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-Marc V-

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About -Marc V-

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    Sr HotSpotOutdoors.com Family

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    CakeEater, MN

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  1. The oil and filter were changed when i got it out of storage this year. The oil level is in the normal range too.
  2. Yesterday in the driveway it was one long beep. Other times I believe it's been either 3 or 4 beeps. I'll try it again today. Are we able to plug these motors into a code reader like cars to get error codes? The mechanic said that's not possible but given these motors can record hours at tom intervals would think they would have error codes. Yours was even streaming water like it should?
  3. Hey guys, wondering if anyone might be able to point me in the right direction. I have the motor as stated in the subject line. As of late it's been going into limp mode after driving it for a little while. Thought it was an over heating issue at first because the alarm and limp mode would only happen after running it for a period of time. Like this morning, a buddy and I were driving across the lake, maybe a 10 minute trip, and the alarm came on and went in limp mode all the way back to the launch. It has been stuttering during acceleration. Not sure what was going on there. After we ran it this morning checking out the motor putts with stuff, we put it back in the lake. Ran alright at higher speeds, but still stuttered during acceleration and while at 3500rpm would have a stutter occasionally too. Then after running it for a while it went back down to limp mode running pretty rough and only at slow speeds. The impeller is streaming water just fine even at idle. The water coming out is only luke warm. The engine block even after running for a while is probably considered very warm to the touch but not hot. I can put my hand on it and leave it there. I have changed the thermostat as initially I thought it was an over heating issue. I've just changed the spark plugs, flushed the injectors and tested the coils, and all them seem alright. Didn't notice anything alarming. Put the muffs on in the driveway and it wouldn't go above 2k rpm and ran pretty rough at rpms above idle. Idle seemed somewhat alright. In the two seasons I've owned it I've winterized it with Marine Stabil, and have only used ethanol free/non oxygenated gas. The voltage also seems alright as when it's running the graph is showing it's producing 14.1 volts, or down to 13.9 depending how many accessories I have on. I really would rather not take it in. I was quoted $115 for the first hour of diagnostics. Anyone have any thoughts?? Serial# 1B423334 Thanks! Marc
  4. You have an aluminum or fiberglass boat, Bobby? I've considered pvc or Teflon pads like you mention, but have heard some horror stories of them wearing down and the screw heads scratching boats too. I'm a little leery...
  5. Anyone have any suggestions on a durable trailer bunk carpet to use? I put some on last year that already has worn through in a spot. I'm not too happy about it. The next stuff I want to survive a nuclear shock wave. I have a heavier Tuffy fiberglass boat. Any other suggestions for recarpetting would be appreciated too. Thinking I'll use adhesive this time too on the face of the board only just to help it stay in place some. Thanks, Marc
  6. Yep, that's what I'm referring to. The plastic deals that screw on the top of the bunks. And that's partially what I was afraid of.
  7. Just wondering what peoples experience has been to get a bigger motor to troll down slower. I have a 115hp and would like it to troll down to the 2mhp range. Right now it's getting to the 3mph range which is too fast for what I want it to do. I've considered a drift sock. I have a little 4hp Evinrude I could use as a kicker. Would change of pitch prop maybe do it? Or maybe one of those attachments to the outboard with the spring loaded flap that covers the prop at slower speeds and kicks up when pushing the boat faster? The less I have to hassle with something when I'm on the water the better. I'm leaning away from drift sock because I'd need to put it in and pull it out everytime switching spots which would be a pain run and gunning trolling walleyes once a year like we do. Thanks, Marc
  8. Does anyone have any experience in replacing carpeted bunks on your trailer with the plastic slides? I have a Tuffy Osprey 1760 and the carpet is starting to wear through on the tip of the middle two bunks. Thinking of maybe going the plastic slide route with cedar to not have to worry about it again. Read online that a guy used exterior pvc at a much cheaper price point than ordering a marine kit, but he had an aluminum boat. Not sure if that would work with a fiberglass. I'm a little hesitant to push my luck too much with fiberglass. Thanks, Marc
  9. Cool, I'll look around to have it rebuilt to see what i find. Thanks a million Marine Man and others. Appreciate it.
  10. Are rebuilds worth it? Or just better off getting a new one? Looks like they run a little over $300 for a new one for this model merc.
  11. I'm kind of baffled. My dad helped tonight, and watched a voltage meter at the starter while turning the key. The voltage at the starter he said was fine. It just clicked, or only engage the solenoid, without spinning the pinion only a couple times tonight. The greater majority of the times turning the key tonight it spun and started to turn it over like it should. Maybe it just needs to be used more often? Not sure what to do. If voltage is fine it's not the battery. Or the wire. Which sounds really odd to me, but maybe that happens more often than I know of. If it's worth just replacing the starter and being done with or not...
  12. The battery is from 2012, and a higher end blue optima battery it looks like. Might not mean much if it wasn't taken care, but was hooked up to an on-board charger. Regardless that's why I wanted to try the battery I tested the starter when it was off the motor because I know that one works. I'll check the current starting battery too. I have a chance to play with it more tonight so will keep you posted. One thing that kind of sticks in my head is the previous owner said he had an issue with his first battery not starting it right I believe, so he up'd the battery size/amperage and said it's worked fine till now. I sometimes overcomplicate things, but could the alternator in the motor be slowly killing batteries if the battery I got it with is now bad after 3 years? Just a thought.
  13. Ha! The girlfriend has been understanding with maybe some off colored smirks from time to time.
  14. It's not hard to take the starter off, even for a guy like me, but could I just swap in the battery I used to test it with off with the starter on ( since it's already back on) to see if it works then too? I'm a wanna be mechanic with some simple skills so hoping that would work. Guess it wouldn't test the starter when it's not on a load, but just thought it might be a little easier to switch the batteries.
  15. That's what I was thinking too that the alternator would keep the starting battery pretty full for the most part so when charging on the bank charger it wouldn't take long for the starting battery to top off and for the combiner to change over to the accesory battery. Any suggestions on a combiner? I didn't really dig into them too much yet to get my head wrapped around them. Was kind of maybe a little wishful thinking that it'd even work in the first place. Would kind of like a combiner that would be good for gel/agm batteries too, if it matters, if I decide to go that route in the future. Always planning ahead. 😜 Thanks much Marine Man!
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