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bow , shotgun or rifle for bear?


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So I'm torn on what to use if I get drawn this year for bear hunting.... I shot one last year with my rifle and while I liked how it rolled it and it didn't move from its track, I don't like using scope so close. I have a new bow and really would like to use it but don't want to have to track a bear far. I am comfortable with shooting it and have shot a dozen deer over the years with bows but just not sure a bear... Would like to hear some pro/cons stories etc on the subject. I also have a nice rifle 12 ga I wouldn't mind using with a red dot on it I baught just for this...

Thanks appreciate any and all insight on the subject, also I would imagine same broadheads/arrows etc would work from deer to bear?

Thanks

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I've been on 3 bear hunts and taken a bear twice. Each time I planned the hunt there was no question what the weapon would be....my bow. But I think it's different for everyone. The tracking jobs weren't bad...less than 100 yards on both, but I did take along a slug gun for the tracking job just in case. If you are competent with your bow and know the correct shot placement it's a very rewarding hunt. Good luck.

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I'd go with the bow. I shot my first bear with a 12 gauage (which would be my second choice for you) just because I'd never done it before. The hardest part of bear hunting is being there when the bear is there. After that...lets be honest, the bear is sitting on a pile of bait within 30 yards of you, no need for fancy guns or optics. For me, it's now more of a sport and challenge with a bow, getting into position, drawing,holding....holding, and waiting for the perfect shot and connecting. You mentioned you didn't like tracking to far. Yes-with a bow that can happen. But, at least for me, tracking is just as, if not even more fun then hunting. If I hear someone wounded an animal, I'm usually the first to head up the search, if I know them or not. I can be really rewarding finding that one tiny drop of blood under a leaf at night which draws you to the animal...espicially at night, searching for a bear...with a bow in your hand...and nothing more then a coleman lantern that shines 5 feet... then seeing a beer face under your boot! (p.s. pistols can be used injunction with bow hunting for bear "IF" that is a concern to you)!

Hints, Practice practice practice. Buy a bear target with vitals (cheap paper works great) and learn were to shot. Try it from an elevated stand as well. I like the retractable blades when hunting bear but good bone breaking broadheads work great too!

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Thanks good info, I plan on carrying my pistal too (454 Alaskan ) but only to track , its very short barrel and probably couldn't hit dam think if not 20' away smile . I have both retractables and fixed blades but probably use the fixed being only 25 yds away. I have had even high end retractables not open for me. I like tracking too, but most likely it will be close to dark and ill be alone and dragging it would suck if its too far, can't get wheeler in the thick stuff. That's my concern but would think with good shot should stay close? Do they pass through like on deer? Do get solid blood trails, I have heard not typically due to amounts of fat to close wounds, mine last year bleed a ton but blew good size hole through vitals, I tracked buddys one year and very little blood...

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This is a bad picture but maybe it can help with shot placement. The red oblong dot is the Heart an abouve that the lungs, an you can make out the leg bone an sholder blade creating a V pocket to shoot for. I took my first bear with the same concerns, but wouldnt have it any other way. Mine bled out 20-30 yards away from a NAP spitfire. but today i would use some other new ones out there like the rage, Ive heard good things about. I would also use a medium to heavy shaft to plow thru instead of zip thru. full-2178-19479-041512141001.jpg

This year Im doing it with a crossbow, cant wait!

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After years of guiding bear hunters I will say it this way.

If you want to make sure to harvest a bear, minimize tracking, have a good clean kill, carry a weapon that can withstand bumps and bruises. Carry the .12 gauge slug gun. Very seldom do I have to track a bear or hear stories of how the shot got screwed up with a .12 gauge. The slug makes dead bear no doubt about it. Hunters running slugs or muzzle loaders often drop the bear right on the bait pile.

Now if you want the challenge of archery and you feel VERY comfortable and efficient with your bow bring the bow. Through the years my archery hunter success is down compared to the firearms guys hunting right alongside. I hear a few things over and over. “I couldn’t pinpoint the kill zone, it was all black”, ‘The bear jumped the arrow” (and yes even the fasted bows are slower than a bears reaction), “The bear seen me draw” and number one problem is arrows deflecting off of bones or blades not working correctly. Archery hunters have to accept lower success rates and tough odds when archery hunting bear. That’s just archery hunting, it's susposed to be tougher.

I think back to all of the tracking jobs where the sun came up before we found the bear and most was a bow. A couple where guys with poorly placed pistol shots and a few with rifles that just didn’t do the job but seldom do bear walk away form 250+ grains of lead whacking them.

As for shot placement I like this chart.

full-10775-19509-hunting_equipment_05270

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A couple years ago I drew a tag in Wisconsin (after 8 years of applying). The thought crossed my mind of keeping it simple and using a firearm, but I had always dreamt of taking one with a bow.

After a lot of research about shot placement, I was up for the challenge. I read an article somewhere online about shooting a bear while lying down in the bait. I forget where or who wrote it, but it made a lot of sense.

The man who wrote the article said if you can wait until the bear lays down on the bait and is reaching forward for a scoop, that it is the best possible shot to take with a bow. This position moves all of the heavy leg bone away from the lungs, and greatly increases your odds of a pass-through.

After eight years of waiting to send an arrow, I had to let the bear eat the bait for about 10 minutes before he presented this shot. It felt like 10 hours!! But when he did, a Muzzy zipped right through the boiler room smile

He went roughly 75 yards and died within minutes. It was the BIGGEST RUSH OF MY LIFE!!!! The only thing I enjoyed more than the hunt were the dozens of meals and tons of jerky he provided wink I'll eat any critter in the woods, but bear is on the top of the list.

