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Arrow diameters?

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Im sure I could do a google search, but whats the big differences in the arrow shaft diameters? I like the thicker arrows better but is that any kind of disadvantage?

What do you guys use? Do you really find the $$$ arrows with higher tolerances are "noticably" more accurate when you get out there a ways?

Just curious... same weight, same diameter... is it worth double the price or are you paying for the fancy camo?

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I buy the cheapest arrows I can find and they shoot great. If I was an olympic archer I might do something different.

I am pretty confident I could make my own arrows out of wood and stone and do just fine too.

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How accurate do you want to be to begin with? If you want to shoot a 50x 300 round you are going to notice arrow tolerances and differences even in the same type of high quality arrows. If you are happy putting them on a pie plate then I wouldn't get to worked up about it. The difference between arrow diameters in my opinion are:

Big shafts are easier to tune through non-drop away rests

Small shafts penetrate better through game and targets due to less friction

Big shafts tend (not always) to weigh more and produce more kinetic energy because of it

Small shafts limit the helical you can put on your vanes due to lack of real estate

Small shaft weigh less and produce faster speeds

I think the speed aspect is what is driving the small shafts. For some reason the American sportsman thinks faster is better. I'd rather hit what I'm aiming at, but what do I know...I've only been an archery nut for 30 years.

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Many of the new small diameter shafts such as Victory VAP's & Easton Injexion's are actually pretty heavy (9-10 gpi range.) Less wind drift, increased kinetic energy, greater penetration are the keypoints.

I've shot a lot of shafts over the years and haven't really noticed a major difference between a 1/1000th or 6/1000th straightness tolerance. I don't shoot paper or 60+ yds on a regular basis either. For most hunting situations, pretty much any arrow on the market will get the job done if you have your setup properly tuned/spined.

I agree w/ CP as many seek out a light arrow just so they can shoot fast through a chronograph. A lot of unneccesary hype with speed imo. I prefer a heavy quiet arrow and don't care how fast it moves!

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Speed does not equal less accurate. It doesn't equal more accurate either.

There are arguments on both sides. Large diameter arrows are also more affected by wind. That may not be a big deal at less than 20yds.

You have to consider how you use your bow. If your hunting is at 20yds or less. Any arrow will do for you. Find one that gives you the results you're looking for.

If you'd like to hunt longer distances, do target hunting, or get certain results with your setup, then you may have to do some research to find the right arrow for you. The differences are noticeable if you use your bow in ways where it matters. Like someone said above, if hitting a paper plate is good enough for you, then it doesn't matter. If you actually like hitting the bullseye because of more than blind luck, then a quality arrow may be worth the money.

Finally, I've said in other posts that I think its funny how much money people spend on a bow and all the accessories only to balk at how much it costs for the one piece that actually decides where your broadhead will hit. Proper weight and spine may cost more and durability matters too. You may not need carbon aluminum hybrid or kevlar weave arrows, but a mid grade arrow might be worth the money.

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If you actually like hitting the bullseye because of more than blind luck, then a quality arrow may be worth the money.

Finally, I've said in other posts that I think its funny how much money people spend on a bow and all the accessories only to balk at how much it costs for the one piece that actually decides where your broadhead will hit.

I will respectfully disagree with with this, I can hit the bullseye fine with cheap arrows and I am sure plenty of other people do to. A tuned bow with proper form and practice is far more important that .03 to .006 straitness. Its not like my cheap arrows are blowing up in mid air or breaking up when they hit a deer. They are plenty durrable and accurate.

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Im a fine shooter at 30 yards and less... but I think at 40 yards plus, when im shooting the "paper plate" area, 9 out of 10 times its ME thats the problem and not the arrow??? Maybe im wrong....

My old Hoyt, I was pretty decent out to 70 yards and that was with the cheap Goldtip arrows with a thicker shaft. Now im thinking I should stay with those???

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I think you have the right idea slim, I am deadly 40 and in and past that I can still shoot well but not as consistant. I doubt its my arrows but more of flaws in my form and lack of practice at those distances.

I'm not sure a lot of people can image how small a difference of .003 of an inch is. My .006 arrows are already super incredibly strait. The expensive arrows just a tiny fraction of a fraction straiter and like I said above unless you are an olympic or world class shooter it doesn't make a difference. A lot of it I think comes down to marketing, sometimes extra money buys you quality, sometimes not. I shoot cheap arrows and super cheap 6-packs of muzzys and never had a single issue with them.

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I'm sorry if you took offense Bear. It was not intended that way.

Everyone has different expectations for themselves and how they shoot. Those who strive to be as accurate and precise at 60yds as they are at 20 can and will notice a difference with different arrows. Thats all I was trying to say.

There is someone on here that I know and respect that sights in once in the fall to hit the paper plate and that is fine for them. I don't judge him. He's taken some fine deer. I like to practice and shoot for more than that. My 60yd group is 6" or less (still better than a paper plate) and I'd like to improve it. I'm not a target archer, but I would like to get into 3d.

If people are only interested in shooting a couple arrows a year at 20yds or less than any arrow will do. Slim asked if there was a difference in the arrows and there is if you use them in a way that the difference will be noticed. That is all I was trying to say.

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No offence take PS, just stating my case for cheap arrows and their quality. With a lot of products these days there is a fine line between paying for quality and just getting ripped off. I've bought quality arrows before, they shot no better than the ones I use now. If someone was bigtime into tournament archery they might see a difference. Shooting 40 yards and in I don't, maybe others do, up to us to decide.

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All great points.

I have been shooting less than the best(IMO)and have harvested deer, but I am stepping up this year to a better arrow and in fact going heavier.

I am firing bullets out there to 40 yards, but I do quite a bit of shooting out to extreme ranges for me (100 yards) and that is where the difference lies, more wobble and lack of quick response to straighten the arrow flight.

Also with a heavier shaft like pointed out earlier there is less wind drift and the Kenetic Energy is carried too.

I do shoot a Expandable Broadhead and with only 26.5" of draw and 70lbs of pull I want to keep the force going through the animal I want to harvest.

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Number each of your arrows. Shoot them all and keep track of any strays. If you find any that seem to stray more often, try turning the nock a 1/4 turn at a time if your fletching allows, until you can get it to group with the rest. If not, it's a practice only arrow.

I've shot .005 and .001 tolerance arrows and out of each I've always found a stray here or there. If you weed out the strays the remaining .005 tolerance arrows can be just as accurate as the .001's in my experience. After that the shooter's ability and bow tuning takes over. It's not the arrow anymore.

More to think about. From my experience, I feel that a helical fletch arrow has consistently shot the best for me over varying conditions. Wind, rain, snow, (all practice with broadheads). Straight or offset fletching is not bad, but I think when conditions change the helical fletch stays the most consistent.

Just some things to think about based on my personal experiences. I'm no pro either, just a hunter/3D shooter.


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