So you want a smoker, huh? How to make one!!!!

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Well, follow along and we'll just build you one!

BUILD YOUR OWN SMOKER

HERE IS WHAT THE COMPLETED SMOKER AS BUILT WILL LOOK LIKE:

ITEMS NEEDED:

TWO SHEETS ¾” AC PLYWOOD

ONE TURKEY DEEP FRYER BURNER ASSEMBLY

HELPFUL TOOLS: TABLE SAW, BISQUIT JOINER, SANDER, JIG SAW, PNEUMATIC STAPLER, CORDLESS DRILL, WOOD CLAMPS

MISCELLANEOUS HARDWARE AS SHOWN:

LET’S GET STARTED. RIP BOTH SHEETS OF PLYWOOD SO YOU HAVE TWO PIECES 28” WIDE AND TWO PIECES 20” WIDE:

CROSSCUT THE ENDS OFF OF ALL FOUR PIECES SO THE SHEETS ARE 64” LONG. USE A SAW GUIDE AND MAKE SURE YOUR CUTS ARE SQUARE. KEEP THE SMALLER CUT OFF END PIECES, THEY WILL BE USED LATER. WHEN USING A CIRCULAR SAW AS SHOWN, KEEP THE BETTER FINISHED SIDE FACING DOWN FOR A CLEANER LOOKING CUT ON THAT SIDE:

AS YOU GO ALONG HERE, IT IS ADVISABLE TO MARK THINGS SO YOU KNOW WHAT IS WHAT AS YOU PROGRESS ALONG, THIS IS CRITICAL IF YOU ARE GOING TO USE A BISQUIT JOINER AS I DID:

NOW LAY ONE OF THE 28” WIDE SHEETS ON A COUPLE OF SAWHORSES. USE THE LEAST VISUALLY ATTRACTIVE PIECE, AS THIS WILL BE THE REAR OF THE SMOKER. THE TWO 20” SIDE PIECES CAN NOW BE INSTALLED ONTO THE BACK. FACE THE BEST SURFACES OUT. IT’LL LOOK BETTER. I USE A BISQUIT JOINER TO KEEP EVERYTHING LINED UP, BUT IT IS NOT NECESSARY IF YOU DON’T HAVE ACCESS TO ONE. USE A LIBERAL AMOUNT OF WOOD GLUE DURING ASSEMBLY AND A STAPLER OR BRAD NAILER IF YOU HAVE ACCESS TO ONE OF THEM:

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CLAMPS ARE VERY HELPFUL FOR THIS ASSEMBLY, AS YOU CAN SEE. HOWEVER, ON MY FIRST SMOKER ASSEMBLY I SCREWED EVERYTHING TOGETHER, SO THE BISQUIT JOINER AND CLAMPS AREN’T REQUIRED, BUT THEY SURE DO MAKE THINGS EASIER:

HERE IS A PHOTO OF ONE SIDE ATTACHED, AND THE OTHER SIDE READY TO BE INSTALLED.

WHILE THE GLUE IS DRYING, TAKE ONE OF THE 20” WIDE SHORT PIECES YOU CUT OFF EARLIER AND CROSSCUT SIX PIECES FROM IT THAT MEASURE 3 ½” WIDE X 20” LONG:

DRAW A LINE LENGTHWISE DOWN THE CENTER OF EACH PIECE YOU JUST CUT, AND THEN MEASURE AND MARK SEVEN EQUAL MARKS CROSSWAYS. THEY WILL LOOK LIKE THIS WHEN FINISHED:

DRILL A 1” HOLE ON EACH INTERSECTING POINT AS SHOWN: (THE USE OF A FORSTNER BIT IS EXTREMELY HELPFUL HERE. THERE ARE 42 HOLES TO DRILL, AND A HOLESAW WILL WORK BUT DIGGING THE PLUGS OUT OF THE HOLESAW 42 TIMES IS EXTREMELY TEDIOUS.) BUY YOURSELF THE FORSTNER BIT, YOU’LL BE GLAD YOU DID.

YOU WILL HAVE SIX PIECES THAT NOW LOOK LIKE THIS:

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NOW RUN EACH PIECE RIGHT DOWN THE MIDDLE LENGTHWAYS THROUGH YOUR TABLESAW, AND PRESTO, YOU HAVE INSTANT DOWEL HOLDERS:

NOW GLUE AND STAPLE THE DOWEL HOLDERS TO EACH SIDE, THEY WILL BE TOWARDS THE TOP OF THE SMOKER. A LITTLE BIT OF TRIAL AND ERROR ON MY PART TELLS ME THE FOLLOWING MEASUREMENTS WILL WORK WELL FOR YOU. IF YOU CAN’T SEE THEM CLEARLY IN THE PHOTO BELOW, FROM THE TOP THEY MEASURE 3 ½”, 7 ½”, 11 ½”, 15 ½”, 19 ½” AND 23 ½”. MAKE SURE YOU FACE THEM IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION!

