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Dooley87

NanoFil keeps breaking

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Nanofil = garbage in my experience. Beware the testimonials of pro staffers.

2c

I have to agree. Fireline is a great line. I thought Nanofil would be similar to Fireline, just in lighter test and with less fraying. Couldn't have been more wrong. It's the only "superline" I've ever used that I would consider inferior to mono in terms of use strength.

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It is funny to read all of these replies and how easily some of the issues you are experiencing can be fixed so the experience of using the best line for spinning rods can be completely reversed. First off, I am not sponsored by anyone or anything. I use all types of lines on all types of rods etc, and Nano-fil is what I have spooled on all of my NRX spinning rods, 12 lb in white. I use a flouro leader about 3 ft long on both, and it is a stellar combo, I will outcast anyone and pull sticks of great size back to the boat if I snag one.

Issue #1- "my knot breaks too easily"- Fix= tie the knot that it says to on the packaging of the $20 line you just bought, wow, if you listen to the manufacturer it actually works, imagine that.

This is a specialty line, designed for zero stretch, and the least amount of coil memory for the most casting distance of any line out there.

(now I would not recommend using it tied directly to the lure, but if you do, get the green in 14 or 17lb, seems to work much better, my 10 yr old son prefers this and never breaks off, catches several 3 lb and over bass without any issues).

Issue #2- tying a flouro leader and having the line not hold, slip, the knots don't work properly etc.- Fix = tie a double uni knot with 10-12 wraps with the nanofil like anyone recommends when tying this knot with such a smooth and small diameter line. Same as you would with any other superline like braid, etc.

Fireline, spiderwire and the like will also work just fine when tying a flouro leader, and like anything it's a personal preference, to each their own, but this line works just fine, incredibly actually if you just take a couple of extra measures to ensure you are using it the way it is intended. If you do these 2 things you won't have issues.

I fish this set-ups in bass tournaments and when fishing casually, don't change it up for either.. and I have the same nanofil on as last year, just cut off the end 10 feet and boom, ready to go.

hope this helps someone out.

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Issue #1- "my knot breaks too easily"- Fix= tie the knot that it says to on the packaging of the $20 line you just bought, wow, if you listen to the manufacturer it actually works, imagine that.

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It is funny to read all of these replies and how easily some of the issues you are experiencing can be fixed so the experience of using the best line for spinning rods can be completely reversed. First off, I am not sponsored by anyone or anything. I use all types of lines on all types of rods etc, and Nano-fil is what I have spooled on all of my NRX spinning rods, 12 lb in white. I use a flouro leader about 3 ft long on both, and it is a stellar combo, I will outcast anyone and pull sticks of great size back to the boat if I snag one.

Issue #1- "my knot breaks too easily"- Fix= tie the knot that it says to on the packaging of the $20 line you just bought, wow, if you listen to the manufacturer it actually works, imagine that.

This is a specialty line, designed for zero stretch, and the least amount of coil memory for the most casting distance of any line out there.

(now I would not recommend using it tied directly to the lure, but if you do, get the green in 14 or 17lb, seems to work much better, my 10 yr old son prefers this and never breaks off, catches several 3 lb and over bass without any issues).

Issue #2- tying a flouro leader and having the line not hold, slip, the knots don't work properly etc.- Fix = tie a double uni knot with 10-12 wraps with the nanofil like anyone recommends when tying this knot with such a smooth and small diameter line. Same as you would with any other superline like braid, etc.

Fireline, spiderwire and the like will also work just fine when tying a flouro leader, and like anything it's a personal preference, to each their own, but this line works just fine, incredibly actually if you just take a couple of extra measures to ensure you are using it the way it is intended. If you do these 2 things you won't have issues.

I fish this set-ups in bass tournaments and when fishing casually, don't change it up for either.. and I have the same nanofil on as last year, just cut off the end 10 feet and boom, ready to go.

So...you didn't follow through on attending that Dale Carnegie course I take it?

