Concrete Apron Question

[chasineyes]

Hey all you concrete/handyman experts...I need to tear out my asphalt where it meets the garage floor (due to sinking). I want to tear out a 28' x 7' section in front of the garage and replace/install a concrete apron. My question is do I want to "anchor with rebar" the apron to the garage floor or just let it float? Also anyone know what concrete is going for? I got a quote from someone last fall for $950 to do the job...

THanks!!!!

[CAMAN]

I've seen the pro's drill holes for rebar and epoxy them in. Not sure if there is a code specification though.

[Tom7227]

I had a problem with the apron sinking and found that the blocks that were the footing for the garage hadn't been capped and I think a lot of fill washed down that area. I have mentioned this before and I can't recall what folks suggested. I tried to fill them as much as possible and then make sure they were capped. That worked for me but I don't know what is recommended. That may be why yours settled.

[eyehead]

We sell our 4000psi mix right around $105/yard...So somewhere in the nieghborhood of $345 in concrete cost for your apron around here. In the metro id imagine it would go for $10-25 more per yard?

[Down Deep]

I'm not a concrete expert, but have been involved in many pours. First make sure you excavate and clear the clay deep enough to get a good base. The proper depth would probably be available at your local code office. Then fill with some good compatible material like lime stone and compact. Every slab I've poured was left to float. I put a good frost barrier between each slab and then sealed each joint with a high quality self leveling rubberized caulk. I found my products at Brock / White the brick and stone dealer. They have everything for concrete and all the info necessary to come out with a good job.

I have a concrete apron in front of the garage that is 46' w X 40 L that has at least 6 separate slabs that all float and have had no sinking. I redo the joints about every 10 years and keep up with any cracks with pourable crack filler. The maintenance keeps the water seeping through the slabs to a minimum.

[Pat K]

If the frost heaves your apron in winter it will raise the garage floor with it if it is pinned with re-bar. Your door may not close tight and you will get a crack in the floor about 2' into the garage. I poured concrete for 22 years and would only tie aprons to garage slabs if people insisted on it. In my experience the re-bar caused problems much more often than it solved them.

[YiGGiN4SLoBS]

I would not attach the apron with rebar. We used to due this on slabs we poured a long time ago. We don't anymore. Like previously stated the apron can be moved by frost and the garage floor is on a footing. More then likely what will happen is the frost will just bust out smaller size chunks of concrete on your garage floor over the top of where you have the rebar stubbed.

If i were you i would just let it float. Also, pour your apron about 1/4 - 3/8 of an inch lower then your garage floor where they meet up.

[chasineyes]

Thanks guys! Just out of curiosity why would you want it "lower" than the garage floor? If I'm looking at $350 or so in concrete would paying someone $950 really be that bad? I assume it's gonna cost me some to get rid of the asphalt and then deal with whatever base I might need to bring in? In my amateur experience pouring the concrete is the easiest part. It's the prep that can get costly...

Thanks again!

[Pat K]

Thanks guys! Just out of curiosity why would you want it "lower" than the garage floor? If I'm looking at $350 or so in concrete would paying someone $950 really be that bad? I assume it's gonna cost me some to get rid of the asphalt and then deal with whatever base I might need to bring in? In my amateur experience pouring the concrete is the easiest part. It's the prep that can get costly...

Thanks again!

Water and road sludge from the garage will drain better if the apron is 1/4" to 1/2" lower than the front edge of the floor.

[Down Deep]

No matter what you do, although it may be minimal, there will still be some shifting of the slab. By pouring it a bit lower you hedge against an edge that will make moving water or sweepings out of the garage.