I hope this helps you out some!!

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Yea jay ive said this before, I cut my first bow kill an my first bear with stick an string, an dont think i could top the rush, put all those concerns aside an an kill a bear dude! When your so jacked up on a drenaline the drag dont seem like much.As much preperation an research you do in hunting, all your efforts will come together in the end. Whichever you choose good luck this year.

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Ive gotten a couple, all with a bow. Both times went less than 50 yards so they dont go far when hit good. Now im not sure if bears do the death moan with gunshot wounds but both of my kills did that. If there is a slight chance of hearing that with a bowkill, then thats what i would carry. It will send shivers up your spine when it happens.

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I'd go with the bow and bring a gun for back-up incase the bear doesnt present a shot with bow. My first bear I had to use my .44mag instead of my bow as it never presented as shot for bow. My friend last year had a 450lber that sat 60yrds from the bait and was waiting him out,thankfully he was using a rifle or he never would have gotten a shot at it.

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I would not hesatate with using a bow. Shot angles are everything. I would look into a cut on contact head, Shoot a heavy arrow. Practice in very low light. Look into a sight pin light- preferalbly one that can be turned way down to barley illuminate the pin. Use a large peep to let all the light in that you can.

Stand setup is critical- and I am far from a expert. I have read and reasearched this on my own for my hunts. Don't get too high in a tree. 12 feet up with a 15 yard shot will get you under the shoulder blade, Wait for the front leg to move forward - It opens up the vitals and takes the shoulder blade out of play.

A quartering away shot - entering the last few ribs and exiting in the front shoulder opposite side is a good shot. If you hit bone on the exit you will not get complete pass thru shots. But you will have dead bear.

Lighted knocks help with visually showing you the point of impact.

I would do some more research and practice. Make sure that your equipment is quiet and tuned.

Do not shoot a Bear in the shoulder blade ever.

Good Luck

Steve

p.s Jonny P. Please correct me on anything that I am off base with.

Also after the shot listen very carefully to the exit the bear takes. Take a compass bearing fgrom your stand to the last place you heard the bear. Make any notes of landmarks you can see if any- again take a compas reading to that landmark. It will be pitch black probably when you go to recover your bear.

go deep in the woods on a pitch black night and walk in little circles with your head down for a bit. Then find your way out. GPS may be good to have when recovering your bear. It may go down 30 yards off your trail and finding the trail may be difficult.

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I'd use a bow if you are proficient and confident in your abilities. A large fixed blade head is what I recommend. Bear have a lot of fat and loose skin which will plug up a hole plus the long shaggy hair works like a sponge to soak up the blood so even the best shot may have a poor blood trail. I like to use the GriztrickII for a four blade 1-1/4 hole.

Once a bear comes into the bait let them settle in and start eating it might take a while but once they relaxed your chance of getting caught drawing or them moving during the shot decrease greatly,it also give you a chance to calm your nerves enough to pic the right spot.

The best shot angle is a bear slightly quartering away with it's leg that's closest to you forward that will open up the vitals and allow you to take out both lung and maybe the heart. The others were also right on about the stand height the higher you are the better chance you have of taking only one lung really increases. I go with the bait at 15 yards and the stand 15 feet or lower.

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Good stuff guys, lots of good points to remember since i too will be doing the bow thing but on the horizontal mombo level. Being so close than a rifle shot do not under estimate the eyesite, being a preditor they have eyesite as good as ours. They depend on their nose so much they rarely let their eyes take over, which has given the wives tale impression of poor eyesite. Good luck boys! this early spring give false hopes thats its june an so much close to baiting. AAAUUUGHH!

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I have a 30-06 with 180 grain. Would I be better off with a 220 grain or 250 grain (someone mentioned the 250 grain earlier)? My stand is about 30 yards from the bait and I did get a shot a few years ago but did not take my time and didn't get a good hit. I should have known better and have learned from my mistake. This year is the year for me (if i get drawn) and I want to do everything right. Of course, I would rather knock the bear down on the pile or just a short distance rather than having to track 100 yards or so at night. Also, anyone know where I could purchase the higher grain shells? Thanks

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Look on a ballistic table at some point heavier isn't always more energy because of the loss of velocity. I would guess at the close distance the 250 grain would be best but I would look up the energy for them anyway. Also type of bullet is important somthing that retains its weight and gives good penetration while expanding is best. I used 200 gr noslar partition for mine last year did great, big hole and passed through bone also.

Good luck...

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Bullet/Sabot selection is KEY! I have seen 7mm Mags, 300 Win Mags and even the 8mm Mouser all blow apart with very little penetration due to poor bullet retention. I have also seen a certain Muzzloader sabot fail numerous times over; not naming names but there is very little power or belt to that hunk of lead.

Read the reviews and look for a bullet or sabot that retains lead and tends to have great weight retention. Some of the good ones I have used or seen through the years is the Thomspon Center Shockwave for muzzleloaders, great retention and nice mushroom. The Nosler Partition, Trophy Bonded Bear Claw and the Hornandy Interlock for the high powers have worked well.

You can shoot a wicked mean gun but it don’t mean nuthin if ya cant get the high speed bullet through the fat and hide in one piece.

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I have used all of the mentioned weapons on bear and harvested one with each.

Proper bullet selection and arrow weight and broadhead and they will all do the job.

Make sure you are very confident with whatever weapon and practice. Know on the bear where the kill zone is and do not take the low percentage shot.

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