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About GunDr

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  • Location:
    Backus, MN, USA
  1. Was hoping to head up soon. Are the rumors true that Clearwater & Pipestone piled with snow and slush? I hate digging out buries sleds.
  2. My shop is just south of Backus, along 371, but I've never bear hunted here in MN. I did bait for my bride one year, up around the Foothills, but were unsuccessful.
  3. Not sure about the prop torque thing, could be true, but this is what I was told about "us" and "them" when comes to driving on the "right" side of the road. Apparently, passing on the left goes way back to the days of carrying a sword in Europe. Because most soldiers were right-handed, they carried their swords on their left hip. When approaching an adversary, passing them on the left allowed them to draw the sword with their right hand and commence to fighting. With the coming of firearms here in the early USA, again most were right-handed, but instead of a sword they carried their muzzleloader. Because many of these rifles were quite long, the gun would lay across the rider's lap, with the muzzle facing to the left. This allowed the rider to control the lock and trigger with their dominate right hand. To make this efficient, the riders would pass on the right side. So, I guess the US was better at adpting to change than the Brits.
  4. $76 for any type of primer per thousand is price gouging. I checked with a distributor of mine last Friday. I was looking into getting primers for a few shooters at my club, and splitting my costs 7 ways. Primers, shipping, haz-mat fee, and sales tax, brought the final price of 35k primers to $34 per thousand. Now if a dealer were to mark them up 20%, that would put them at $41. The only primers that were over $30(dealer costs) were Remington shotgun primers. Winch's were $29, and Fed's were $28. They had all the shotgun primers I wanted, but were limited to the number of rifle and pistol primers.
  5. I have a friend that has a place on the shores of Clearwater. I think my next trip is on Mother's day weekend. We like to rent an outpost camp on the far north end of Pipestone during the early trout. My buddy and I prefer there still be a few icy spots....end of April or the very first part of May. Mother's Day gets a little late for us. We like to fish for lakers from the shore with frozen ciscos and sit back and play cards, eat shore-lunches, and discuss how we would solve the World's problems(haha). Because we have between 6-8 guys this year, scheduling everyone's time off, we ended up with this weekend.
  6. This will be my 14th year going to Clearwater-Pipestone. I try to make at least three trips a year...Jan, May, Oct. (4.5 hour drive for me). One year I went 6 times, Clearwater was a tough lake to figure out, but now fish it almost exclusively. We do take a few day trips up Pipestone, and to the lower end..Jackfish. I've landed a few muskies over 30lbs, one walleye at 12lbs and many 8-10 lbs, and several pike at 18-20 lbs on Clearwater. The most amazing sight I saw one year was an early spring trout trip on the far end of Pipestone (Shistole Lake). The walleyes were in full spawning mode. They were laying around like suckers in a creek. At night, the spot light would light up their eyes like thousands of reflectors. Since I was a little tike, my dad would take me to Vermillion Bay (Eagle Lake), we then got into bear hunting and hunted out of Redditt (north of Kenora) and fish the English river and surrounding lakes. The Clearwater-Pipestone chain has them both beat. Another nice thing about the chain is that if bad weather comes in and catches you, there's plenty of sheltered bays for safety. I love it there and look forward to every trip. Doug
  7. I was going to head up on Wednesday, but spoke with your neighbor Cory W., and he said not to come up. Too much smow and lots of slush.
  8. It's suppose to get very cold again for the next few days. How the slush on Off Lake?
  9. If you do look into having the metal refinished, look into having a polymer teflon coating done. It will look exactly like your original finish, but resists moisture, blood, etc. The cost is about the same as rebluing.
  10. For what purpose would it be to have a shotgun in your name?? A firearm trace by any LEA is a click on a computer, but that will only get information to the original receiver of the firearm from the manufacturer. From there, it's all leg work (or phone calls) to the dealer that sold the gun. From there, no paper work is needed for a private individual to sell to another. Many firearms have passed through 20-30 hands. As long as each individual kept, for his own records, the new owners info, the trail ends. With that being said, if you must have some kind of record of ownership, the only route is through the federal process of purchasing a firearm. Here's how it would work... 1)You would have to transfer your firearm to a licensed dealer. This dealer then would "sell" or tranfer this firearm back to you. 2) This transfer back to you will require a NICS (criminal back-ground ) check. You will also need to fill out a 4473. This form is a Federal form in which you supply all the information on yourself. 3) Once the 4473 form and NICS check are completed, the dealer now can transfer the firearm to you. Just a note....the dealer will charge you for this service, maybe $25-$50. You will be using his time. Now that you have taken possession, the Feds and the dealer will know you are not a crook. Under Federal law, the NICS info is "suppose to be destoyed on the Federal end"....highly unlikely. As for a record of your ownership, only the dealer making the transaction will have it. He will retain the original 4473 form and also keep a record of it in his acquisition and deposition book (federally mandated record book.
  11. That "stop action lock" is called the action bar lock. This is part of a "safety assy". If the bolt does not fully close, the action bar lock will not rotate up behind the action bar. Because it cannot rotate up, it disconnects the trigger from the sear, preventing the gun from firing. If your gun was not locking, and you were able to pull the trigger and have the hammer drop....that was not good. By making the statement,"It's not a perfect fix, but if I make sure the stop action lock kicks out when I engage a shell I will be good to go", does not tell me it was corrected. If indeed the bbl was fitting incorrectly, you should send it to Remington and they will replace it. Unless there are now file marks on it. Shooting your gun without having the bolt in full "battery", is the same as shooting a bolt action gun with the bolt half engaged. It will not only cause premature wear, but could cause some damage or injury. You should never have to check to see if the bar lock has engaged. I would have the 'smith look it over again, or find another and get a second opinion. Have the second gunsmith drop his headspace gauges into the chamber to be sure things are to spec. Doug
  12. While reloading shotgun shells, the full ones roll off the reloader into a bucket. On 2 occassions (in 25yrs) I had one go off. The pellets just bounced off my arm and the plastic hull was bulged.
  13. Superbee, How's Pipestone looking, especially the west arm? The boys up there were begging for us to come last week...saying the ice was out. I don't think so!!! Leech Lake(MN) still was iced up. I thnk they just were looking for card players, and were willing to play our whole waking hours!!
  14. I'll tell ya in a week!!! How's the slush on Pipestone and Off Lake. I like those crappies as much as the lakers.
  15. GunDr

    Rust on my barrel?

    You can use 0000 or 00000 steel wool and oil. The steel wool will be soft enough and fine enough NOT to cause any scratches, and if you don't go too crazy, it will not remove the existing bluing. Once rust has started, a pit will be formed. Catching it early enough will keep the pit very shallow. Also, where ever there was rust, the bluing will be gone. DO NOT EVER use any type of rust remover on a gun. The bluing that's on your firearm IS a chemically control rusting process. The other term that is used to describe bluing is called "black oxide". Because rust removers are used to remove oxidation (iron oxide) it will also remove the bluing just as fast. So that little spot of rust becomes a much larger blemish on the steel. No amount of "cold blue" will match the original. I see a couple of guns each year that shooters have used Navel Jell to remove rust, only to have "white" fingerprints all over the gun. After the steel wool, keep a coat of oil on the metal, and always wipe the gun after handling. Lastly, if at all possible, do not store you gun in a case, unless you're absolutely sure the gun is dry and oiled, as well as the case is dry.
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