SO HERE WE ARE, WE HAVE THE DOWEL HOLDERS MOUNTED TO EACH SIDE OF THE SMOKER:

AT THE LOWER END OF THE SMOKER, RUN A STRIP OF WOOD AROUND THE INSIDE PERIMETER OF THE SMOKER. HAVE THE TOP OF IT 8” FROM THE BOTTOM OF THE SMOKER. THIS IS GOING TO BE A SUPPORT FOR A SUBFLOOR THAT WILL HOLD THE BURNER IN PLACE:

ONE MORE VIEW:

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STAND THE SMOKER UPRIGHT, WITH THE BOTTOM SIDE UP. NOW TAKE ONE OF THE 28” WIDE END PIECES YOU CUT OFF EARLIER AND CROSSCUT A PIECE OFF SO THAT AFTER LAYING IT ON THE BACK AND SIDES, IT EXTENDS OUT ¾” ON THE FRONT. THIS WILL BE THE BOTTOM OF THE SMOKER, AND IT CAN NOW BE GLUED AND STAPLED TO THE BACK AND SIDES. AGAIN, I USE A BISQUIT JOINER HERE TO KEEP EVERYTHING LINED UP, BUT YOU CAN GET BY WITHOUT ONE:

FLIP THE SMOKER OVER SO THE TOP END IS NOW UP. NOW TAKE THE OTHER 28” PIECE YOU CUT OFF EARLIER AND LAY IT ON THE TOP. I LIKE TO LEAVE A LITTLE OVERHANG; IT LOOKS GOOD AND DRESSES UP THE SMOKER WHEN DONE. IT WILL BE 28” WIDE AND APPROX 24” OR SO THE OTHER WAY, DEPENDING ON HOW MUCH OVERHANG YOU WANT TO HAVE:

NOW IS A GOOD TIME TO PUT IN THE SUBFLOOR THAT THE BURNER WILL BE MOUNTED ON. YOU WILL USE THE REMAINING 20” WIDE PIECE YOU STILL HAVE FROM THE BEGINNING STEP. IT WILL HAVE TO HAVE A SMALL STRIP CUT OFF SO IT WILL FIT BETWEEN THE SIDES, AS SHOWN. ALSO, IT IS A GOOD TIME TO MOUNT THE WHEELS TO THE BOTTOM OF THE SMOKER. I STORE MY SMOKER IN THE GARAGE TO KEEP IT OUT OF THE ELEMENTS, AND THE WHEELS ALLOW EASILY MOVING IT OUTDOORS TO USE IT.

TIME TO TAKE A LOOK AT THE BURNER:

IT’S OBVIOUSLY A LITTLE TALL TO BE PUTTING INTO THIS SMOKER LOOKING LIKE THAT, SO A FEW MODIFICATIONS ARE IN ORDER TO MAKE IT WORK FOR THIS APPLICATION. THE FOLLOWING PICTURES SHOULD GIVE YOU A GOOD IDEA OF WHAT TO DO:

I MAKE THE LEGS JUST LONG ENOUGH SO THE TOP OF THE BURNER (THE SILVER COLORED ITEM) IS 7” OFF THE FLOOR. HEAT RISES, SO HAVING IT DOWN THAT LOW IS NOT A PROBLEM. THE FLOOR OF MY SMOKER DOES NOT GET SO HOT I CAN’T LAY MY HAND ON IT.

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THE MODIFIED BURNER AND STAND IS NOW BOLTED TO THE SUBFLOOR:

THE HOSE AND REGULATOR THAT COME WITH THE TURKEY FRYER BURNER NEED TO BE REMOVED FROM THE BURNER AND DISCARDED. THE REGULATOR IS WAY TO LARGE, MOST OF THEM ARE 5# UNITS THAT WILL MAKE A BLOWTORCH OUT OF THE BURNER, WHICH IS WAY TO HOT FOR PUTTING INTO THIS SMOKER. YOU DON’T WANT A HOSE INSIDE EITHER, IN CASE IT WOULD RUPTURE AND CAUSE AN EXPLOSION. SO DO YOURSELF A BIG FAVOR, AND THROW THEM BOTH AWAY.

