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Hub-Style Mods?


hoggs222

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good question----I was think of doing some basic LED rope lighting to my Eskimo Quickfish III. What I've done in teh past is a zip tie at the center of the ceiling to hold my latern.

But there really is not much to do. What I love about the HUB houses is you can pick up and relocate at a moments notice.

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+2...more specifically, I'm currently planning a floor for my 6x12 hub house and looking for some ideas on how to do that. Plan to use it as a sleeper so am thinking of even building an insulated floor system....maybe 1" sheets of the pink foam insulation sandwiched between some 1/4 ply or something?????

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I was going to ask the same thing. I just got a clam expedition today and I'm wondering if people have put Reflectix in their pop ups. And if so do they have any tips for instalation. I was also wondering what people use for a floor if anything. I was considering a couple pieces of plywood that would fit in the bottom of my sled. I also thought about using some carpet or insulated tarp. Thanks for any tips.

Sorry I was still typing when the last two guys were responding. They kind of went in a similar direction as I did.

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TIP: Rubber (Not PVC or plastic) truck floor mats, for use as a "quick hub floor" and a place to set your cooker/heater so it does not melt down a slough.

This also reduces humidity, that consequently reduced frosting of the canvas and zippers.

They pack well in the sled, and offer a lot of other crossover utility for the sportsman.

You can get nice sets of good looking flexible real rubber mats at Gander Mtn in the auto accessories dept, for cheap. They are tough and flexible even in -0 weather.

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I have 2 large mats in my Clam Command Post.I use the heavy perforated rubber mats like those behind a bar. They are heavy duty, don't hold water, roll up nicely and easy to move. As stated earlier, they stop the ice melt in front of the heaters and provide great insulation for your feet. You can find them at restaraunt / bar supply outlets.

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good question----I was think of doing some basic LED rope lighting to my Eskimo Quickfish III. What I've done in teh past is a zip tie at the center of the ceiling to hold my latern.quote]

Any issues with the roof melting having the lantern that close?

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I have an idea that is hub style related. What if a person used a 6X12 drop down frame and used 6X12 fish house and placed it on the frame when you get to the lake? This way you have only the frame in tow and maybe the wheeler on the trialer and you can just erect the hub style house on the frame when you get to the lake? You may not want to leave it over night but it definetly will be cheaper and easier to use.

Just thinking about how to utilize a drop down and 6X12 for more uses because of the size and cost, what do others think about this idea?

mr

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I have an idea that is hub style related. What if a person used a 6X12 drop down frame and used 6X12 fish house and placed it on the frame when you get to the lake? This way you have only the frame in tow and maybe the wheeler on the trialer and you can just erect the hub style house on the frame when you get to the lake? You may not want to leave it over night but it definetly will be cheaper and easier to use.

mr

Drop down frames are darn expensive. If you're going to drop the cash for the frame, you might as well build up a full house on it.

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Not so far---I use a coleman lantern with 1-lb propane tank and hook that to the handle of the lantern. I suppose I let it hang down about 8" or so from the ceiling so no problems that I've experienced. I don't usually keep it illuminated that bright though.

The issue is more about bumping into it if you move around---that's why I thought rope lighting may work well.

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I'm curious to see how the new Clam hub shelves work. Anyone got any feedback from experience??

I would love to hear if anyone has come up with a simple/easy mod (need pic's) for installing something like Reflectix in a hub. Single biggest issue with non-thermal hubs IMO is heavy condensation on cold outings. This would help immensely - definitely was the ticket for my flipover shack.

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I'm curious to see how the new Clam hub shelves work. Anyone got any feedback from experience??

I would love to hear if anyone has come up with a simple/easy mod (need pic's) for installing something like Reflectix in a hub. Single biggest issue with non-thermal hubs IMO is heavy condensation on cold outings. This would help immensely - definitely was the ticket for my flipover shack.

The new Eskimo Qwickfish 4 has a "thermal barrier" that attaches at the top of the walls to hold the heat down and prevent moisture buildup. It takes a few minutes to put it up, but if it isn't that cold you can just leave it out. I have a Qwickfish 4, but haven't had it on the ice yet.
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I'm curious to see how the new Clam hub shelves work. Anyone got any feedback from experience??

I would love to hear if anyone has come up with a simple/easy mod (need pic's) for installing something like Reflectix in a hub. Single biggest issue with non-thermal hubs IMO is heavy condensation on cold outings. This would help immensely - definitely was the ticket for my flipover shack.

I bought the shelf today as well as some Reflectix. I will definitely post my results when I get a chance to set it all up. I'm thinking about a roof liner that I can remove easily when I take it down. If I have any left I might try to cover the wall that my back is facing. Maybe you already do this but putting something on the ground under your heater will help with condensation.

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I have an idea that is hub style related. What if a person used a 6X12 drop down frame and used 6X12 fish house and placed it on the frame when you get to the lake?.....

I have seen people doing this on another forum i visit often. Costs <$2k. Google Clam Trailer and click the very first that comes up. There is a pic for you. Pretty attractive concept if you ask me.

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Floor: Right now I just use three 3'x4' outdoor rugs. I was thinking of using some of those 2x2 Subfloor panels. The ones that have the plastic bottoms with all the bumps (Subfloor brand and not Dricore).

They are about 7/8" thick. I would consider using them to do a 6x12 floor, but they are 7.5 lbs each (not issue if driving out).

Anyone else ever use these?

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is it worth spending the extra money on the thermal hub-style house?

for a floor could you use a piece of treated plywood with marine carpet on top?? maybe put hinges on it so you could fold it in half so it would be easier to move??

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I'm going to build one that folds in half. I'll use 3/8 plywood and 1x2's and outdoor carpeting. I built the floor in my portable spear house like this and it works good.

I don't think treated or marine plywood is necessary just prime it and a good coat of paint.

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To be honest---the wet floor has never been that big an issue for me. Probably because I stay so mobile. YES, I've had a wet floor when conditions are right---but I travel pretty light.--gloves, hat, etc in side pockets, velcro light items that need to stay dry to overhead posts, items that can get a little wet stay on the floor, Ice King boots keep feet warm---and I'm ready to move on when the bite goes South. Remember, its' give and take--no Shanty is ideal for all situations.

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