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Recovery Rope/strap Tips/Advice


MidCoast

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I am quite new to rescuing vehicles out on the lakes who are stuck in snow, but I want to help out if I encounter somebody who may need assistance. I have been looking at Bubba Kinetic Rescue Rope, ASR Off Road Kinetic Rope, and ARB Recovery Strap. Any recommendations/experience with these or others out there?

Also, do I need to purchase any shackle or receiver to go with it or anything else? I have a 2010 Tundra 4x4 with two recovery points in the front and just the trailer hitch in the rear of my truck.

Thanks.

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When pulling from the rear I have a shackle loop that mounts into the receiver, it has a large threaded bolt/pin assy that allows me to attache the strap through in a number of ways.

When pulling from the front I have dual tow/pull points coming off the frame.

If I ever help anyone else I supervise but make them attach it to their vehicle, also I will only offer to help pull our someone who has a vehicle that has proper tow loops/points.

I tried to be a nice guy and help a gal out of a ditch once, in the end her suspension broke and tore part of her bumper up.

I believe her suspension was damaged before pulling, but none the less she wanted to get a lawyer involved to have me pay for the damages.

I didn't pay for anything in the end, but now I wont pull a car ever, unless I own it.

Similar reason why I dont want to give people a jump start, try to be a nice guy and someone wants to sue you.

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Also- it's good practice to take and old winter jacket (blanket,anythying) and tie the sleeves around the jerk strap in the middle. If one of the ends (no matter what is on the end) does give way it will absorb much of the snap back and could save your windshield or you life if there is a hook on the end.

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Ditto on the jacket/blanket the heavier the better laid in the middle of the strap should use it even when using a cable from a winch such as on the atv for same safety concern, the weight causes it the go to the ground as it recoils, also ditto on the owner of towed vehicle attach the end of the strap themselves as very few vehicles today have a designated tow hook location especially on the front. I would also get one as long as you can afford have seen too many drivers of the pulled vehicle once start to get traction give it and keep coming and actually run into the pulling vehicle before they realize that that vehicle is slowing.

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I have 5 different tow straps. I just got a big heavy duty one at Radco for I think $30. Best strap I have. Super long, can be doubled up if needed, and has nice big loops at the end that are super reinforced. I highly suggest this tow strap at that price. Call your local Radco and see if they have them. I know the Duluth store has a bunch still.

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Get a good 3 or 4 inch strap, clevises that are bigger than you think you need so you can wrap them around and get the strap on, and NEVER use it without a jacket or something draped over it if it snaps. My guess is a good 4 inch or 3 inch strap will be $50-$75 plus. Don't buy cheap straps. The reason for the strap over the rope is so you can get a run and snap the other vehicle. A strap stretches and snaps back like a rubber band where most ropes are simply that-a rope.

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Good advice on the jacket / blanket Idea. I was always worried about that happening, and that would take care of it. Also on the bigger clevice than needed. I have a long (3") and a really long (4" wide) strap and the 4" is what I will get when I need another. Nice with that extra length.

If you ever loop two together, to make it longer, don't just use the straps loops, cause when you put that much pressure on it they will about weld together wink and you will need hammer and prybar to loosen them. A clevice or dogbone type thing is better.

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Cripes - I towed 3 people out using my thin strap with hooks. D'oh! Time to get a new strap. The Seirra I pulled out had a nice strap to use. It worked slick. (I also have new General Grabber AT2 which I think was the only reason I didn't get stuck)

I do say I'm not responsible for any damage and they can find a place to hook the strap, unless it's a lady wearing a dress with a child in the back seat, then I'll go and hook it up.

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I have a 50' cargo strap. Its like 4" wide and an inch thick. I think its rated for over 50,000 pounds. There is no way I'm breaking it. Nothing wrong with attaching to a regular ball if your only pulling people out once or twice a year. If you get serious into off-roading, just get a hook for your receiver. To be honest, pulling people out is the absolute last resort on a lake. Traction is almost zero as it is, and you have to put yourself in a bad situation to get others out. I've seen guys get stuck trying to pull someone out, and a third person also get stuck. The best option is to get out and help shovel. Get it reasonably clear under the vehicle, clear a few feet from the tires, help push, and the driver should not let off the throttle at all until they are in the clear.

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I'm with Scott. Try pulling slow and then up the amount of pulling you need by little amounts.

Where have you guys seen a ball hitch break when being used? I've never seen that personally. I have seen chains break or a strap break, but never the actual ball with just 1/2 ton trucks. These are in receiver hitches and not just bumper mounted balls. Heck I got a rusted in receiver hitch in one old truck that would take an act of god to rip out without the pin in. grin

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There is a big difference in balls some have a 1/2" shank and others have a 7/8" shank. I always use the 7/8 shank no matter if it a 1 7/8", 2" or a 2 5/16" ball. We broke a ball off trying to pull a 2.5 ton truck, the ball almost went though the ac coil on the big truck. That's when switched to the bigger shank balls

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I have pulled many vehicles out on and off the lake. If they are in the road ditch - I will stop and make sure all are ok. Sometimes if it's not too bad I will pull them out claiming no responsibility, otherwise make sure they can get a tow truck. I have regular recovery hooks on a heavy strap like a wrecker uses - then a heavy looped 30' recovery strap which attaches either front or rear to factory tow hooks on my truck.

On the lake I will do the same, but normally will need a gentle pull to get most free due to traction issues. I have a Warn winch for the truck, but I take it off in the winter to put the Boss V plow on.

I rarely use chain, always carry sand, a small moving blanket, high lift jack, shovels, and a couple heavy aluminum 6' straight ramps.

Seen too many windshields and some injuries to others when doing the jerk me out thing.

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A couple years ago I had my 1 ton hung up by the axels on a WMA road, guy had a 6" strap, tried the jerk a couple of times about 10 yds. I've had a lot of experience(fun) doing this sort of thing. I asked him if he'd ever seen the true potential of these straps, he looked at me funny and ??? I told him to back up to 10ft away from mine, floor it, and lay down in seat before it hit. I did the same until launch was over. My son said he'd never seen a 6" strap go to 2" that quickly. THAT is why you need solid hooking points(clevises) to do the really tough pulls.

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Heat Checker is right on, they're made to jerk hard. I don't think I've ever seen a 6 footer though. You can hit a 4 inch x 20ft strap as hard as you can and the boomerang effect is remarkable. Our 4 wheel drive club used them all the time, even in the deepest stickiest mud and swamps. Great fun.

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