice!😁 BlackLundProV could back off a Little too.😁   Good Luck in the mess this Week.
    • Sounds like a great trip and a really fun experience, congratulations! Thanks for all the pictures and sharing your story. I know that's a lot of work and it is much appreciated.
    • At this point we had one full day and one morning left to hunt.  No more elk moved into the drainage behind camp.  By some miracle a cow and spike did come back to the hillside we had elk on that first evening, but neither Dad or I could get in position quick enough before they went back over the fence.     All added up we had 2 very good opportunities, and one decent, which by our standards and past experience in general OTC type units was a pretty decent week of elk hunting even though no elk were killed.  We learned a lot about the unit and a potential better way to access the landlocked area behind us via a possible easement logging road, but we have to confirm that with the forest service at a later date.       You might be wondering what happened with our whitetail tags.   We had numerous run-ins with deer on an almost daily basis.  There were at least three occasions where does would feed right into camp, and it got to a point I kept my bow in the cook shack to try to shoot out of it as a blind.  They never stuck around long enough though to actually get a shot off.      Dad sat his tree stand a number of times above camp as he came down at sunset with enough time to sit in a tree for a half hour or so, but the deer always seemed to pass through the spots he could not shoot or see.  One time he climbed down to two deer staring at him from within range, he just did not see them coming...   Almost every evening we walked down the road behind camp we would kick up a deer or two bedding in the quakeys, but as the week progressed they clearly became more skittish of us.  I also tried hunting back down the gravel road and found some good spots where they crossed the road and creek, which if I actually focused on sitting over with a treestand I feel I could have shot a deer, but I wanted an elk more...        Our Elk B tags are good through rifle season, as are the deer tags.  If the stars align and my wife allows I might make a run back out.  I have an acquaintance in the area that I am checking with to see if he might be interested.       I hope Scoot and ArcherySniper come back to report better luck on their hunts.  
    • It rained that night, and the next morning we went up high to glass back where we left the elk.  They seem to have never left the cut we saw them bed in.       Some interesting low clouds.   It rained all afternoon, but the forecast said it would clear a couple hours before sunset.   We observed snow on the high peaks in the distance.        Once the rain stopped and the skies looked clear we went back to see if we could finally shoot an elk.  We worked the wind back up to where we had last sat so we see the elk and still move down to intercept if they came down for water/feed.   The elk were still up high, but shifted left a couple cuts.  We were now close enough to confirm that the bull was in fact a smallish 6 point.       We waited a long time watching the cows get up to feed and then bed down again repeatedly.  As sunset neared the lead cow looked ready to commit to coming down.  Our plan was to run down fast to intercept, watching as we fast-walked down to the bottom.   It was clear now the elk were following the left most ridge, and moving quite fast, they definitely wanted to get to the bottom for the good creek water and green grass!      The plan was I would run ahead to intercept as I could get their faster.  I knew the place they were going, having scouted it earlier in the week.  It was a perfect funnel.  The cows went behind the narrow ridge they were following, but the bull stayed high watching the drainage.  I managed to get up through the saplings quietly and in position, and could see the bull up high, and the cows feeding and walking right to me on a string!      Unfortunately behind me I heard a loud stick break.  The bull did too and was pacing back and forth rapidly trying to figure out what was below him...  I could see my dad standing in the creek bottom.   I adjusted my position, the cows were coming closer, I ranged for shot options, they would pass within 40yd and the bull might walk right over me...    The bull unfortunately had had enough.  He swooped down to the cows and herded them back up the hill...  The cows had no clue what was going on, but the bull clearly was not stupid.   After waiting until it was close to dark I picked my way back down to my dad, who was standing on the cattle trail we had gone up previously.  It turned out that he tripped over a downfall fell badly.   He was not hurt, but he thought the bull could not see him, but I had a better view from above as to what was going on.  Those elk were not seen again for the rest of the hunt.    
    • Unfortunately the weather turned bad on us and it rained over night, I forget if it was day four or five.   In any case a cloud system rolled in and low cloud ceiling filled the drainage behind camp.        We went up the front side of the area hoping elk would be out there to get out of the clouds.  It was extremely windy now as well.  I went high back where I saw the spike days earlier and was glassing back up the drainage when I saw a bull and three cows in the wide open up high!   I considered running down the cut between us to try to intercept in the creek bottom below, but did not want to risk bumping these elk when they were the only elk in the entire drainage!     Dad sidehilled across to join me, followed by a herd of mule deer does...      Selfie with cloud covered hills.        We watched where the elk bedded and decided to ambush them in the evening.  We decided to drive out to town to hit the grocery store so Dad could have more fresh food and not have to resort to eating what I brought.  The cloud system over the area did not look good from below at all...     That evening we went to the hill the elk were on in the morning so we could see where they were bedded.  The clouds were so thick now in the drainage we could not see up to where the elk were.  It was very windy and cold. The elk never showed up.  We left before sunset.     Another selfie in the clouds, so cold and windy I had to break out the facemask and extra layers while hunkering down behind a blowdown.      
    • I told my dad that he should not follow me up that hill, it might kill him.  He did not take me seriously...  He followed anyway.  We left camp very early as it was a long walk up the drainage, and I wanted to be on top before the elk, but I still needed daylight to get up the dangerous last 700ft.     Sunrise behind me on the way up:   I made it to the top and set up in the rock outcropping.  Time passed, Dad was nowhere to be seen behind me.  I saw a group of elk below me in the next drainage, a nice bull and what might have been the cows/calves I was seeing on the spine the previous days...     I waited, and waited, and saw lots of fresh tracks in the dirt.  Dad showed up, still no elk up high...  We waited until about 10am, long past when they had passed through the other times.  The elk below us bedded and a satellite bull moved in on them.  Another bull was bugling to the one below us, and we heard one lone bugle to the right.   We had no intention of going down to try to shoot one, because if we did it would be a nightmare for us to get the meat out again.        We gave up and picked our way back down the chute and all the way to camp.  After doing this walk two days in a row my feet hurt like hell and I was beat.  I would not be able to do it again a third day in a row.     
    • I think it was the third morning when I walked back up the big drainage behind camp to get a good look on the ground for elk sign.  On the way I saw more elk way up on the spine of the drainage.  Lots more elk sign in the back cuts.  It was clear this area held a lot of elk during the summer, but they got busted out by hunters during the early part of the season.    I decided I was going to get a closer look at the potential trail to the top of the drainage spine.  I am a rock climber, so heights don't bother me so much.  I was more concerned about footing and if my dad could get up there, and if I did shoot one how would I get it down...   The top of the spine where I was targeting was 1600ft above camp, the last chute is about 700ft alone and very steep.   I slowly picked my way up the chute, sweating profusely in the sun, but was rewarded at the top.    The view back to camp:   The view down the back side, one square mile of almost entirely private landlocked national forest.       The elk highway along the spine that I was seeing elk use, and was covered in fresh tracks.       The elk trail at the top funnel together at a rock outcropping that I knew I had to use as a blind. If I shot an elk up here it would have to be at the very top, because hauling meat down the hill behind me was bad enough, but I did not want to have to haul any up the hill either as it was just as steep on the other side!   I made plans to come back early the next morning and kill an elk at this spot.   That evening I sat on the other hill we had been hunting more consistently, and watched the herd of elk taunting us from a far off ridge.  Here is one of the small satellite bulls.    
    • Dad had seen a black bear below him that first morning, and when I walked down the next day with him I was able to snap some photos in the early light with my bigger camera.  They are grainy, but it looked like a nice bear to me.  We did not have a tag.     Herd of elk way out on private range land:   Interesting spider:
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