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J. Browne

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About J. Browne

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    Jr HSOList.com Family
  • Birthday 04/20/1989

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  • Location:
    Mankato, MN
  1. The most critical step in repainting is prepping. You can have the best paint out there, but if you dont prep it right, it wont stick. Try to get the decoy as clean as possible. Get all the mud and oils off Plastics? Foam? You might have had a problem with the herters if they are plastics because herters is a laytex paint. The plastic will expand and contract, so you need a flexible paint. Acrylics work well and they are fairly cheap. Oils will also work. Rustoleum is my recommendation for the oils. Black and white are the only colors you need really. If you want some more detail, raw sienna and burnt sienna for the head. The siennas could just be bought at a local hobby store(acrylics) Americana paints are the cheapest($) acrylic paint that is going to stay. JoSonja and Goldens are other more pricey acrlyics. Prepping for plastics: Soapy bath, scrub with wire brush make sure ALL the soap off. Wire brush as much paint as possible Wipe down with acetone leave it for 5 ish minutes then lightly flash it with a torch(not too much or else the hot air will build up inside) Foamers: Rough up with low grit sandpaper. Get as much paint off as possible
  2. I wouldnt put shelves on the frame itself. I am sure you know, conduit isnt that strong, compared to steel and alum. You already have all the weight of the fastgrass or material your going to use Heres what i did with my boat. i put a shelf on the left(front view) where i put my guns shell bags and whatnot. The boat is 69" wide, so i have plenty of space to put shelves in, and still have a comfortable shooting space. its an 8 foot 3/4" pine board sealed a few times. My decoys usually stay at the bow of the boat, and corkers in custom bags. If you watch Take Em 4, Barnie goes through his boat and how he made it.
  3. Making cork dust and wood chips. CARVING As of now, since late goose ended, i have carved 9 bluebills(looking to sell) and right now making my own cork mallard rig. ( http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v62/joshbrowne/bluebillsall.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v62/joshbrowne/100_2581.jpg ) If anyones interested in attempting to carve, try out Willy McDonalds beginners kit. http://www.theduckblind.com/murphysmarkdowns.htm All the tools and materials you need. You will be addicted after 1 decoy...trust me
  4. For the floors, rubber mats work well(the ones cashiers stand on) - Man from St. Peter, MN He has some very good couplers and other hardware to make a good blind. It might be a little spendy, but his stuff is the best. I also purchased plastic netting for the back of the blind. It is VERY durable stuff compared to some stuff you will find at Home Depot and Menards. I used 1/2 inch conduit for my blinds. Holds up fairly well. Cheap. A range of $2-3 for a 10 footer. The Game fair is a good place to purchase your fastgrass and cordura if you plan on going that route.In my opinion, the original "fastgrass" is the best. The color is right. Walking down the dock on a rainy day, you can REALLY tell the fastgrass blends in near perfect compared to quick grass which was still the light tan color. Just keep the blind as low as you can, and you will be better hid
  5. If i were you, i'd take as much paint off as possible. Using a wire brush should take the shine off too. I used rustoleum on the inside of my boat and its holding up well.
  6. What did you make your layout of? If weight is a problem, make one out of foam! http://www.conservationcafe.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi/topic/49/1823.html? I layout should be fairly stable. If that guy can stand in that narrow of a boat, then laying in one 3 times wider would work great boat!
  7. went out on a short canoe ride, and seen what you call "tornado" of ducks. Guess there has been a lot of spoonies. Seen some bluebill fly over, redhead, lots of woodies and mallards few geese, about the same i usually see. in the Nicollet area
  8. Duck-O-Holic I have never touched an airbrush in my life. YET. Will have one in a few weeks. I do some hand blending, so hopefully, airbrushing will come easy for me
  9. REPAINTING plastics aren't the best decoys, obiously, but if you plan on repainting them, Do it properly so the job will last a few years. (remember paint doesnt last forever!) Prep it with a wire brush, then acetone. Flash it with a torch LIGHTLY. Paints. Remember, the plastic is flexible, it expands and contracts. You need a flexible paint. I have painted some with Herters(laytex) and they didnt stay. My suggestion is Acrylics. usually, any hobby store carries them. JoSonja, Goldens are good paints, BUT expensive. I use Americana Paints. They are $1 a tube. There are other cheap ones, but i have tried them and arent the greatest. Choosing colors. Find a picture(from a magazine) and take it to the store. Match the colors and there you go. I like the herters millinuem green for the heads. Hens, Burnt umber base coat, A tan you like for the feathers. If you have plastics, drybrushing the tan works well, highlighting the feathers. KRYLON 1311 MATTE FINISH comes in an aresol can and can be found by the spray paints. Flash this over the decoys for protection. Just a tip. The speculum(blue and white part of the wing) shows when the duck is alert, usually. I dont paint them on my decoys because i want a relaxed look
  10. are you planning on carving out of wood, or urethane? Find yourself a head mold, and 2 part urethane ( www.uscomposites.com ) and just cut the bases at different angles when its dried. The 8 or 16 lb density would be a good choice.
  11. those are some very good points. Heres a picture of a swing keel(99.9% of the time it will self right)
  12. I like a CUSTOM spread. I carve cork and some wood, and my ultimate spread will be all cork and wood. Currently, we run a 100 or so decoy spread that consists of herters and plastics. With the herters, you can paint them any way you want, and get replacement heads, that are wood or foam. The only disadvantage with plastics are 1, they dont last a lifetime +, and 2, they are all one head pose,(excluding G&H) Its hard to repaint them with the paint able to stay on for a few seasons. I like featherlite(not featherflex) decoys because they are LIGHT, compact, realistic and ride the 40 mph winds just as good as a herters. They are cheap($) and the only time it will be no longer huntable will be holes in it...paint wont come off, wont get brittle and crack over a few years etc.. Willing to pay for cork or wood decoys? I think you should judge the price with the kind of materials, how durable they are, the paint and poses. Carvers RARELY make a profit off their decoys, because they go and pay for the materials etc etc. My corks are high density cork binded with a polyurethane glue. This cork is obiously better then Dark cork. The carving isn't just a matter of cutting it out on the bandsaw and rounding it, believe me, MANY hours are put into each decoy.
  13. I like it, and i dont. I would rather hunt out of my Carstens mallard because of more room. The stealth just seems like there could be more open space. I like the dry storage and the handles. If i hunted out of it, i would sit on the side, instead of the seat and when the ducks came, i would kneel and the sissor blind would pop up(bungeed) If i am doing small potholes and jumshooting strictly, then I would use a Carstens Pintail. The stealth is nice because it can take some waves(that the pintail cant) and you are able to move it through the shallows
  14. I, dont care for reading other peoples highlight hunt, as far as the ducks comming in just perfect. I like to hear about how it came to be prior to shooting hours...if the motor wouldnt start, how you set your decoys, decoys you used.
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