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Trick1441 last won the day on August 3 2018

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About Trick1441

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    Tyler Rick
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  1. I would look at the camera you would want and add the proper wire for that. Most new cameras have hdmi out I believe. I wired our house with two hdmi ports for cameras. You can get long hdmi cables for pretty cheap online. Also bought little adapters and mounted to the right bench and one up front. They both run to the tv. You could do a 12V outlet near the area as well depending on how your camera is powered. I would get a forced air furnace if you are planning on sleeping in it. Ventless heaters are not safe in my opinion unless you leave a window open. I would definitely insulate it well. If you cut corners on insulation you will pay for it in propane in the long run. Depending on your ceiling height I would go with a full size 12v ceiling fan. They are nice to have and are not too expensive. We have recessed puck led lights from superbrightled.com they are a little pricey but I like them. They have similar options on amazon that are much cheaper. Porch lights were from super bright as well.
  2. I really don’t think there will be any condensation at at all. You would pretty much need to hook your pex up to a chiller to get condensation. Think about when pipes sweat in your house. It is always the incoming cold water that sweats and only on really hot humid days. Hot water pipes don’t sweat since they are above the dew point. Also the humidity in the air in the winter is very low. I would run the grid over the whole floor then put the pex in the areas that are not covered by benches and stuff then put the vinyl plank over the whole floor. No need to leave any areas for venting or anything like that.
  3. I don’t think condensation would be an issue since you would need warm moist air hitting your cold pex. You’ll have cold air hitting cold pex and there really shouldn’t be any condensation. Are you saying you are just going to run your pex under benches and bunks? When I was looking into it everything I read said to keep the areas under cabinets and stuff like that free of tubing so I’m not sure if there would be any issues with that. I just kind of followed the guidelines I read. I would try and find a pex tubing that has more of spippery coating on the outside. I know the menards pex type A has a sticky oxygen barrier coating in the outside and it squeaks when it expands and contracts and rubs against things. I think the Pex AL has a smoother coating on the outside.
  4. Well we didn’t get our fish house done in time to bring it out on the lake but we did test it in the driveway and it was like -10 out. The furnace ran for maybe 10-15 min and once it got up to 68 the furnace maybe kicked on one more cycle then it never came on again. I don’t remember exactly. But our house was also up off the ground a foot and a half with no banking or anything and the in floor heat kept up. I don’t think using smaller diameter pex would gain you much of anything. Even with 1/2” you can get really close Center’s if you plan everything out well. Down the main part of ours I think we have about 4” centers and that is closer than the usual 6 or 8. The bigger the pex the more space you can have. Different size pipe can only flow so much so you’d have to look into that and run some numbers. I used the aluminum because I was following liprippers build but I wouldn’t change what I did. The aluminum to me serves two purposes it transfers the heat from the pex and spreads it out across the sheet. Fish house in floor heat and normal in floor heat are a little different. In a normal house there is usually a large thermal mass that takes a long time to heat up but once it’s warm it usually stays warm. I also think it does a great job dispersing weight so the pink foam board doesn’t compress over time. It also serves as a barrier between the pex and the floor so nothing can poke into the pex and cause a leak . I understand what the guy was saying but I don’t want to say yeah go for it without aluminum without really knowing what would happen. Maybe if you were doing a vinyl plank for a floor it would be different than rubber coin floor but I’m not sure. Maybe lipripper can give his opinion on this.
  5. I definitely think it would work but it would still take a little bit of time to get up to temp unless you turned it on before you got there. But our furnace only stayed on for a little and only one cycle before the in floor heat caught up
  6. Thanks! I looked into that motor from your build and couldn’t find much info on the motor. To me it looked like it ran off of 110v and we were looking for something we could use with the battery. Does yours run off of 110V or 12V? The motors work great just running at different speeds. I think we are going to just flip them 180 degrees and try and run a single shaft between them I think it will work.
  7. Thanks! We weren’t sure about any of the colors but I think it turned out pretty close to what we had envisioned. Thank you! I wouldn’t say it was easy, but for the most part it wasn’t too bad. It just felt like it was taking longer than we thought but we would have rather had that than not like something once we were done. Thank you, couldn’t have done it without people like lipripper and others posting their builds and answering questions. I honestly would have went bigger if we could have. That was the only spot we could think of where you could see the tv from every spot, and that’s about as big of a tv as we could fit there. I always like seeing how other fish houses are laid out, most of them are not that great and I haven’t seen any new layouts that would work better. Thank you, your builds were a ton of help and an inspiration. All the materials add up quick but in the end I think it’s worth it.
