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About afroman

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    HotSpotOutdoors.com Family
  • Birthday 06/28/1977
  1. how high should the top of the belt be sitting above the secondary clutch shieves or does it matter?
  2. I just installed a new 1 1/4" track on my 96 EXT 580 and it is rubbing on the tunnel protectors at the front. I have the suspension set on the lowest bolt holes and i'm not using studs ever. My heat exchangers are in the front and rear of the tunnel. The track is not hitting the heat exchangers and i realy dought that the rubber track is going to wear through the tunnel if it hits it once and a while( i don't think it will hit at all i should have about 1" of min. clearence). Any thoughts. I figured if it is possible for the rubber track to wear through the aluminum tunnel the i could install a 1/8" piece of sheet aluminum I have.
  3. the defl'n is about 2" when I push inbetween the 2 clutches. the belt rides about 1/8" to 1/4" above the secondary.
  4. I have the right belt but its a couple of years old and starting to break down. whould replacing the belt change the rpms? I understand its probably stretch over the years.
  5. I changed my gears on my 96 EXT 580 From 20/39 to 19/40. I have gained a crazy improvment in the bottom end and I understand I will lose about 4 or 5 mph off the top end but I never see that anyways. My problem is I think it now reves too high when I do wind her out (apx 9000 rpm) what do I do to change this? can I just adust something on one of the clutchs or do I need a new spring? and once this is done will i loose some of my crazy power of the start?
  6. these pics are too genreal they dont show all the optional holes i have in the sliders.
  7. I need someone to post a good quality picture of their rear suspension (96 EXT 580 ) I took it a part and i'm tired of guessing which holes the bolts go in to get it to right right again. Thanks
  8. OK sleds running and moves good but them i honk in the gas i makes a rubbery grinding noise. I thinks it the track ratchiting. my lugs inside the track are 1/2 torn off since i collapsed my suspension last year. it doesn't mack this noise when its on the stand are when i'm driving nice. My wife of course said "well then just drive slow we can't aford a new track". my reply of course was well it's going to blow off and leave me stranded some where and i will die. But she is right i check out new track prices and can't find one for less than $500 CAN. is there some thing i should watch for in a used track? Also are all 121x15 tracks with the same configuration. I noticed on my track it looks like it used to have lugs down the centre of the inside. they have been torn off(manualy or by the machine i don't know) but my rear shock is only 1/4" to 1/2" from hitting the track so lugs down the centre won't work. I was going to buy a track from a guy untill i found out it had these lugs (from a skidoo). Help I'm looking now.
  9. today i'm a happy man . you guys were right from the start it was the throtle safety switch. unplugging the three prong plug kills the engin i guess because it is also conected with the kill switch. but when i started it up disconnected the throtle lever and pressed the switch manually no bogging. so i took the switch out and saw that it comes apart. Well maybe I can clean it I thought to myself. I took it apart (slowly) and the stupid tiny springs inside went flying all over the garage. after looking for about an hour I managed to find them cleaned the switch contacts and put it back together. she works great now. I realy should have tried this from the start but my theory on how it works combined with a lack of knowlege lead to in other directions . Thanks for all the help and I hope this helps someone in the future. Now to fix the track.
  10. thanks i'll give it a try and let you know
  11. ok first of all when you are testing out your rear suspension take it off the 8" high ski dollys you made for the front end I guess this shifts a lot of extra weight to the rear. Second after greasing it take it for a ride to get the grease worked it and lubing properly. Suspension looks much better after doing this
  12. how would I be able to tell if it is and how do I adjust it or can I just disable the stupid thing and how Thanks
  13. update I started it and took her for a ride tonight. started excellent better than last year. same bogging problem thou. I found it will ride smooth once I feather the gas to get it going but only up to about 1/4 throtle at about 1/2 throtle that's when she starts spitting and backfireing. I looked at the needle jet and it is not the one listed in my book I think it is a size larger( for a ZR) and it was set on the top grove I lowered the clip to the second fromthe top(raising the needle) to try that. couldn't take it out to try it was to late don't want to [PoorWordUsage] off the wife. will give it a try tommorrow. keep the suggestions comming. hanson i think it is backfireing out of the intake side. I don't know if it too much or not enough fuel how would i tell ( I dont want to run it much with the backfiring). and yes i have the right plugs and gaps brand new. i think i might try replacing the plungers after that i think it off to the cat guy this is [PoorWordUsage]ing me off and i have spent like 2000 hours on it I just hate to give in (plus I cant realy aford to pay someone expecaly when i could fix the dam thing if I knew what was wrong). HELP
  14. already cleaned up the old mouse nests. thanks anyways.
  15. I sync'ed the carbs last year and still had the prob. I checked them this year and they both move at the same time. should I try replacing the pilot jets? I'm grasping at straws here i checked the pickup in the tank and it was clean . if it was the safty switch would that not cause it to stall completly or act up at other times? I looked at the bushings and the look OK I guess the throtle seems to move back and forth properly to hit that safty switch( I never knew thats how it worked befor this mistery). Help
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