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Sears table saw model 113.298-050


Tom7227

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I was given one and the motor may be shot. Sears just told me that they don't sell it in their on-line parts department. I haven't spent any more time checking but I wonder where I could get one, or if they are pretty standard motors that could be obtained anyplace.

Thanks for your time.

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Tom if you really want the saw to get up and working,Take the motor to a rebuild shop,A auto generater,starter,altenator shop.They can rebuild most any elec motor.Or you can get a new motor just match the amps or larger and rpms.Personally I'd get it rebuilt.Last one I had done was 35 bucks in a small town shop.That way everything bolts right up No improvising.

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If the motor is shot it may be able to be rebuilt, as stated. Lots of places can rebuild these smaller motors for cheaper than buying new.

Now I'm curious, why are you thinking the motor is shot? Is it not working at all or just weak? If it's getting voltage and not doing anything it could be just a switch, or a capaciter if it's a cap start motor.

Or the motor could be shot. grin

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Now I'm curious, why are you thinking the motor is shot?

My brother was cutting some 3/4 ply into strips and it kept binding on him. His kids told him that there was smoke coming from the motor and then it stopped. I plugged it in and it sounded like a coffee grinder with a flat wheel. I have looked up rebuild shops and found two close by and will give one of them a shot at it early next week. Of course there's now about 75 pieces sitting in the garage from taking the motor out so even if i get the motor fixed there's no guarantee that it will live to cut again. Forgot to take pictures as I took stuff apart,

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Taking motor out should have been pretty simple and getting it back should be same. I don't know where you'd get all those pieces! Ha Ha! Bogging down a motor like that will fry it every time. Surprised you didn't trip a breaker too.

Of course I could be snide and say there is a right way and a wrong way to use a table saw.....And of course there is a safe way and many not-so-safe ways to used them.

For example: a totally unsafe way is to cut some cupped wet wood that at first binds the blade and then produces KICK BACK.....which can seriously ruin your day. Look it up. Read about it. Stay safe.

And good luck getting all those pieces back together! Ha Ha!

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Taking motor out should have been pretty simple and getting it back should be same. I don't know where you'd get all those pieces! Ha Ha! Bogging down a motor like that will fry it every time. Surprised you didn't trip a breaker too.

Of course I could be snide and say there is a right way and a wrong way to use a table saw.....And of course there is a safe way and many not-so-safe ways to used them.

For example: a totally unsafe way is to cut some cupped wet wood that at first binds the blade and then produces KICK BACK.....which can seriously ruin your day. Look it up. Read about it. Stay safe.

And good luck getting all those pieces back together! Ha Ha!

There's a answer to that it's the correct blade with a correct kerf.Pretty simple.
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I don't want anybody getting in trouble here. The "correct blade with the correct kerf (whatever that is) can still produce binding and that will still produce kick-back. And kick-back is dangerous.

The "correct kerf" can be the proper thickness of blade with the correct thickness of insert. Does not matter when it comes to kick-back....they will all do it. I prefer Zero Clearence with thin kerf blade.....but I do not do a lot of heavy cutting. Most folks can use the standard blades and the clearence plate that came with the saw.

Table saws are inherently dangerous. Be careful.

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I have to correct a prior post. I plugged the motor in again last night. It rotated very slowly for about 2 seconds and then the breaker blew. I think the motor is repairable and will find out sometime this week when I find a shop to give it a go.

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