  8. Yeah we brought it up to our cabin and sleep in it if there are a bunch of people up there. Thanks!
  9. Thanks! It weighed in over what I thought which was disappointing. It was right around 7000 lbs with full propane tanks and some other stuff in it. We actually weighed it just after getting spray foamed and it was already at like 5000 lbs I’m not sure how others that did the same style steel stud house have a finished weight around 5500 lbs. The cost in materials was above 20K but below 25 still too scared to finish adding the receipts. We really tried to use the best materials we could find and not cut any corners. When I was pricing stuff out before we started my ballpark was 19K but I forgot to add a tv screws wire and little stuff like that. Yeah it took a lot of time but I enjoyed it for the most part. I’m actually getting kind of bored now and don’t know what to do with all the free time.
  10. Alright here’s the finished product. I think it turned out pretty nice. Still need a stove/ range but working on it. Underneath the lift bed there are 7 lights and two speakers. There are 4 lights above the lift bed. The 3 middle lights underneath are on one button the outer 4 are on a different button and above are on a separate button. 55” smart tv recessed into to wall. The speakers really kick out some sound in this thing though. The tv sound comes out of the 5 speakers in the house which are all ran through the stereo and an amp. Hole lights Single light above the stove area This door is for the satellite receiver. The black center piece is tinted acrylic so you can still use the remote with the door shut. The hole just below the tv is also so you can use the tv remote. Battery monitor Supply and return water temperatures for the in floor heat. I was actually really surprised I got my 20 degree delta t I calculated for. Lights above lift bed. Lift bed in lowest position. Could go lower but that’s just where we put the lowest at. Different height if people are sleeping below. Folding table. These are the cabinets inside the bathroom wall. These are only about 9” deep but I think they will be deep enough for a little more storage. The converter is in here as well it is just above the wiring panel. And the large center square is a false front so you can access the tv wires. I think we are going to go with the dry flush toilet. I put a little 12 v outlet in there so it can br ran off the house batteries. The only other thing I did that i don’t know if others have done is I wired the rear porch light to the reverse wire of the trailer plug. So when you put the truck in revers that porch light comes on and lights everything up. I think that’s everything. Feel free to ask any questions if you have any. And thanks again to lipripper and others for posting their builds the information was a ton of help and sorry if I copied too much of your design.
  11. Next we made the back benches that our couches sit on. These things are very comfortable. The couches are the same ones they use in the firebrand fish houses. Matt from fish n style ordered them for us. Both fold out to be beds. We also bought a 4” thick piece of foam that can go over the whole thing to make one bed when it’s used for camping. Under each couch we made drawers. I figured it would be a pain to have to lay on the ground and open some doors to get something. They actually can hold a ton of stuff. Both rear couches have the drawers. Next we started working on our cabinets above the wheel wells. The two inside openings have doors and the outer two are soft close drawers. We then made some countertops. They were actually really easy to make. For our our upper bunk in the back we wanted it to be a lift bed. We did similar to what lip ripper did without the strut trolly things. We used some plastic that just keeps the bed within the strut. For our unistrut we found some super light aluminum strut that worked great. We are going to make a black cover to go over the foam. inside the bed looks like this. We have two motors inside the bed. One motor runs one side and the other runs the other. So basically the motor is in the middle and two cables come off of the wheel going opposite directions. Each cable goes around a pulley so now they are both heading for the wall. Once they get to the edge of the bed there is another pulley that directs the cable up towards the ceiling. On top of the strut we have a bolt that the cable is connected to. Each side does this. And the motors are wired together and are ran by a switch. We have holes drilled at different heights on the strut for pins to go through and the bed then rests on the pins. The motors were kind of pulling the bed up at different speeds so we contacted the motor company and they said thar getting two motors to go exactly the same speed without spending a ton of money is very hard to do. So we are going to try and either find one motor to somehow control all four sides or somehow connect the two motors with a shaft. But it does go up and down just one side ends up being about an inch higher once you get to the top. Next up finished pictures.