THE BURNER HAS A BARBED BRASS FITTING THAT YOU WILL CUT THE HOSE OFF OF. SOMEHOW YOU NEED TO GET A FITTING ATTACHED TO IT THAT WILL HAVE ¼” NPT THREADS. I FOUND THE ITEM PICTURED BELOW, WHICH I BELIEVE IS REFERRED TO AS A 1/8”X1/4” BELL REDUCER AND HAD THE 1/8” END BRAZED TO THE BARBED FITTING.

HERE IS THE MODIFIED FITTING ATTACHED TO THE BURNER:

GO TO YOUR LOCAL HARDWARE SUPPLY STORE AND ROUND UP THE FOLLOWING FITTINGS. THEY ARE ¼” THREADS AND ¼” TUBING FITTINGS. THE FIRST TWO ITEMS SCREW TOGETHER AND DO A HOSE TO TUBING CONVERSION. THE THIRD ITEM PICTURED ATTACHES TO THE BURNER SO YOU CAN FASTEN THE COPPER TUBING TO THE BURNER. A GOOD SALESPERSON CAN HELP YOU OUT IF YOU DESCRIBE WHAT YOU NEED TO DO:

THIS IS YOUR AIM:

NOTE HOW I USED ¼” COPPER TUBING TO ATTACH TO THE BURNER AND RUN IT DOWN BELOW THE SUBFLOOR, WHERE I DO A COPPER TO LP HOSE CONVERSION. BUY YOURSELF ABOUT 6 FEET OF QUALITY LP HOSE. ALSO, NOTE HOW I ATTACHED THE HOSE TO THE SIDE WITH A CLAMP SO THAT IF SOMEONE YANKS ON THE HOSE, THEY DON’T BEND THE FRAGILE COPPER TUBING.

ON THE OTHER END OF THE HOSE, YOU NEED A QUALITY NEEDLE VALVE (FOUND IN AIR COMPRESSOR DEPT) AND AN ADJUSTABLE LP REGULATOR. YOU CAN TELL WHICH ONES ARE ADJUSTABLE BY THE BLACK LOOKING PLASTIC HEX NUT ON TOP. UNDERNEATH THAT PLASTIC NUT IS AN ADJUSTER THAT WHEN TURNED IN ALLOWS MORE PROPANE TO FLOW THROUGH. MINE IS ADJUSTED FULLY IN TO GET MAXIMUM FLAME, BUT I LIVE IN A COLD CLIMATE, WHICH DOES MAKE A HUGE DIFFERENCE. THE REGULATOR AND NEEDLE VALVE ARE BOTH APPROX $13 ITEMS, SO THEY WON’T BREAK THE BANK WHEN YOU PURCHASE THEM. I USED THE TANK FITTING THAT CAME WITH THE TURKEY FRYER BURNER.

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NOW IS THE TIME TO GRAB THAT OTHER 28” WIDE LONG PIECE OF PLYWOOD TO PREPARE THE FRONT SIDE OF THE SMOKER. CUT A TRAP DOOR THAT WILL ALLOW ACCESS TO THE HOSE AND REGULATOR STORED IN THE BOTTOM COMPARTMENT. I CUT ¾ OF THE WAY AROUND, INSTALL MY HINGES TO HOLD EVERYTHING IN PLACE, AND THEN FINISH CUTTING. MAKE SURE YOUR DOOR HEIGHT IS LESS THAN 8 INCHES OR IT WILL PROTRUDE ABOVE THE SUBFLOOR LEVEL. CUT AN OPENING FOR THE 4”X10” FLOOR DIFFUSER. DO A LITTLE MEASURING SO THAT THE CENTER OF THE DIFFUSER IS CENTERED WITH THE AIR INTAKE OF THE BURNER, AS PICTURED BELOW.

I REMOVED THE ADJUSTABLE LOUVERS THAT WERE IN THE DIFFUSER SO THEY CANNOT BE SHUT. THE BURNER NEEDS ALL THE AIR IT CAN GET DOWN HERE. I THINK IT IS POSSIBLE TO BUY DIFFUSERS THAT DON’T HAVE THE LOUVERS AND IF SO THAT WOULD BE THE WAY TO GO IF THEY ARE AVAILABLE. IF NOT, REMOVE THE LOUVERS SO NOBODY ELSE SHUTS THEM IF THEY HAPPEN TO BORROW YOUR SMOKER.

