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Building a Pole Barn


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I am in the beginning process of planning a Pole Barn at the lake to use for storage purposes only.

It will be a box store 24' x 27'

I have built garages in the past but never a pole builing.

I have a couple of questions.

The ground is fairily level, should I get it perfectly level?

It will have class 5 for the floor.

When setting the posts, do I try to make them the same hight by the dept of the hole or just trim the tops off?

I have heard that I don't secure the side posts (fill the hole completely)until I set the trusses, to ease with spacing???

I am sure I will have more questions but this is enough to get me going.

I had a contractor at the lake quote me $2200 for labor and that is with me and some buddies helping... seems high so I might want to try this on my own.

I will have access to a bob cat.

Any input would be appreciated.

Mike

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I am in the beginning process of planning a Pole Barn at the lake to use for storage purposes only.

It will be a box store 24' x 27'

I have built garages in the past but never a pole builing.

I have a couple of questions.

The ground is fairily level, should I get it perfectly level?

It will have class 5 for the floor.

Not Needed. You can level after you have the post and the treated at the sides down.

When setting the posts, do I try to make them the same hight by the dept of the hole or just trim the tops off?

Trim the tops. You will never be able to get them set properly by depth of the hole, and you will have taller posts on the gable ends.

I have heard that I don't secure the side posts (fill the hole completely)until I set the trusses, to ease with spacing???

Sorry, I don't follow

I am sure I will have more questions but this is enough to get me going.

I had a contractor at the lake quote me $2200 for labor and that is with me and some buddies helping... seems high so I might want to try this on my own.

$2,200, that is a little more then 40 hours of labor. Add in their tools, equipment, insurance, the knowledge of what to do, as well as the tricks of the trade, safety items, etc. Two guys for half a week? Seems more then reasonable to me, and maybe a little light.

I will have access to a bob cat.

Any input would be appreciated.

Mike

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A bit directly off the subject but are you sure that you can build one that big and place it where you want too? I'd ask some questions of the local officials to make sure you don't end up boogering it up and having to pay some fine or even worse take it down. Another thought is to talk to your neighbors about what you plan on doing so you don't ruffle any feathers there either. I wouldn't let them dictate what you can/can't do but avoiding hassles in the future would be a good thing IMO.

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Isn't that part of the reason a permit is required Tom? Good to point that out. I've known people that have gone ahead and completed a project like this only to have to move it or remove it after it was done.

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Thanks guys,

Just to clear up some details.

I have 8 acres at the lake, space is no problem. The application will be going in the mail shortly as I have already been in contact with them and size is not an issue.

I do not have anybody to the south of me and the 1st neighbor to the north has no problem as I helped in the construction of his garage last year. The next meighbor to the north is the possible builder.

We all have atleast 6 acre lots and there is only 6 lots in the developement.

Thanks for your concerns though.

Mike

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1 ground should be somewhat level, but you can grad afterwards...

2 set the posts, and cut them off

$2200 and your helping?? that works out to about 3.40/sq ft.. for that price he should build the whold thing. if he knows what he's doing, day 1 set posts, day 2 girts trusses, 3 purlins/ girts 4 steel, windows, doors, day 5 trim, finish up, 6-7 fill it up, sit back drink a beer..

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Now on serious side, check with county for codes, you might find you need engineering seals, and a print.. check for truss loading required. If your gonna put cattle in it, it falls under a different class of code than a "storage " shed. If not built to code, and for some reason it would collapse, you might not get anything through your insurance.. but.. If built to code, you should be covered.

another good thought is wainscoat if the bottom panel gets damaged, or banged up, you could replace it, rather than a whole sheet.

are you going to ever turn it into a shop? insulate it? what could future uses be... If going to your gonna need overhangs, with soffits and facia, and a ridge venting..

just a few things to think about..

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Now on serious side, check with county for codes, you might find you need engineering seals, and a print.. check for truss loading required. If your gonna put cattle in it, it falls under a different class of code than a "storage " shed. If not built to code, and for some reason it would collapse, you might not get anything through your insurance.. but.. If built to code, you should be covered.

another good thought is wainscoat if the bottom panel gets damaged, or banged up, you could replace it, rather than a whole sheet.

are you going to ever turn it into a shop? insulate it? what could future uses be... If going to your gonna need overhangs, with soffits and facia, and a ridge venting..

just a few things to think about..