  12. The house is done I’m just slowly putting pictures up and describing it. Next thing we did was have it spray foamed. Which was a nightmare we went with the cheaper guy which was a mistake. I would not recommend American Spray foam which is who we used. After it was spray foamed we started the in floor heat similar to liprippers 2017 build. We put down 2 layers of 3/4” 250 pink foam board. In the top layer we used a router to make a groove where we wanted our pex to go worked out pretty slick. Next we put down as many heat transfer plates as we could. We used these little pex clips that got screwed into the plywood to hold the pex down around bends and a few straight places. Next we Pushed the pex into the heat transfer plates and the clips. We did ours with one zone that was around 120’ of pex. I took a bunch of pictures of where all the pex ran with the tape measure showing how far away each line was from walls and stuff so We didn’t screw into it accidentally We then put a layer of aluminum over all the pex. We then stained all our pine tongue and groove. We used Jacobean then went over it with grey for a little different look. I think it turned out pretty good. For the trim pieces and cabinets we used special walnut. After the pine was stained we started nailing it to the furring strips. For the window casings we used cedar in case there was any condensation. For the window trim we used pine. Once we got to this point I was a little nervous thinking our stain looked like something you’d see in your grandparents house but we kept going. All these wires are for the lights and speakers we put in the lift bed. We kind of installed lights and other things as we went. Soms of the tongue and groove pine looked really cool and unique when we were staining and we set those aside and used them on the front wall. We thought about doing some fake stone looking stuff but we were feeling the time crunch. Next we started making some upper cabinets and finishing the window casings and trim. We’ve never done any of this so we were just kind of learning as we went. Once we got the upper cabinets made we screwed them in place. next we put up the backer for the tv. We used 3/4” pine I think they were 10” wide. Wasn’t exactly sure which tv we were getting and they all vary a bit in size so we stained it in case you could see behind it. Oh I forgot we also put the rubber coin floor down. We purchased it from garage floor LLC. The first roll they sent took like a month to get and it was the wrong floor but after I told them I needed the right floor right away they had the new roll on the doorstep the next day which was surprising. The floor got screwed down under cabinets and where the hole covers went. But by the time we got to the floor it was cold already and new we would have to figure something out in the summer when it got hot and expanded. So this summer when it was good and hot we pulled the edges of the floor tight and used some left over VHB tape which actually worked to keep it tight. After the floor was done we started piping the in floor heat. We accidentally broke the insulation around the water heater which is why it’s taped. We put some unions off of the pump in case it fails. We use the furnace to get the house up to temp while the floor is heating up but once everything is up and running the furnace never kicks on. I was trying to figure out how I wanted to control the system and was trying to ask lipripper questions but he has a patent on his so he couldn’t really answer. What I ended up doing was running 5v from the arduino board to the thermostat. I then ran a wire from the thermostat to my relay board. The relay board I am using closes the circuit when it gets 5 volts. So when the thermostat calls for heat 5 volts is allowed to pass through the thermostat back to the relay board closing the circuit that I have wired to the hydronic pump. You could use any relay for this just have to pick the voltages that you have available in your fish house. So I’m not really sure how lipripper did his but that is how I did mine and it works. The whole in floor heat system fits under the front couch. I call this the mechanical room since all the moving parts are under this couch. We have the hydronic system, the hydraulic pump to raise and lower the fish house and our batteries. Only have the one battery in this picture but we have one battery for our hydraulics and two 6v gold cart batteries wires in series for everything else. The two 6v batteries are charged by the converter and the single battery is charged by a one bank minnkota on board charger.
  13. Next up was installing the floor. We went with 3/4” marine grade plywood. I also coated both sides and all edges with a water sealer just to be sure. After installing the plywood floor we put the furring strips in and ran the wiring. Each wire goes back the front wall where I made a little panel. The front wall has an opening for a 55” TV that sits flush in the wall. The little squares above and below the tv opening are for in wall speakers. This is half of the wires the other side of the panel has the other half. This is all the positive wires coming through the front wall and behind the panel. I forgot to take a picture of the back of the panel after I cleaned it up and put the negative wires through. Here is a picture of the front of the panel while I was booking everything up. All the positive wires on the left and negative on the right. My wiring is a lot different than most shacks. I’ve never made a panel like this before so I didn’t really know what to order. The terminals that the wires go into are called din rail terminal blocks the snap onto a little piece of aluminum called a din rail. Later I found stackable ones that would have saved space but I like how it turned out. Each terminal block has a slot in it where you can put a jumper. So everything that was going to be on one switch would be jumpered together. Things on a different switch would be jumpered and so on. The terminal blocks have a hole on the top where one wire comes in and gets screwed down to hold it and there is the same on the bottom. So once the terminal blocks are jumpered to things you want on the same switch you only need one wire out the bottom. Things that were ran off of the switch went out the bottom and over to the relay board. You do the same for each thing you want to run off a different switch just run a wire to a different relay. The long green rectangle thing on the right is a relay board. Our house has 12 light switches not all of them are used yet