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Power Pro Super Slick is another good option on spinning rods. I use it with a

flouro leader on my jerkbait rods. It casts farther than regular braid. No doubt about it. I have not had line breakage issues so far but just started using it late last summer.

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So...you didn't follow through on attending that Dale Carnegie course I take it?

I'm a young pup still so I had to google Dale Carnegie so when I came across his wiki page and his book How to Win Friends and Influence People I almost fell over laughing laughgrinwink

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I'm back to straight Trilene XL on 75% of my rods now and am catching more fish with less frustration.

+1

Up to about 10lbs I stick with mono. I got on the firewire and whatnot craze for a while but eventually went back to the tried and true. I have recently started using stuff like p-line copolymer recently though and find it superior to regular mono.

I agree that there are advantages to fancy lines like sensitivity and whatever else, but I'm not sure how much any of that actually affects the bottom line, fish in the boat.

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You didn't say you were using spinning gear. Don't use NanoFil on a bait caster.

I have had no problems with it. I use it for throwing light stuff, up to 1/4 oz. On a 6.5 foot light rod and on a 7 ft ML rod. Both have soft tips.

No problems here and on my second year. Great stuff for throwing the small stuff a mile.

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I spooled up two different reels with 8lb NF at the start of last season. Went up to Mille Lacs and caught probably three dozen pike, with half a dozen over 36", throwin big spoons all weekend. Fantastic right? Two months later I'm up in Canada on a fly-in, and I had more break-offs than any other fishing trip in my life. I couldn't even try to pop the jigs off snags, the line would just snap. Wound up switching to backup spools of 6/8lb XL because that was far stronger. Haven't touched the stuff since. Seems like people either love or hate the stuff, not consistent enough for me.

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I had the same problem with nano-fill I would use it to tie all my spinnerrigs up and one hookset and snap off or get one little snag and go to pop it lose and everything would be gone, upset with the line I wrote a letter and sent it back to the company they sent me to 2 new spools and it must just been a bad spooll because I've had a problem it.

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One thing you will need to remember is, a nick that makes it 1/8remembere way through mono will be 100% through NanoFil.

Mono is like a bungie cord compared to the super lines like NanoFil. Simple Physics will tell you if you put a weight on the line and give it a snap of the rod, something has got to give (inertia). If you have a stiff rod like you would use with mono, will then it would be the line. Then you would be better off with a braided superline like Powerpro. Oh yea, if you watch the pro bass tournaments and you emulate the start the hook set in the front of the boat and finish it in the back of the boat, yes stay old school mono by allll means.

Lighten your drag, use a rod with a soft tip, use a leader and remember your not using mono, this stuff will not stretch!!!!!

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One thing you will need to remember is, a nick that makes it 1/8remembere way through mono will be 100% through NanoFil.

Mono is like a bungie cord compared to the super lines like NanoFil. Simple Physics will tell you if you put a weight on the line and give it a snap of the rod, something has got to give (inertia). If you have a stiff rod like you would use with mono, will then it would be the line. Then you would be better off with a braided superline like Powerpro. Oh yea, if you watch the pro bass tournaments and you emulate the start the hook set in the front of the boat and finish it in the back of the boat, yes stay old school mono by allll means.

Lighten your drag, use a rod with a soft tip, use a leader and remember your not using mono, this stuff will not stretch!!!!!

Both the "nick" theory and the "no stretch" theory apply to braids just the same as nanofil. I don't hear these complaints about 832.

I wonder if they could have a manufacturing consistency problem.

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Braids have multiple strands, hence braid. Nanofil is a single line. I would say thats the biggest difference in potential strength if knicked. Usually braid may only loose 1 or 2 strands, and the others maintain significant strength. Knicked nanofill is like when you accidentally rip a bag of chips open and it starts going down the side. Theres no stopping it!

I've experienced the same problems with nanofil randomly snapping. Its the only line I've ever had the problem with. I still use it on 1 panfish rod, but I also keep that drag extremely loose and treat it as if it was 4lb line essentially. The 8lb is nice for sensitivity and casting distance, but I don't think you can treat it like most other 8lb lines while fishing it.

