Threw on the broadheads

[heat checker]

koonie,

Got that. Where do you sell bows out of? Went back to square one today, pretty much shot arrows and adjusted [PoorWordUsage] for 4 hrs. Finally threw in the white flag for the day. Bypassed the paper tune, went with bareshaft. Everything from 20 yds. Off the bat, bareshaft hitting target at angle,switched back and forth from 125 to 100 gr heads. Moved rest back and forth to find the straightest entry into target. Finally got a close to straight entry that was pretty close to the field tips. I can still see the bare shaft kick out a little bit, and sometimes it seems worse than others. Would too weak of spine cause this? Keep in mind I'm shooting thru a WB, so it really isn't a tack driver. By the time I threw broadheads on, I was pretty wore out(althought I managed to shave yet another vane of a shrinkfletch). All said and done, moved the nock point up about 1/32, and the rest about 1/16. Broadheads( spitfire mech) are closer than they were before and I have no doubt the boiler room will be hit at 30 yds, is that as good as it's gonna get with the WB, or do I got some more tuning to do? It doesn't seem right that the bare fletch doesn't hit the target the same angle time after time after time.Shoot release and wrist strap.

[MikeEiden]

I would definitly set up some paper and do some tuning just to see what it tells you. I've read a million different ways but I would start off at about 15' away and shoot thru; then go closer if needed. I would keep sessions short so you don't get fatigued and bad form comes more into play. If you don't get consistant tears then it may be more form and that has to be corrected first before tuning can be done accurately. You'll end up trying to adjust the bow to compensate for shooting form.

I had the same issue earlier this year with my arrows kicking left in flight once in a while. Came down to my bow grip which was torquing some. I wasn't grabbing the bow but I was focusing so much on my grip because I knew it was becoming an issue that I stiffened my fingers to much. Just came down to really relaxing my bow hand and letting my fingers 'hang' naturally and my grouping and arrow flight are right back in line.

Shoot some paper and see what it tells ya.

[koonie]

Dj's in Monte.

If your bow is in tune it may very well be a form issue.

Another thing to consider is turning your arrow nocks a hair. You definitely want to spin test your arrows with the broadheads on them as well. I think that using a heavier head actually weakens your spine so you may want to stick with the 100 grain heads.

I know it's almost the start of the season but if your arrows are a bit weak in the spine you could drop your bow weight down. Of course then you have the whole sighting process to deal with again. A couple of pounds could make the difference and you'd probably have to just lower your sight.

It's a little hard to say without seeing it. If you get a chance stop in and hopefully one or all of us can come up with a solution.

[eyeguy 54]

Try paper tuning from 6 feet. Just google Arrow Paper Tune.

[heat checker]

Holy Carp, there's alot of info here to absorb and think through.

Lets see if I got the just of some of it.

1. shooting a 31" 400 arrow out of a 29" draw at 63#, I've got too much flex in the arrow(underspined).

2. a heavier tip on an underspined arrow will only make the problem worse.

3. next to impossible to tune a bow shooting an underspined arrow? Which leaves me with these options: buy some 340's and start over, or drop poundage down and stick with the 100 gr.

A few questions I have:

Is papertune required if you bare shaft tune? Wouln't the bareshaft tune give a more accurate picture of how the arrow leaves the bow?

How many yds before the arrow should stabalize?

When first buying arrows and heads, what determines your choice? If my thinking is correct, For the #'s you want to shoot:if your arrow choice falls in the light end of the range choose the lighter head(assuming this will give you the most speed, but less KE). If your arrow choice falls in the heavy end, go with the heavier head. Less speed, but more KE? Better quit, MY head is starting to spin again.

[InTheNorthwoods]

Holy Carp, there's alot of info here to absorb and think through.

Lets see if I got the just of some of it.

1. shooting a 31" 400 arrow out of a 29" draw at 63#, I've got too much flex in the arrow(underspined).

2. a heavier tip on an underspined arrow will only make the problem worse.

3. next to impossible to tune a bow shooting an underspined arrow? Which leaves me with these options: buy some 340's and start over, or drop poundage down and stick with the 100 gr.

A few questions I have:

Is papertune required if you bare shaft tune? Wouln't the bareshaft tune give a more accurate picture of how the arrow leaves the bow?

How many yds before the arrow should stabalize?

When first buying arrows and heads, what determines your choice? If my thinking is correct, For the #'s you want to shoot:if your arrow choice falls in the light end of the range choose the lighter head(assuming this will give you the most speed, but less KE). If your arrow choice falls in the heavy end, go with the heavier head. Less speed, but more KE? Better quit, MY head is starting to spin again.

To screw with your head a little more, you could consider trimming your arrows which would help with the spine (shorter arrow has less flex or stronger spine), it sounds like you probably have at least 2" of arrow you could afford to trim. That would be cheaper than buying new arrows.

As to the tuning, it is possible to bareshaft tune to fine tune your bow, but without ever running it through paper you will likely be tuning blind (i.e. not knowing how the arrow is coming off the bow) and wasting lots of time guessing what you should adjust. Unless you have super human powers, it is nearly impossible to know how your arrow (bareshaft or otherwise) is leaving the bow. Shooting through paper will show you an exact tear and you can cover alot more ground alot faster and get you to a point where it is only fine tuning from there. Most people will use paper to get their bow close to on and bareshaft or broadhead tune as a way of dialing in their bow the last little bit. I would shoot through paper at a short distance (5' approx) and see where you are at. There are probably quite a few people on here who could help you out alot better after doing this.

Finally, you are almost always better off overspined than underspined, as it is alot more likely you will be able to tune a slightly overspined arrow than an underspined arrow.

[Neighbor_guy]

A couple things to add. The "chart" tends to lean heavily on the stiff side for arrows. Usualy a full size larger than you need to shoot.

Second thing is on the original size arrow and head thing. If you take the lenth of arrow you need,(draw lenth), your draw weight, and the arrow you plan to shoot. You can get an idea of the size head you need. All shaft producers give out the grains per inch of the saft's they produce. You take that value, multiply it by the lenght of the shaft, add in for nock, and fletch. Then decide how much you want your grains/pound to be. I like about 9gr of arrow per pound of draw weight. Some will go as high as 12, others as light as 7. As a general rule heavier arrows are quieter. The industry standard on this is 10gr/pound of draw as a starting point.

Anyhow, you figure how much tip weight you will need to get up to the needed total grain's of the shaft and your tip and insert need to be that much. When you balance your finished arrow on a knife blade it should be just about 70% (give or take) weight forward, meaning that 70% of the saft lenth on one side to 30% on the tip side.

Confused yet?

Or jsut go back to where you were when you started and put on 125gr broadheads.....

[heat checker]

Thanks for all the expert advice, long story short, ended up retuning (bareshaft), buying some 340's, and sticking with the 100 gr tips. Field points and bdhds now impact close, shooting a 2x2 piece of duck tape on target at 40. Geuss the extra speed of the new bow was enough to make my arrows underspined. Thanks again for the quick learning curve and good luck!

[koonie]

Now go shoot a 12 pointer.

[Archerysniper]

He has to out do the wis buck make it at least a 31 point