but they can be so I bought a relay board with 12 spdt relays. The green square on the left is an arduino which is basically like a mini computer chip that you can program. I’ll explain more once I get to what our switches look like. The bottom right of the panel is for the trailer lights and brakes and all the stuff that hooks up to the truck. I eventually replaced these normal terminal blocks with the din rail style. Here is the wiring panel all finished up. The reason for using all the relays and arduino was so I could use this light switch and eventually be able to control everything from a smart phone. In the fish house we have 2 of these switches which each have 6 buttons on them. Each switch has a set of cat 5 cable running to it. One set is connected to the atduino board and sends a signal saying the button was pressed. The other cat 5 wire is to send a signal to turn on and off a little light next to the button when it is pressed Here is the back of the switch. So basically how it works is the arduino has pins on it that can send or receive signals it also has pins that can send 5 vdc or 3vdc. So one wire from the arduinos 5 v pin hooks up to the back of the switch where it says sc (switch common 5v coming in). A different wire connects a different arduino 5 v pin to the terminal that says pc (pilot common which is just the little lights next to the buttons). So when a button is pressed a brief 5 v signal is sent from the arduino to the switch which goes through board on the switch and to the wire terminal that is for that button the signal is then sent back to a digital pin (receiving pin) of the arduino on a digital pin. The arduino has to be programmed to receive different signals on the pins you want. Once the arduino sees that a button was pressed it sends a signal over to the relay board saying a button was pressed close the relay that corresponds to that button. When the relay closes it allows the 12v to go to whatever you want to turn on. The nice thing about how this system works is everything can be changed in a matter of minutes. Say I wanted to have the ceiling lights be on button 4 instead of 1 you just have to change a couple of numbers in the code and plug the arduino into your computer and upload the updated code. I’m sure I lost most people right away and I’m not sure if anyone else would even want to do something similar but If so you can message me and I can try and explain it better. Before this I’ve never done anything like this so I had to learn all of this online and how to write little bits of code and do all that which was fun but also frustrating at times since I didn’t have anyone to go to with my questions. Not sure If this video will work or not. 4B8EE058-806B-4BF6-8DD8-8FC76BE46BD0.MOV
  14. We are still going to put a piece along the bottom but I’m not a fan of diamond plate so we are going to try some annondized aluminum. We were going to get some decals for the side but I was starting to like the plain look so we just went with some small things for now. I think that about wraps up the outside and I think I have to quit for the night people weren’t kidding when they say writing these up takes awhile. I’ll post the inside stuff tomorrow.
  15. Next up was prepping the studs for the VHB tape. I scratched up each stud with a fine wire wheel attached to a drill then wiped clean with isopropyl. We went with 1/2” VHB tape since we got it for next to nothing. Around the windows and some other areas we did two strips of tape to cover the whole stud but most of the studs that were just getting sheeting we did one strip. I would recommend the 1” though it would be a lot faster. people are not kidding when they say there are no second chance. The corner piece that is sitting inside had to be kicked off and we never even pressed on it. Good thing we had one extra sheet but no more mistakes could happen after that. The place we were working at had a bender we could use to get our corner bends which worked out great. The windows are from menards. I custom ordered them which turned out to be cheaper than buying the stock jeldwen ones which didn’t come in the sizes we wanted. The first shipment of windows came in and when I went to pick them up two of the 4 had cracked glass and the guy working goes “so you don’t want these?” I was like no I don’t want a broken window. So we had to go and re order new ones. Two weeks go by and I realized I never got an email confirming my order so I went back in to check on the status of my order and the guy said they never got reordered. At this point I almost lost hope in all of humanity but tried to stay calm. Finally got all the windows installed and the siding put on. We wanted to try and do rounded wheel well so the picture above is prior to trimming the edges. We tried using the 1/4” HDPE plastic sheets which looked pretty good. The next day when the sun hit that wheel well it expanded out about 3”. I wanted to screw it down and see if that helped control where it expanded but my brother wanted to scrap that idea. We ended up just using some steel sheeting and welded it up. All the corners and seems where water could get in was welded and then the whole wheel well was welded to the wall studs and a little bit of the frame. Since the wheel well sees a lot of snow and salt we wanted it to be durable. The Berliner stuff you can buy usually doesn’t hold up so we brought it to a guy and had it sprayed. He said it should last forever and if we ever have any issues just bring it in and they will fix if. I think they turned out pretty good and I think the rounded look is just something different than the traditional square wheel well. Our door came from FishnStyle in shakopee, they sell firebrand so this is the same door they use. It’s made by a company called challenger doors. We cut a piece of aluminum sheeting so it would fit perfectly over the white color it came with. We used the thin VHB seam tape to attach the aluminum sheet to the white aluminum skin of the door. Only other thing we had to do was cut our a small hole so the door handle could go through. The whole door is held on by VHB tape and I also threw in a couple of stainless self tappers since the door came with pre-drilled holes. For the roof we did a one piece aluminum roof held on by VHB tape. I guess I didn’t take a picture of that but we got it from a local semi trailer repair company in Blaine for a couple hundred bucks The roof trim is 3”x1/4” aluminum flat stock and the trailer lights are mounted to that.
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