ON TOP OF THE SMOKER, INSTALL A 2 ½” X 10” FLOOR DIFFUSER TO SERVE AS YOUR VENT. MINE NORMALLY STAYS CLOSED FOR SMOKING/COOKING MOST MEATS, BUT WITH SOME JERKY YOU NEED TO DRY AS YOU SMOKE AND YOU MAY WANT TO HAVE THE LOUVERS OPEN TO ALLOW MOISTURE TO ESCAPE. WITH SUMMER SAUSAGE AND THE LIKE, YOU WILL WANT TO KEEP THE LOUVERS CLOSED TO RETAIN HEAT AND ALLOW FOR A MORE EVEN COOKING FROM TOP TO BOTTOM. DO NOT REMOVE THE LOUVERS ON THE TOP VENT!

LAY THE PREPARED FRONT ON THE SMOKER AND FASTEN IN PLACE. THE USE OF A BISQUIT JOINER AND A PNEUMATIC STAPLER OR BRAD NAILER REALLY HELPS HERE TO KEEP THINGS ALIGNED.

STAYING IN TWO INCHES FROM THE SIDES AND TOP, MARK OUT A DOOR APPROX 33” HIGH.

ROUND THE CORNERS SO YOU CAN CUT CONTINUOUS WITH A JIG SAW.

DRILL A STARTER HOLE UNDER WHERE ONE OF THE HINGES WILL BE LOCATED. IT’LL HIDE YOUR STARTING POINT: CUT UPWARDS AND MAKE YOUR TURN TO THE LEFT. YOU’LL HAVE TO STOP HERE AND CUT FROM THE OTHER DIRECTION SO YOUR JIGSAW WON’T HIT THE TOP. NOW GO BACK TO YOUR STARTING POINT AND CUT IN THE OPPOSITE DIRECTION. AFTER THE HINGE SIDE IS CUT, MOUNT THE HINGES TO HOLD EVERYTHING TOGETHER WHILE YOU FINISH CUTTING.

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BEFORE MAKING THE FINAL CUT, INSTALL THE DOOR HANDLE AND SLIP A PIECE OF WOOD IN IT TO KEEP THE DOOR FROM FALLING INTO THE CABINET WHEN THE FINAL CUT IS MADE. IT’S A BUGGER TO GET BACK OUT IF IT DOES.

AFTER THE DOOR IS CUT OUT, IT MAY NEED TO BE SANDED IN ORDER TO NOT RUB WHEN OPENING AND CLOSING. AFTER IT IS FITTED NICELY, GLUE IN A LITTLE STRIP OF WOOD TO ACT AS A DOOR STOP WHEN CLOSING THE DOOR. YOU DON’T WANT IT SWINGING PAST THE CLOSED POSITION. INSTALL OTHER HARDWARE AT THIS TIME. I PUT A HANDLE ON EACH SIDE OF THE SMOKER FOR EASE IN MOVING IT AROUND.

INSTALL A CLIP AND A STRIP OF WOOD TO ACT AS A DOOR STOP TO HOLD THE FLIP UP DOOR AT THE BOTTOM CLOSED. SHOWN IS THE HOSE ASSEMBLY READY TO BE HOOKED TO A TANK.

LOOKING IN AT THE FIRMLY FASTENED BURNER ASSEMBLY:

TEST FIRE:

FOR A PAN TO HOLD CHIPS OR SAWDUST, I USE A SMALLER CAST IRON SKILLET. I ALSO MADE A COVER FOR MY SAWDUST, ALTHOUGH NOT EVERYONE DOES. I FIGURE IF THE SAWDUST EVER CAUGHT FIRE, IT WOULD CONTAIN THE FIRE WITHOUT BURNING DOWN THE SMOKER! ANY PAN COVER WITH SOME HOLES DRILLED SHOULD SUFFICE, SO I WOULD RECOMMEND YOU PUT ONE OVER YOUR PAN.

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DOWELS FOR HOLDING SUMMER SAUSAGE:

OR RACKS:

OR SKEWERS:

HERE ARE A COUPLE OF THERMOMETERS EVERY MEAT SMOKER SHOULD HAVE. THE LARGER ONE IS USED FOR MONITORING THE INTERNAL TEMPERATURE OF THE SMOKER, AND THE SMALLER ONE IS USED FOR PROBING MEATS TO SEE IF THEY ARE FULLY COOKED. YOU COULD ACTUALLY USE THE SMALLER ONE FOR BOTH JOBS IF YOU SO DESIRE, THEY CAN BE PURCHASED FOR AS LITTLE AS $6 OR $7 AT YOUR LOCAL WALMART OR TARGET STORES. I PAID $40 FOR THE LARGER ONE. IT COMES IN HANDY FOR MONITORING THE SMOKER TEMPERATURE FROM THE PICTURE WINDOW OF MY HOUSE. LAZY OR SMART? YOU DECIDE.

