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mww24

motor bogging bad

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my motors acting up. when i first launch and run my boat it runs great. but then ill fish and go to run again. it will start right up and idle fine but when i go to get on plane it bogs down or dies right away. if it bogs down i can pump the ball to keep it running. then it will run for a bit then it will do it again and ill have to pump the ball, eventually it stops bogging down and runs. then when i kill it and fish then go to move i have to do it all again. i poured seafoam in and that didnt help. any ideas. thanks. the motor is a 96 evinrude 60hp tiller.

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Sucking air, fuel filter, fuel pump.

I'd begin with the sucking air and check the fuel line.

Start at the gas tank fitting, bulb, connections, and fuel line connector to outboard. Check for loose or missing hose clamps.

Next pull the cover off and check all the fuel line connections.

Those will include, connection to fuel fitting, fuel filter, fuel pump, and carb. Don't over look the impulse line from crank case to fuel pump. Its going to be tight in there so take you time and don't skip anything.

Next check the dip tube inside the gas tank. The fitting at the tank will have a tube on the end of it. There will also be a check valve at the fitting or on the end of the dip tube.

Next clean the fuel filter.

Once your certain you've gotten the above then give it a go.

If you still have problems then it would lead me to the fuel pump. Its not a cheap part so you better have eliminated the above.

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I'll add that I wouldn't use it till you get it figured out.

Even though it seems to run better at times, the symptoms should tell you your most likely running under a lean condition. The impulse line I referred to operates the air motor inside the VRO that pumps gas and OIL. Which is probably the main reason those engines become cooked.

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surface tension. i disconnected the oil injection and mix my gas. would this still be unsafe to run?

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That's not going to solve your problem... did you also disconnect the electrical portion so you don't get the alarm?

Regardless, you're still likely operating under a lean condition (and not lean gas to oil, lean gas to air) and still at risk.

marine_man

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all the connections looked solid and tight. no missing clamps.lines are in great shape. im going to replace the bulb and clean the filter tomorrow and test it. the line from the oil tank is disconnected, and it still has the no oil lite. it was like this when i bought it.

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did the hose checks. put a new filter and bulb on, and had it out today and it still did it. is there any way to test the fuel pump. a replacemt is aout 350.00. ton of money for such a small part. thanks

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If your 100% sure the lines and connections are good, (don't forget about the impulse line from crank case to pump) I'd check the dip tube and check valve on the gas tank next. The check valve can become particularly clogged causing too much restriction or the dip tube can crack. All that needs to be done before you can pressure test the fuel pump.

You can buy new diaphragms for the VRO FUEL SIDE ONLY for around $100.

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