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About Graywolf

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    IceLeaders.com Family
  • Birthday 01/01/1951

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  • Location:
    Bismarck, ND
  1. Leaving today's gasoline in engine all summer is not a good idea. The heat makes the gas evaoprate and the residue (varnish as some call it) starts to congeal. You now know how much that costs to remedy. If possible, store engine someplace where the temperature won't get very hot in summertime. The difference in temp from winter and summer dries up the diaphram in the carb. The greater the temp difference, the sooner you are going to need a "carb kit install (better know as tune up). Do a "Google" search for "gas stabilizer". A LOT of good reading. Following is from just one site and is the method I personally use: Prepare The Engine (2 Cycle) Add fuel stabilizer to fuel tank and run engine for five minutes (use either Sta-Bil or SeaFoam) Drain balance of fuel from fuel tank Start engine and run until the fuel in system is used up Remove spark plug and put 1 tablespoon of oil onto of cylinder and crank engine over by hand to distribute oil, coating cylinder walls Install a fresh spark plug Next season when you wish to put back in service, simply install fresh fuel mix and restart the engine. It will be normal for the engine to smoke for the first few minutes as the lubricating oil in the cylinder is burned up. Sorry for the lengthy post but ice auger engines are getting very expensive. Treated right, they will last longer than you.
  2. I don't believe I am stepping on any toes here as I have not seen the St Croix Legend rods advertised anyplace on FM. I just saw three of these rods with the spring bobber at a local sporting goods store. I am buying one and the other two are for sale for $29.95 + tax. These are new in the round plastic package. One Lite and one Med Lite. If anyone is interested.....? $30 + $1.80 + actual shipping. Not making a penny on this. That was fast. Both gone to local ND boys. If they don't buy them by noon tomorrow, I would again offer them. Hint store starts with letter "S"
  3. IFFWalleyes has hit it right on the nose. We sold these when they first came out and EVERY ONE was returned except the ones on the bottom of the lake still attached to the flighting. A spring would break and unless the ice was shallow it was almost impossible to pull your auger out of the hole. If you could reach in the cold water (with all the sharp edges that your numb hands couldn't feel) and manually retract it, then the auger could be removed and we saw the customer the next day returning the item. Do NOT even THINK of buying one of these.
  4. Hunting, I have the address, prices, telephone number. Your private messages are disabled. Contact me if you want the information.
  5. You should have pumped the necessary number of times and locked (pushed in and turned) the pumping plunger BEFORE you try to light the lantern. I am referring to the "Brightness" valve that allows the fuel to flow to the mantel. Have a source of ignition there BEFORE you open the gas control valve (brightness control).
  6. klbowe, When using the liquid fuel (Coleman)lantern, if you open the valve first and then try to light it, enough gas vapors will fill the globe to flare up when it finally lights. Put a match or operate the striker before and while opening the valve. It will ignite much sooner and you won't have as bad of a "flare up".
  7. Just a few items of information about the Niles Master and the Eskimo Shark. There are no current places in the Midwest where you can obtain replacement Niles heads except the factory. An exchanged 8" head is $34.95 plus you pay shipping both ways (about $5-$6 each way). If you fish where sand or other debris are a danger, it might get expensive. Last year at the MN ice show I bought an 8" Niles power with the handle for early ice. Mine and ALL the other Niles sold at that show were returned because it would stall out just as you went through the ice. According to the US rep "the heads were a bad batch and no longer a problem". I have OWNED and used a Strikemaster Lazer, Eskimo Shark, and an older 3hp Jiffy. Currently I use a Tanaka 36cc power head with a Strikemaster Lazer auger (11,000+ rpm). Niles has been making augers a long time and mistakes happen. Hard to swallow at $465. Weather permitting, I will again purchase a Niles Master at the ice show, BUT, it will for sure have a money back guarantee if the same problem exists. VERY well built product. Eskimo Shark was a cutting fool, just didnt like the extra handle. I looked at the new Sharks out at Gander Mt. Didn't see anyplace on the powerhead that said "Made in Italy". Possible that it is built in an Asian country?? Last years Shark wound out to 11,000 RPM, this years is listed at 8,000?? Placement of on-off switch is very flimsy. S000000, which one, well I really liked the Niles and will bite again. But the Tanaka/Strikemaster combo is ready to go just in case. The Eskimo Quantum blades are not hard to touch up with a file, but the Turbo blades are just like the Strikemaster Lazer, (even interchangable) and need to be sent back for exchange when dull. Just one point, Eskimo charges $5 for sharpening (either style) plus shipping. Strikemaster is $22.95 plus shipping. I know because I just exchanged a set about a month ago.
  8. I KNOW I am going to get heckled about this, but they did the same to Orville and Wilbur. Pickled herring in a jar from supermarket. Go ahead and laugh but I am catching pike.
  9. Pulsar, Do you know WHAT brand of engine is on the StingRay? It doesn't say on their webpage. Parts or service on an "odd" brand might be something you want to consider. I can tell you from experience that 1.2 hp is not a lot of torque. I agree with Ray, pay the extra $50 and get the Barracuda. Richard
  10. The company that made those no longer lists them on their web site. Must be a reason. One thing to think about, you must run your auger a pretty good speed for it to "ream" the cone. YOU WILL GET WET with the water that your flighting throws at you at that speed. Remember, you are already through the ice and the hole is full of water up to the top.
  11. Graywolf

    ice scoop

    Lets take anything metal or plastic that has a hinge in it and a moving piece that closes in use. Now dip it in water and then stand it outside in freezing or even better sub-zero temperatures? Does the phrase "Freeze Up" ring a bell. Buy a Big Dipper that is light, floats, and almost indestructable and a heck of a lot cheaper.
  12. FootDoc I can tell you there are not very many vehicles in Northern Minn, ND, Mont, Wis that do NOT have a frost plug heater or tank heater. They just come with them or the dealer puts them in. Don't know what it would cost you for a frost plug heater, but at -20F your vehicle is going to start MUCH better. Most motels have electrical plug-ins for these heaters. It is just an accepted fact of life here. Oil dipstick heaters are a joke.
  13. Reel Inn, Do you know why SD and ND do not have "professional" football teams? Because then Minnesota would want one too.
  14. For Sale: NEW in the box, never used, Eskimo Shark Ice Auger. Ten (10") inch flighting with dual Quantum blades. For better description and picture go to: http://www.ardisam.com/Eskimo/Shark.htm This is the new red color model (9403S10) with replaceable center point. $350 That is about $95 less than at a spt goods store (including tax you would have to pay) Will be going to Mpls next week and could meet anyone on I94 between Bismarck and Minneapolis.
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