Who keeps cattle at the lake?

Wainscoat? Where, on the inside? Whole sheet of what? metal siding?

I dont mean to sound condescending, but I'm not following.

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What I am getting at, is that different buildings may fall under differenet codes. Where we live here in SE MN, One county had codes up the Butt, the next county will let you do about anything.

I could build 2 sheds on each side of the county line, and one needs an inspection, one don't. I tell one county Its for cattle it requires 29# loading on trusses.. thats live load,dead load top and a live on the bottom. If I'm gonna put a car,boat, ect.. in there I need to jump it up to 37-40# loading.

want a ceiling in it someday, but not right now?? you need to have trusses loaded for them right now.. putting a ceiling in trusses not engineered for a ceiling can harm the structural integrity of the trusses. then when It snows, the roof pushing down, will collapse the roof...because the ceiling inside is pulling down..

wainscoat is 2 different steel panels on the outside of the structure separated by a piece of d-2 trim.(like an L flashing) then you can have 2 different colors of steel on the walls. (EXTERIOR)

anymore questions just shout!!

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My buddy did a 50x80 and has the bottom wainscotting and it looks great (tan top green bottom). I never thought of the fact that if the bottom get banged up (kids on dirt bike, backing truck into it, etc.) you would only have to replace a smaller sheet, but I like that idea! Wish I could do a pole barn, but I can't... Good luck MNMike! I am jealous smile

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Sounds like your putting the poles directly into the dirt? Have you thought about pouring concrete footings (the tube type)? Avoid rot..?

There are a bunch of ways of doing it, and I'm not sure what is the best, just curious. I'm not sure if poles on top of concrete will give the proper lateral bracing.

I have also seen putting some stone pad thing in the bottom of the hole and putting gravel around the base.

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Mike, have you talked to a BUILDING SAFETY guy??

I tell you, I've sold for MENARDS, and some allow the pads, and others want a Direct Pour.. Hate to see you order the pads and then have some inspector say that you need Redi-Mix to come in.

by the sound of it you had 9 ' oc and are now adding 2 trusses??

Why not go 30' long, and go 6'oc on the trusses.. you'll get 72 more sq ft. and will end up adding a couple posts. you going columns or poles?

Just a thought, are you going to pull power to it right away?? If your not going to have power right away, or don't plan to put a ceiling in... think of getting some ridge lite. This will let some nice light in through the top.

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Update on the Pole Building process.

Ordered the building and had it scheduled for delivery 8-2-10. After looking at the plans one more time I realized that I needed another truss. They we able to order it and still get it delivered 8-2-10. We are going up this weekend to check it out and start the process.

Permit was pulled and all is good. One thing that confuses me, no where on the permit is there a sign off for, footings, framing and final. I built a garage in St Paul and I needed all of these signed off.

Anywho.....

Question for ya'all.

Should I put fabric down before I get the class 5 delivered for the floor? Should I kill the grass or just run the class 5 over it?

I am sure I will have more questions later but that is all I have now.

Thanks,

Mike

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kinda depends on the county, twnship ect...

I've worked some areas where about all you need for a print is a napkin, and the next place wants prints..

same goes for MR.Inspector... some want to look at the holes b4 they are poured, others just want to do a final...

Have a Great Weekend!! and Remember... NO BEER TILL ITS SQUARED UP!!

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11-87,

Arrived at the Lake around 6 and the garage was laying, not where I asked them to put it but I can work around this.

Upon inspection I noticed that the trim on the entry door is totaly smashed on both corners and in the middle, the window is junk also. I brought them home to see if I could exchange them at my local Mendards, no go, they are special order and I have to deal with Hermantown. Hermantown is where I had the materials delivered out of.

I will call the Friday office to see what they can do for me, I bought it there.

?We put the feet on the poles and it looks like labor day will be the big push to get most of it done.

As far as inspections, I talked to the guy who issued the permit and because I am the builder I do not need to have it inspected. On the permit application there is a spot to sign as a waiver not to hold the county responsible if something happens to the building.

More later,

Mike

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