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Its considered a "unifilament" or "Unified filament" by Berkley. Based on their description it definitely seems to be a singular line much like monofilament, but its made out of some new compound called Dyneema which is supposed to be much stronger, yet thinner.

Hope that answers yours question.

It certainly is nothing like a braid in that respect anyways, other than the fact that it is also no-stretch essentially.

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Dyneema is the gel spun stuff they make into braid, or fuse to make fireline.

wikipedia to rescue.

Quote:
Dyneema and Spectra are lightweight high-strength oriented-strand gel spun through a spinneret. They have yield strengths as high as 2.4 GPa (350,000 psi) and specific gravity as low as 0.97 (for Dyneema SK75).[9] High-strength steels have comparable yield strengths, and low-carbon steels have yield strengths much lower (around 0.5 GPa). Since steel has a specific gravity of roughly 7.8, this gives strength-to-weight ratios for these materials in a range from 8 to 15 times higher than steel. Strength-to-weight ratios for Dyneema are about 40% higher than for aramid. Dyneema was invented by Albert Pennings in 1963 but made commercially available by DSM in 1990.[10]

...

UHMWPE is processed variously by compression molding, ram extrusion, gel spinning, and sintering. Several European companies began compression molding UHMW in the early 1960s. Gel-spinning arrived much later and was intended for different applications.

In gel spinning a precisely heated gel of UHMWPE is extruded through a spinneret. The extrudate is drawn through the air and then cooled in a water bath. The end-result is a fiber with a high degree of molecular orientation, and therefore exceptional tensile strength. Gel spinning depends on isolating individual chain molecules in the solvent so that intermolecular entanglements are minimal. Entanglements make chain orientation more difficult, and lower the strength of the final product.

...

The weak bonding between olefin molecules allows local thermal excitations to disrupt the crystalline order of a given chain piece-by-piece, giving it much poorer heat resistance than other high-strength fibers. Its melting point is around 130 to 136 °C (266 to 277 °F),[6] and, according to DSM, it is not advisable to use UHMWPE fibers at temperatures exceeding 80 to 100 °C (176 to 212 °F) for long periods of time.

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After looking at and feeling the Nanofil, it looks like they extrude fine strands to attempt to get the molecules to align in the way necessary to get the strength and then extrude a bundle of those like mono is extruded.

It probably works great if the process is properly controlled, but perhaps something gets a little out of spec at the factory sometimes. I suppose the patent would tell the story.

Anybody got a box with the patent or patents listed?

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I have used nanofil a few times and was actually pretty happy with it until I read this. It is quite weak, but I figured that's a sacrifice you make for the castability and small diameter. That being said, I haven't tried 832… I may be missing out.

Also, I'm fairly sure nanofil is a weave of multiple fibers, based on the way it frays after becoming worn.

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I like 6# Suffix 832 for jigging and 10# for long lining cranks. I will at times use 20# for heavy bottom bouncers like 2-4 oz.

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832 is too limp for my taste in line for spinning reels but good line for casting reels. 6lb PE line with a little "body" offers fewer tip wraps. NanoFil has worked well for me when I use it on a rod that has an action light enough to protect the line from its lower shock strength. Leaving a longer tag end with my knots has helped eliminate knot failure due to slipping.

oe

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You're going to check patents to see why the quality control is bad? The stuff is just plain junk, I don't think it has anything to do with controls. eek

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Quote:
Both the "nick" theory and the "no stretch" theory apply to braids just the same as nanofil. I don't hear these complaints about 832.

T be blunt. No you are wrong and since you don't back up what you are saying I don't feel I should.

Quote:
I wonder if they could have a manufacturing consistency problem.

I wonder why people don't keep there thoughts to themselves?

Braid do have limited give. It is in the design. The outside squeezes the inside. As the outside squeezes the inside you have give.

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You're going to check patents to see why the quality control is bad? The stuff is just plain junk, I don't think it has anything to do with controls. eek

Uh, no. I was going to check patents to see if my theory about how it is made is correct.

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