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jdog

amsoil sabre

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i was just curious is this a good oil for breaking in a new auger if so just wondering what ratio everyone else used for the break in process ive seen most people use 80:1 or 100:1 and im kinda scared to go that low with the oil

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if its brand new i woud advise to folow the manufacturers recomendations so you dont void the waranty. i have never used it personally but ive read on hear about a lot of people talkin it up at 80:1 0r 100:1

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Been using it for 2 yrs now great stuff. I try and get it mixed @ 5:1 myself. Made a huge difference in starting and smoke. Jiffy stealth

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I was skeptical at first too, but I've been using it for 3 years at 100:1 and my auger has never ran as good! Way less smoke in the shack too. As said above though, id follow your manufacturers recommendation for the first couple tanks.

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I used 50:1 for the first couple of tanks as Don has stated, and I've been running 80:1 since.

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Made a typo I use 50:1 in mine also no problems @ all probably will be changing to 80:1 this year.

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Brand new machine you can use the AMSOIL Saber Professional, but the first tank or two mix it richer 50-1 with Saber Prof for break-in. Then after a couple of tanks you can safely drop to the leaner 80-1 or 100-1.

Follow this TO THE LETTER, and you will have no problems! I run at 80-1 or so, and won't ever let anything else get into my gas tank!

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Follow this TO THE LETTER, and you will have no problems! I run at 80-1 or so, and won't ever let anything else get into my gas tank!

+1

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I use the Sabre Pro in my Nils and run it between 80/100:1 and it flies! Auger is 5 years old and runs like a charm and doesn't smoke.

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I run at 80:1, it's way too easy to be off a little bit pouring from the container to mix at 100:1. I think I seen a post on here earlier that JP from Nils said to mix at 80:1 with Sabre.

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just filled up the new solo last night for break in I used one of the smal 8oz bottles to just over 2.6 gallons and there was still minamal smoke

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To the original poster's question:

Sorry, but I have to call the B. S. card here.

I know Amsoil is a forum sponsor and they make an excellent product for most uses (I use it myself), but NEVER use a fully synthetic oil for break in. If you do some research past “forum knowledge”, you will find that the excellent lubricity of Amsoil and other synthetic oils will actually inhibit the metal to metal seating that you want to have when breaking in an engine, most specifically the rings. If you use a mineral based oil for break in, the rings will wear into the cylinder walls (seat) and maximize your compression. With a synthetic, the engine seems to break in just fine, but ring seating is minimized, resulting in a less powerful engine that will never work as well as if you did it right the first time.

An example of this is the three snowmobile manufacturers who still produce two stroke engines. All three actually deliver the sleds to the user with tank full a semi synthetic oil blend (colored the same as their recommended fully synthetic oil) to ensure that the engines break in correctly. While the synthetics will not cause failure on break in, you will never have an engine as powerful as one broken in on a mineral or synthetic/mineral blend (semi synthetic).

Always follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for the first couple of tanks then feel free to go to the synthetics at the 80:1 or 100:0 mixtures for the rest of the life of the engine.

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To the original poster's question:

Sorry, but I have to call the B. S. card here.

I know Amsoil is a forum sponsor and they make an excellent product for most uses (I use it myself), but NEVER use a fully synthetic oil for break in. If you do some research past “forum knowledge”, you will find that the excellent lubricity of Amsoil and other synthetic oils will actually inhibit the metal to metal seating that you want to have when breaking in an engine, most specifically the rings. If you use a mineral based oil for break in, the rings will wear into the cylinder walls (seat) and maximize your compression. With a synthetic, the engine seems to break in just fine, but ring seating is minimized, resulting in a less powerful engine that will never work as well as if you did it right the first time.

An example of this is the three snowmobile manufacturers who still produce two stroke engines. All three actually deliver the sleds to the user with tank full a semi synthetic oil blend (colored the same as their recommended fully synthetic oil) to ensure that the engines break in correctly. While the synthetics will not cause failure on break in, you will never have an engine as powerful as one broken in on a mineral or synthetic/mineral blend (semi synthetic).

Always follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for the first couple of tanks then feel free to go to the synthetics at the 80:1 or 100:0 mixtures for the rest of the life of the engine.

Boy Hydro - way to lay into him. I thought it was a valid question... especially considering how much people talk up Amsoil on these forums. Not everyone knows as much as you man..... that's why they ask questions here....jeez.

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I believe the pillow packs are 1.5 oz. If you squeeze it all out to one gallon of gas that is about 83 to 1

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Well Hydro in your response to your crusty answer I say your full of B.S. I now breakin with Amsoil on my new gear and no power issues at all . Stihl does the same with their chainsaws etc and I just bought one that came with the stihl synthetic but I used Amsoil instead . All you have to do for breakin and seating is get the engine hot . I haven't believed the ol wives tale of using dino oil for breakins in years . Car manufacturers don't use dino oil either . The tech has come a long ways .

TD

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Amsoil fixed my chainsaw!!!!! I picked up a used saw and would not start hot or idle. I adjusted the idle until there was no idle left. I was going to take it apart but instead I tried 80 to 1 went into the back yard worked work about a half tank through it and it got alot better. Took it to the cabin dropped a few trees and it runs like a champ!!!!

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First off, I am not bashing either Don or Amsoil. It's a great product and Don is the guy to buy it from. Absolutely use it on a day to day basis in all of your power equipment.

I do, however, stand behind my statement that break in is not the time to use synthetics, due to the reality that they lubricate extremely well. You can use it for beak in if you wish, and your engine will still run, but just not quite as well. One more tidbit, the long term corrosion resistance of synthetic oil is far less than traditional mineral oil, so be sure to fog any engine you have used it in before putting them away for the season.

TD, do you know for a fact that the automakers fill the crankcase at the factory with fully synthetic oil for the break in period? It would be interesting to know if they do, and what manufacturing tolerances enable them to do it.

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The technology of OEM honing and manufacturing improved a very big step around year 2000. The auto manufacturing began using "micro-honing" around then. They also started using the 'new' technology of low-tension rings. Break-in is essential immediate. GM started using synthetics as factory fill in most Corvettes in 1989. GM with 2011 model year is using only synthetic in all gasoline engines - the new dexos1 spec, though the word 'synthetic' is not in the specification, there is no oil company trying to meet the spec without being a full synthetic. The factory fill is a full synthetic product from Exxon/Mobil. Most European cars have been using synthetics for factory fill since about 2000. The Ford Motorcraft factory fill and preferred engine oil since about 2000 in most of their gasoline engines is partial-synthetic minimum spec.

However, I do not know whether 2-cycle engines are using the 'micro-honing' or not. But many, many have successfully used synthetic mix oil from new in these engines for at least the last 10 years. Most 2-cycle engine manufacturers do prefer to use the oil double rich for break-in of the first couple of tanks.

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