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Reynolds

Frame size for permanent house?

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I am thinking of building either a 10x24 or 12x24 permanent house. Should a guy be using a 2x6 floor frame or is a 2x4 frame sufficient?

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2x6 would work but that's a big house, 2x6 should be ok. You'll probably want 6x6 white oak skids under that too.

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If you are only having two skids, I would use 2x6 to span the wide gap. If you are using 3 or 4 skids, I would think 2x4's would be just fine and keep you lower to the ice.

........ but I will add that I'm NOT a structural engineer, I'm sure there is one on here somewhere that can provide some professional input smile Maybe try posting your question in the home improvement forum? There are also span calculators online that can give you some numbers and psf's to get you started.

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If you are only having two skids, I would use 2x6 to span the wide gap. If you are using 3 or 4 skids, I would think 2x4's would be just fine

To add to this, the design will be just as important as the material. Are you running the floor stringers every 2, 3, or 4ft? Will the skids be on the very outer edge, or will they be set in a foot or two? You can get a basic idea for if a 2x4 frame will be stiff enough by taking a 10ft 2x4 and setting it on bricks at various points to simulate the runners, and then just stand on it. You'll notice that flex just as much when you're walking in the house.

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How do you transport something that big? 8 feet wide is max on roads w/o a permit.

Do you get enough ice in Florida to make that thing work?

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Tom7227,

There are a few guys in the Mille Lacs area that will transport fish houses of that size. I plan on building one at home and then have it moved to one of the resorts.

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Hmmm...

2x6 would certainly work. 2x4 would be really nice though.

Unfortunately none of the joist span tables I have go down to 2x4. I'd try to do some tests to see how 2x4s feel. I'd set up a couple 2x4s parallel, 10 ft apart (laying them flat on a flat surface). Then put 8 or so 2x4s up on edge spanning them. I'd do them 12 inches on center, then lay a sheet or couple sheets of plywood over them and walk around. The 2x4x shouldn't tip over once the plywood is on it. This will give you some idea of the bounce. I also think this will be an exaggerated representation. I think once the ply is glued and screwed, it will bounce less than in the test. Once built, the plywood will stop the tops of the joists from moving around (tipping or racking). If tipping or racking is a concern during moves, you may be able to put some metal strapping across the bottoms of the joists to minimize any movement.

Having the skids set under a foot or so would help the bouncing of the floor, reducing the span of the joists, but could be problematic for blocking the frame up and for chipping skids out if you did get frozen in. Could also be an issue if you wanted holes right at the outside edge of the house.

Just my thoughts...

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