I HAVE BUILT SEVERAL OF THESE SMOKERS FOR FAMILY AND FRIENDS AND THEY HAVE PROVEN TO WORK VERY WELL. THE HEAT IS EASY TO CONTROL AND THE UNITS ARE PORTABLE SO THEY CAN BE THROWN ON THEIR BACKS IN THE REAR OF A PICKUP AND TRANSPORTED WITHOUT ANYTHING COMING APART. THEY ARE TALL ENOUGH TO COOK SUMMER SAUSAGE VERY WELL; ALONG WITH ABOUT ANY OTHER KIND OF MEAT SMOKING YOU MAY WANT TO DO.

SOME GUYS ASK ME WHY THE SUBFLOOR, JUST MOUNT THE BURNER ON THE BOTTOM AND BE DONE WITH IT. THAT SURE WOULD BE EASIER, BUT I WANTED A PLACE TO KEEP THE HOSE AND REGULATOR ASSEMBLY, AND NOT HAVE TO HAVE SOMETHING STICKING OUT THE SIDE OF THE SMOKER TO HOOK TO A PROPANE TANK.

COST: WHEN YOU GET ONE OF THESE COMPLETED, YOU’LL FIND YOU WILL HAVE INVESTED AROUND $200 TO BUILD THE SMOKER. I FIND THAT PRETTY REASONABLE, ESPECIALLY WHEN YOU OPEN ANY SUPPLY CATALOG AND SEE WHAT THEY GET FOR THEIR SMOKERS. YOU WILL FIND THEY CAN BE TWICE THE COST AND HALF THE SIZE.

A WORD OF CAUTION HERE: THESE SMOKERS ARE MADE OF WOOD. WOOD WILL BURN! IN OVER TEN YEARS OF USING MY SMOKER I HAVE YET TO RUN INTO A SITUATION THAT CAUSED ME ANY CONCERN, BUT I CREDIT THAT TO PAYING ATTENTION TO WHAT I AM DOING, WATCHING THE TEMPERATURE AND KEEPING IT UNDER CONTROL, AND GOOD OLD COMMON SENSE. THERE IS NO REASON TO TAKE THE TEMPERATURE OF ANY SMOKER (MY OPINION HERE) OVER 200 DEGREES OR SO. IF YOU WANT TO BAKE SOMETHING, PUT IT IN THE OVEN. A SMOKER IS FOR SMOKING AND GIVING FLAVOR, NOT BAKING TURKEYS AT 350 DEGREES. ALTHOUGH, I DID HAVE A BROTHER-IN-LAW WHO DID JUST THAT AND HAD NO ISSUES. I ONLY MENTION THAT TO GIVE YOU AN IDEA OF HOW DURABLE ONE OF THESE SMOKERS CAN ACTUALLY BE. IF YOU WANT TO RUN THE TEMPERATURE THAT HIGH, YOU WILL BE CHANCING A HIGH RISK OF FIRE, IN MY OPINION. DON’T DO IT! AND THE WHEELS HAVE A PURPOSE. ROLL THE SMOKER OUT AWAY FROM ANY BUILDING OR STRUCTURE BEFORE USING IT! IF SOMETHING WERE TO GO WRONG, LOSING YOUR SMOKER AND A LITTLE MEAT IS A LOT LESS CHAOTIC THAN LOSING YOUR GARAGE OR HOME.

AGAIN, COMMON SENSE AND JUST PAYING A LITTLE ATTENTION TO DETAIL WILL HELP TO PREVENT ANY MISHAPS FROM OCCURING. OPEN THE DOOR FULLY AND VENTILATE THE UNIT WELL BEFORE LIGHTING OR RE-LIGHTING THE BURNER. NEVER PUT FUEL TO THE BURNER UNTIL YOU HAVE YOUR LIGHTER OR MATCH UP TO THE BURNER TO LIGHT IT. KEEP KIDS AND IRRESPONSIBLE ADULTS AWAY AT ALL TIMES. SLAMMING THE DOOR SHUT CAN EXTINGUISH THE FLAME SO CLOSE IT GENTLY. SHUT OFF THE FUEL AND VENTILATE WELL BEFORE RE-LIGHTING. USE THE SAME COMMON SENSE AND CARE AS YOU DO YOUR BACKYARD GAS GRILL AND YOU’LL LIKELY BE JUST FINE.

GOOD LUCK.