Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

Heavy duty leader for small crankbaits?


fishinfey8

Recommended Posts

I like casting small cranks every spring for shallow post-spawn walleyes. Sometimes I'm using very small cranks in order to match the minnow hatches, but a constant problem of mine is getting bit off by pike. I have tried various wire-leaders ranging from all different sizes, but I can't find one that works well with those tiny rapalas. I also think if I'm fishing clear water the hardware sometimes deters the fish. Seems to me that those small rapalas are a bit more fussy when it comes to tuning them up, and I find that even snap swivels sometimes cause it to run funky...what are you guys doing in this type of situation?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I haven't found a good solution. I just get bit off like you do. Sometimes, I will use a 2nd rod with a leader and a daredevil and sweep the area with a cast or two first. I have found that using powerpro or fireline without a leader kind of splits the difference- a few less bite offs and the raps still run for me. it certainly isn't a perfect solution.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have you tried tiable wire? American Fishing Wire makes a 49 strand, 13 lb steel wire that you can tie like normal line. Might work better than normal leaders.

The 49strand, 13lb stuff costs an arm and a leg, that's the only downfall.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have you tried tiable wire? American Fishing Wire makes a 49 strand, 13 lb steel wire that you can tie like normal line. Might work better than normal leaders.

The 49strand, 13lb stuff costs an arm and a leg, that's the only downfall.

Is this what you use for fly-fishing as well? If so, I wouldn't mind spending some money if I have double-use for it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In another post you asked about swimbaits. In early spring, a white twister is hard to beat. 1/16oz and a 3in gulp or scented bait at night will get you all types of shallow post spawn walleyes. At less than .50 cents apiece, who cares if you get bit off, right? Great swimbait practice. Save the cranks for when you're sure you wont lose them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In another post you asked about swimbaits. In early spring, a white twister is hard to beat. 1/16oz and a 3in gulp or scented bait at night will get you all types of shallow post spawn walleyes. At less than .50 cents apiece, who cares if you get bit off, right? Great swimbait practice. Save the cranks for when you're sure you wont lose them.

That's a great suggestion hotime! Unfortunately I have tried using twisters to no avail. I will be trying paddle-tails and twisters more and more to build my confidence level though. I also would like to use a similar leader for fly-fishing pike and muskies. Maybe a post in the fly-fishing or muskie forum would be better??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You might give fluorocarbon a shot. I've never been bit off on 20 or 25lb fluoro, despite catching pike and muskies big and small. My 48''er had the fluoro leader IN the mouth and definitely raked it against the teeth.

You might try just tying on 8-12 inches of some 12lb fluoro leader, I've been meaning to give lighter fluoro a try to see if it provides any bite protection against pike. I'll be fishing more small stuff this year for bass, so that's my first idea/plan to hopefully at least reduce bite-offs, if not prevent them completely.

Anyone have any input on bite-offs and fluoro in the 8-15lb test range?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is there a reason for such a big price difference?

My guess is that tackle manufacturers know they can gouge fly fishermen, who are notorious for paying big bucks :P

It's still a good investment, if a section of 1 foot leader costs you $1, and protects against a single bite-off saving your $5+ crankbait, well.. the math is easy there.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

They are similarly priced per foot ($10/10ft, ~$20/25ft)

Though, in general, fly fishermen do get totally hosed on prices. For instance bead chain eyes for tying - $5 for a foot. Same thing at a craft store is $1.

Foam sheets at a fly shop - $4 for three 6"X8" sheets, at a craft store, $4 for a dozen sheets of varying colors (8.5"X11")

For the record, fly fishing is moving in both direction as far as cost goes. Everything is getting more expensive for the highest performance stuff, but on the other hand, there is gear available these days that performs very well, for a fraction of the price.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

They are similarly priced per foot ($10/10ft, ~$20/25ft)

HaHa...duh! I didn't even notice the footage. I'm relatively new to fly-fishing but I have also noticed that you pay a premium when buying fly-fishing gear and supplies. I'm not into tying...yet, but thanks for the tip on the craft store. I'm sure there's a million things you could use down to pheasant and grouse feathers from last years birds that you would normally buy for 5 or 10 bucks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
    • Chef boyardee pizza from the box!
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.