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wastewaterguru

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About wastewaterguru

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  • Birthday 01/23/1972

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  • Location:
    Prior Lake, MN, USA

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  1. I have rebuilt my 2001 175 XR2 twice (same 2.5 L powerhead). These are pretty easy motors to work on. If the block is good and you can get away with honing and rings, then a complete rebuild is less than 800 bucks including the complete gasket set, etc. Needless to say mine no longer has oil injection.
  2. Several places in the cities can rebuild/repair starters at reasonable prices. Much cheaper than replacing.
  3. Does the flywheel turn by hand?? Remove plugs and turn flywheel and see if it feels ok. A stuck injector could have hydrolocked the motor....The starter wouldnt like trying the compress water or fuel.
  4. if you are applying choke to keep it running, then it's leaning out. You don't want to continue to run it that way very long........ The lean condition can be from lots of things..... 1. bad vent on fuel tank (vacuum locking fuel system)- try running with cap loose on tank. 2. Weak fuel pump. Does squeezing the primer bulb bring it back to life like the choke does? Does the primer bulb get hard and stay hard?? 3. Air leaks into fuel lines. 4. Air leaks into crankshaft seals 5. Fuel restriction in carburetor 6. Bad primer bulb
  5. #1 cause of ruined outboards in my mind is lack of use/neglect. The ones I see that continue to run and run are the ones that are used the most. Letting an outboard sit around too much is the worst thing you can do for one. For a used motor, I would always prefer a high hours well used and loved outboard to a sparkling 5 year old one with only 20 hours on it... and the cool thing is that you pay less for the motor with high hours anyway.
  6. Clutch dog for that unit is around $140. Seals are about 8 to 10 bucks each times 4. Worst case the reverse drive gear needs replaced as well at about $155. Everything else is labor. If it were mine, I would take it apart myself and replace the clutch dog and inspect the reverse drive gear, replace the two top seals and two bottom seals and the water pump impeller and call it done. (done it on two other motors and neither were very hard to do). Make sure before doing anything that there is no further adjustment at the top side by the shifter before tearing into the bottom end.
  7. Sounds to me like the top cylinder is simply flooding. Always rule out the fuel/air issues before chasing spark issues. Much easier to deal with.
  8. Just an FYI....."synchronizing carbs" is one of those magic voo-doo terms that marine mechanics throw out there to scare the common boat owner. Some engines require multiple vacuum gauges to synch the carbs while running the engine. But for marine carbs, the recommended method is just a visual procedure. It is a visual confirmation that the butterflies all open and close at the same time and to the same stop points. A feeler gauge, a headlight, and two screwdrivers and the average Joe can do as good a job as anyone.
  9. How many cylinders? What horsepower? How did you determine there is no spark?
  10. If you can't adjust it out with the adjustment set screws on the upper side of the linkage anymore, than you are likely due for a new clutchdog. Depending on the construction of the gearcase on your motor, this can be a pretty simple do-it-yourself job. Some gearcases split in half and make this job easy. Others require all the parts to be put in and taken out from the prop-shaft hole (much more difficult).
  11. The tach feed comes off of the voltage regulator on most outboards that I have seen. I have seen several (Mercury especially) voltage regulators where the yellow stator wires that feed the regulator show signs of overheating. Once that start to happen, you typically see the result on the tach. Regulators are designed to trickle current into the battery while running. The problem is that most boat owners have 15 accessories tied to their starting batteries. When the motor is started, the peak charging load from the partially depleted battery overheats the wires. The voltage regulator should be considered in your list of things to check. Two yellow wires from stator under flywheel feed the regulator, which sends two red voltage wires to the starter solenoid typically to charge the battery. There is a black ground and a grey tach wire that come off the regulator. So to answer your question about where the wire comes from in the engine......it comes off of the voltage regulator (grey wire). Best thing you can do for troubleshooting this is borrow a tach from someone and try it on your boat. Make sure the pole setting on the back are the same. I believe all the merc's are to be set at 6P./
  12. I would suggest the same as others posted with the exception that I would recommend doing the lower unit AFTER you are finished running the motor on muffs. If there is a bad seal, you'll just put water back in the lower unit right after you changed the gear oil.
  13. Or....the easy way. Check the lower unit now by just cracking the lower screw enough to see some oil. If it isnt white and creamy than your good. Then run the boat until it's too cold for you to run the boat. Outboards are self draining in terms of the water in the cooling passages and I have never heard of a cracked block from freezing water in an outboard. Just cycle the boat through a tilt/trim cycle once after each use so it can drain properly.
  14. Surprisingly....Yes I have. About 5 years ago I landed a vertebrae that was later determined to be from a Bison. Seeing as how there have been no Bison in the Minnesota River valley in several hundred years.......it was a rare find indeed.
  15. No responses?? Well anyway, I took the block to a local Prior Lake auto shop and they bored all three out to 0.020 over and they removed and repaired a couple broken exhaust manifold bolts and a stripped head gasked hole. New pistons are not Nissan brand but went with Wiseco replacements (dual ring on the Wiseco versus triples on the originals). Still waiting for the pistons to arrive then the machine shop will do the finish hone to match the pistons. Gasket set on order. The one thing to take away from this is that these darn Nissans are great little motors, but parts are not easy to find!!!!!!!!! So far looking like a reasonable priced rebuild. pistons $288 (including rings, circlips, wrist pins) Gasket Set and crank seals $136 Machine shop work $250 Water Pump Impeller $30 (preventative maintenance) Thermostat $24 (preventative maintenance) Custom plug for oil pump hole in block $18 (converting to premix as a preventative measure) $746 in parts and machining and of course my free labor. Downside of doing on your own is waiting for parts. This project is going to take me at least another 3 weeks to complete. It is only a day or two worth of work to reassemble.....but waiting for stuff takes time. Upside is my buddy is saving about 1500 to 1700 in labor by talking me into doing the work.
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